The synchronous coupling of a third-generation wave model and a two-dimensional storm surge model

The interaction of waves and currents is studied by the dynamical coupling of a third generation wave model and a two-dimensional storm surge model. The coupling process of the two models is implemented synchronously. To estimate the effects of waves on the generation of storm surges, the theory of Janssen is used. The effects of the wave radiation stress on surge levels and the effects of storm-induced currents on waves are also investigated.The coupled wave and storm surge models have been tested by hindcasting two storm events in the northern South China Sea. The use of the Simth and Banke stress relation underestimates the surges by 10%. The inclusion of the radiation stress improves the accuracy of the computed results slightly by 2%. The introduction of a wave-dependent surface drag gives a significant improvement. The storm-induced currents clearly affect the wave characteristics at the peak stage. However, as far as the prediction of wave height is concerned, it is better not to consider the wave radiation stress in the storm surge model unless this is accompanied by a wave-dependent surface drag.     

Three-dimensional visualization of mission planning and control forthe NPS autonomous underwater vehicle

The Naval Postgraduate School (NPS) is constructing a small autonomous underwater vehicle (AUV) with an onboard mission control computer. The mission controller software for this vehicle is a knowledge-based artificial intelligence (AI) system requiring thorough analysis and testing before the AUV is operational. The manner in which rapid prototyping of this software has been demonstrated by developing a controller code on a LISP machine and using an Ethernet link with a graphics workstation to simulate the controller's environment is discussed. The development of a testing simulator using a knowledge engineering environment (KEE) expert system shell that examines AUV controller subsystems and vehicle models before integrating them with the full AUV for its test environment missions is discussed. This AUV simulator utilizes an interactive mission planning control console and is fully autonomous once initial parameters are selected     

Bacterial sulphate reduction in sediments of a european salt marsh: Acid-volatile and tin-reducible products

The products of ³⁵S-sulphate reduction by sedimentary bacteria were measured at two sites in a salt marsh on the east coast of England. Non-acid-volatile products were measured, after acid-volatile sulphide was removed, by their reduction to sulphide by digestion with tin. The proportion of the sulphate reduced to tin-reducible products varied between 25% in a salt marsh pan and 61% in creek sediment, over a 0–25 cm depth profile. There were also variations with depth at each site in the proportions of sulphate reduced to tin-reducible products. Further examination revealed differences in the proportions of sulphate which were reduced to free sulphide, acid-volatile sulphide, sulphur or pyrite at the two sites. The data suggest that previous work which did not measure non-acid-volatile products underestimated sulphate reduction rates by three-fold in the creek site, but by only one third in the pan.     

Trace metal concentrations in sediments of the Eastern Mississippi Bight

Sediments collected from 3 onshore-offshore transects (12 stations total) in the Eastern Mississippi Bight at 5 different times during 1987–1988 have been analyzed for total Ag, As, Ba, Cd, Co, Cr, Cu, Fe, Hg, Mn, Ni, Pb, Sb, Se, Sn, Th and Zn. The data show considerable variation both spatially and temporally, largely as a result of natural variability in grain size and mineralogy. Clay-rich samples from deep water were always more metal-rich than sandy samples from shallow areas. Many samples from near the Mississippi River Delta appeared to be enriched in Ba by about a factor of two, probably as a result of contamination from oil well drilling mud, but there were few other indications of pollution influences. Many samples from throughout the area gave Mn/Fe and Cd/Fe ratios a factor of two or more lower than their Mississippi River source material. This shows that biochemical activity in the sediment is capable of solubilizing reducible and adsorbed metals.     

The distributions of particulate atmospheric trace metals and mineral aerosols over the Indian Ocean

Data are presented for the concentrations of Al, Fe, Mn, Ni, Co, Cr, V, Cu, Zn, Pb and Cd in aerosols collected over two contrasting regions of the Indian Ocean. These are: (1) the northern Arabian Sea (AS), from which samples were collected in the northeast monsoon, during which the region receives an input of crustal material from the surrounding arid land masses; and (2) the Tropical Southern Indian Ocean (TSIO), a remote region from which samples were collected from air masses for which there were no large-scale up-wind continental aerosol sources. The TSIO samples can be divided into two populations: Population I aerosols, collected from air masses which have probably impinged on Madagascar, and Population II aerosols, which have been confined to open-ocean regions to the south of the area.The data indicate that there are strong latitudinal variations in the chemical signatures of aerosols over the Indian Ocean. The input of crustal material to the Arabian Sea gives rise to an average Al concentration of about 1000 ng m⁻³ of air in the northeast monsoon regime. As a result, the concentrations of all trace metals are relatively high, and the values of crustal enrichment factors are less than 10 for most metals, in the AS aerosols. In contrast, TSIO Population II ‘open-ocean southern air’ sampled during the southwest monsoon season, has an average Al concentration of only about 10 ng m⁻³ of air. Trace metal concentrations in the TSIO ‘open-ocean southern air’ during the southwest monsoon season are representative of ‘clean’ remote marine air and are generally similar to those reported over the central North Pacific.Mineral dust concentrations over the Indian Ocean decrease in a north to south direction, from about 15–20 μg m⁻³ of air in the extreme north to about 0.01–0.25 μg m⁻³ of air in the far south. The deposition of mineral dust over the northern Arabian Sea can account for approximately 75% of the non-carbonate material incorporated into the underlying sediments.In the Arabian Sea the dissolved atmospheric inputs of all the trace metals, with the exception of Cu and Co, exceed those from fluvial run-off by factors which range from 9.6 for Pb to 1.6 for Cr.     

