Numerical Simulation of Multi-Directional Random Seas

Multi-directional irregular waves are simulated on the basis of the given directional spectrum using a double summation model, a single direction per frequency model and a single summation model. Their results are compared. It is shown that the single direction per frequency model proposed in this paper can generate a realistic wave field. The effects of the model parameters on the simulated results are also studied in this paper and corresponding suggestions are given.     

Overtopping Discharge of Wind-Waves on Simple Slope Dikes

An empirical formula for estimating the overtopping discharge of wind-waves on a smooth-impermeable-simple slope dyke is derived through model tests in this paper, it can be adopted by related design departments in the determination of the crest elevation of the dyke.     

中国多金属结核开辟区间隙水中铜、锰、镍的分布规律

通过对东北太平洋海域中国多金属结核开辟区沉积物间隙水中铜、锰、镍等微量元素的详细研究表明,锰主要受沉积环境的影响,其含量的变化范围在0.16～8.61μg/dm3之间;铜和镍则主要与表层海水的初级生产力有关,研究区内间隙水中铜和镍含量的变化范围分别为0.16～20.8和0.80～3.12μg/dm3,且这些元素在沉积物—水界面处均存在最大浓度梯度.利用“Fick扩散定律”计算表明,锰在研究区主要是从上覆海水向沉积物扩散,是沉积物中锰的主要来源之一;而铜和镍则是从沉积物向上覆海水扩散,是底层海水中铜和镍的主要来源。与表层海水中铜和镍向底层海水的输送通量计算结果相比,底层海水中铜和镍的含量主要受沉积物的控制.     

Computation of Viscous Uniform and Shear Flow over A Circular Cylinder by A Finite Element Method

The incompressible viscous uniform and shear flow past a circular cylinder is studied. The two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations are solved by a finite element method. The governing equations are discretized by a weighted residual method in space. The stable three-step scheme is applied to the momentum equations in the time integration. The numerical model is firstly applied to the computation of the lid-driven cavity flow for its validation. The computed results agree well with the measured data and other numerical results. Then, it is used to simulate the viscous uniform and shear flow over a circular cylinder for Reynolds numbers from lO0 to lO00. The transient time interval before the vortex shedding occurs is shortened considerably by introduction of artificial perturbation. The computed Strouhal number, drag and lift coefficients agree well with the experimental data. The computation shows that the finite element model can be successfully applied to the viscous flow problem.     

Fatigue Behavior of Plain Concrete Under Biaxial Compression: Experiments and Theoretical Model

The effects of different lateral confinement stress on the fatigue behavior of and cumulative damage to plain concrete are investigated experimentally. Eighty 100 mm x 100 mm x 100 mm specimens of ordinary strength concrete are tested under constant- or variable-amplitude fatigue loading and lateral confinement pressure in two orthogonal directions. A fatigue equation is developed by modifying the classical Aas-Jakobsen S-N equation for taking into account the effect of the confined stress on fatigue strength of plain concrete. The results of variable-amplitude fatigue tests indicate that the linear damage theory proposed by Palmgren and Miner is unreasonable in the biaxial stress state. A nonlinear cumulative damage model that could model the effects of the magnitude and sequence of variable-amplitude fatigue loading and lateral confinement pressure is proposed on the basis of the evolution laws of the residual strains in the longitudinal direction during fatigue tests. The residual fatigue life predic     

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves

The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.     

Influence of Approach Channel on Wave Propagation with Varying Incident Angles

- The variation of the amplitude of waves with varying incident angles when waves propagate through a typical approach channel is discussed by a numerical calculation method, the result of which shows that the influence of the channel on wave propagation is obvious. When the wave propagation direction is in coincidence with the channel axis, the wave amplitude ratio will decrease with the increase of propagation distance. When the incident angle is 15 - 30 , there appears an area of larger wave amplitude ratio on the side slope facing the waves, but at the another side, the wave amplitude ratio is generally small, indicating that the channel has a shielding effect. When waves propagate across the channel perpendicularly, the wave amplitude ratio can be calculated with the shallow water coefficient.     

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.