Vertical variations of the chlorophyll maximum during a red tide in a shallow lagoon

The results of eight sets of repeated observations on the vertical variations of the chlorophyll maximum layer in a shallow lagoon during a red tide show that these were more frequently hydrologically induced, rather than due to active vertical migrations of the red tide-forming organism. These results are discussed and compared to those existing in the literature, with special regard to the role of light and nitrogen in conditioning vertical migrations in red tide-forming dinoflagellates.     

Holocene sedimentation of a wave-dominated barrierisland shoreline: Cape Lookout, North Carolina

The sedimentary record of 130 km of microtidal (0.9 m tidal range) high wave energy (1.5 m average wave height) barrier island shoreline of the Cape Lookout cuspate foreland has been evaluated through examination of 3136 m of subsurface samples from closely spaced drill holes. Holocene sedimentation and coastal evolution has been a function of five major depositional processes: (1) eustatic sea-level rise and barrier-shoreline transgression; (2) lateral tidal inlet migration and reworking of barrier island deposits; (3) shoreface sedimentation and local barrier progradation; (4) storm washover deposition with infilling of shallow lagoons; and (5) flood-tidal delta sedimentation in back-barrier environments.

Twenty-five radiocarbon dates of subsurface peat and shell material from the Cape Lookout area are the basis for a late Holocene sea-level curve. From 9000 to 4000 B.P. eustatic sea level rose rapidly, resulting in landward migration of both barrier limbs of the cuspate foreland. A decline in the rate of sea-level rise since 4000 B.P. resulted in relative shoreline stabilization and deposition of contrasting coastal sedimentary sequences. The higher energy, storm-dominated northeast barrier limb (Core and Portsmouth Banks) has migrated landward producing a transgressive sequence of coarse-grained, horizontally bedded washover sands overlying burrowed to laminated back-barrier and lagoonal silty sands. Locally, ephemeral tidal inlets have reworked the transgressive barrier sequence depositing fining-upward spit platform and channel-fill sequences of cross-bedded, pebble gravel to fine sand and shell. Shoreface sedimentation along a portion of the lower energy, northwest barrier limb (Bogue Banks) has resulted in shoreline progradation and deposition of a coarsening-up sequence of burrowed to cross-bedded and laminated, fine-grained shoreface and foreshore sands. In contrast, the adjacent barrier island (Shackleford Banks) consists almost totally of inlet-fill sediments deposited by lateral tidal inlet migration. Holocene sediments in the shallow lagoons behind the barriers are 5–8 m thick fining-up sequences of interbedded burrowed, rooted and laminated flood-tidal delta, salt marsh, and washover sands, silts and clays.

While barrier island sequences are generally 10 m in thickness, inlet-fill sequences may be as much as 25 m thick and comprise an average of 35% of the Holocene sedimentary deposits. Tidal inlet-fill, back-barrier (including flood-tidal delta) and shoreface deposits are the most highly preservable facies in the wave-dominated barrier-shoreline setting. In the Cape Lookout cuspate foreland, these three facies account for over 80% of the sedimentary deposits preserved beneath the barriers. Foreshore, spit platform and overwash facies account for the remaining 20%.     

A statistical analysis of non-linear random waves

A statistical analysis of unidirectional non-linear random waves is presented which is based on second-order random wave theory. The analysis technique is similar to a method which is available for the statistical analysis of a two-term Volterra series. It is shown that the statistical problem can be reduced to that of finding the eigenvalues and eigenvectors of two real symmetric matrices, from which the cumulants, the characteristic function, and the probability density function of the surface elevation can be found. Various numerical examples are considered, and the possibility of extending the technique to deal with spreading seas is discussed.     

Abundance, distribution and patch formation of zooplankton

The goal of studies described here was to determine the responses of zooplankton taxa to phytoplankton patches which develop in and near intrusions of cold, nutrient-rich Gulf Stream water. To achieve this goal we determined the horizontal and vertical distributions of abundant mesozooplankton taxa on the south-eastern continental shelf of the USA between 29°30′ and 31°N. The study period was from June 23 to August 16, 1981. Highest concentrations of zooplankton usually occurred in and near patches of phytoplankton. Increased phytoplankton appeared to trigger the formation of patches of the calanoid copepod Temora turbinata and the cyclopoid copepods Oithona spp. and Oncaea spp. The patches of zooplankton had greater alongshore than cross-shelf dimensions. T. turbinata responded rapidly to increased concentrations of phytoplankton by reproducing and aggregating in and above intruded waters. Oithonidae which were often, but not always, abundant in phytoplankton patches eventually attained high concentrations over most of the middle and part of the inner shelf. Their concentration and that of Oncaeidae increased steadily. Oncaeidae were not abundant in recently upwelled waters, as was T. turbinata but reached high concentrations in older intrusions when the abundance of T. turbinata remained level or decreased slowly. Both cyclopoid taxa are thought to reproduce slowly (egg sacs) compared to T. turbinata. Another taxon, the doliolids, became abundant far more rapidly in intruded waters (by asexual reproduction) than did the other three taxa. Doliolids were the most opportunistic intrusion zooplankton form. They do not regularly occur in low abundance on the shelf, as do the three copepod taxa, but develop in pulses in regions where T. turbinata and Oncaea are not abundant. Of the four taxa studied the abundance of doliolids increased and decreased most rapidly, whereas Oithona and Oncaea increased slowly and did not decrease during the study period. T. turbinata and Oncaea were most abundant at 60% of all stations in the intruding water. Doliolids and Oithona on the other hand, were mostly in the thermocline and intrusion. Whereas phytoplankton patches, which developed in intrusions, were physically induced (PAFFENHÖFER and LEE, 1988), patches of zooplankton were biologically induced.