An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves.     

Influence of relative sea level changes on the construction of the Mississippi Fan

A conceptual sea-level-driven depositional model for individual fanlobes (channel-overbank systems) of the Mississippi Fan does not permit direct application of the sequence stratigraphic principles of Vail and colleagues. Deep Sea Drilling Project Leg 96 results suggest that, during initial relative lowering of sea level, the canyon and upper fan channel were formed; excavated fine-grained slope sediments may have formed a debris flow deposit base for the fanlobe. Continued lowering produced constructional channel-levee-overbank deposits. Rising relative sea level inhibited input of coarse clastics, and channel depressions filled with muds. A blanket of (hemi)pelagics represents relative high sea level stand.     

Spatial Variation in the Structure of Kelp Forest Communities Along a Wave Exposure Gradient

Abstract. Four sites were sampled in kelp (Macrocysiis pyrifera) forests occupying rocky bottom habitats along a wave exposure gradient in central California. Consistent betwecn-site differences were found in the three major structural elements - the surface canopy, the undcrstory assemblage, and the ground cover/turf assemblage - of kelp forest communities. Macrocysiis pyrifera was found at all four sites. Nereucyslis tuelkeana only at the most exposed site. The understory kelps Laminaria setchellii and Pterygopltora californica were also characteristic of exposed sites. Articulated coralline algae were more abundant at exposed sites than protected, while fleshy red algae showed the opposite pattern. All four study sites were located along 8.5 km of coastline, and thus were assumed to have available to them the same species pool for colonization. The substrate composition was the same and the amount of unconsolidated substrate was similar at all four sites. We suggest that exposure to wave-generated water motion, through its influence on the surface canopy and therefore on the amount of light reaching the bottom, is responsible for these between-site differences.     

Observations of natural fluorescence with an underwater radiometer

Measurements of subsurface irradiance spectra in the ocean consistently indicate intensities of long-wavelength visible light (589 nm) greater than could be derived from the penetration of sunlight. This can be attributed to natural fluorescence and/or to spectral crosstalk due to light leakage through the blocking filters of each discrete detector. A comparison of observed profiles with modelled contributions from these two possible sources indicates that both factors are contributing. At 671 and 694 nm wavelength, the excess signal appears to be predominantly fluorescence while that at 589 nm is mostly crosstalk. Both effects appear to be important at 625 nm although the amount of excess light is small compared to the other wavelengths.The above observations and interpretations are consistent with the optical design of the instrument used and the shape of natural irradiance spectra. Fluorescence efficiencies derived from the irradiance measurements correlate well with measuredin situ fluorescence.     

A detailed magnetic study of the Reykjanes Ridge between 63°00′N and 63°40′N

Immediately southwest of Iceland, the Reykjanes Ridge consists of a series ofen échelon, elongate ridges superposed on an elevated, smooth plateau. We have interpreted a detailed magnetic study of the portion of the Reykjanes Ridge between 63°00N and 63°40N on the Icelandic insular shelf. Because the seafloor is very shallow in our survey area (100–500 m), the surface magnetic survey is equivalent to a high-sensitivity, nearbottom experiment using a deep-towed magnetometer. We have performed two-dimensional inversions of the magnetic data along profiles perpendicular to the volcanic ridges. The inversions, which yield the magnetization distribution responsible for the observed magnetic field, allow us to locate the zones of most recent volcanism and to measure spreading rates accurately. We estimate the average half spreading rate over the last 0.72 m.y. to have been 10 mm/yr within the survey area. The two-dimensional inversions allow us also to measure polarity transition widths, which provide an indirect measure of the width of the zone of crustal accretion. We find a mean transition width on the order of 4.5±1.6 km. The observed range of transition widths (2 to 8.4 km) and their mean value are characteristic of slow-spreading centers, where the locus of crustal accretion may be prone to lateral shifts depending on the availability of magmatic sources. These results suggest that, despite the unique volcanotectonic setting of the Reykjanes Ridge, the scale at which crustal accretion occurs along it may be similar to that at which it occurs along other slow-spreading centers. The polarity transition width measurements suggest a zone of crustal accretion 4–9 km wide. This value is consistent with the observed width of volcanic systems of the Reykjanes Peninsula. The magnetization amplitudes inferred from our inversions are in general agreement with NRM intensity values of dredge samples measured by De Boer (1975) and ourselves. Our thermomagnetic measurements do not support the hypothesis that the low amplitude of magnetic anomalies near Iceland is the result of a high oxidation state of the basalts. We suggest that the observed reduction in magnetic anomaly amplitude toward Iceland may be the result of an increase in the size of pillows and other igneous units.     

The reliability of analytical data for tributyltin (TBT) in sea water and its implications on water quality criteria

To investigate the reliability of analytical data for tributyltin (TBT) in sea water, split water samples were distributed to ten laboratories in six countries. The sub-surface samples comprised: (i) an offshore (0·5 km) water sample, (ii) the same sample but spiked with an undisclosed quantity of TBT standard compound (175 ng TBT⁺ liter⁻¹), and (iii) a sample taken from a yacht marina. The seven acceptable data sets were in good agreement for the spiked sample (178 ± 26 ng TBT⁺ liter⁻¹) but showed a greater variation in concentrations reported for the yacht marina sample (366 ± 93 ng TBT⁺ liter⁻¹). Atomic absorption and gas chromatographic-flame photometric detection techniques produced results of similar accuracy and precision. Samples acidified with 1 ml of 10% (v/v) acetic acid appeared stable for more than 2 weeks when stored refrigerated and in darkness. Analyses of the offshore seawater sample revealed TBT contamination (9 ± 7 ng TBT⁺ liter⁻¹) indicating dispersion of the compound to the shelf waters off Monaco. The spread in values reported by the laboratories demonstrates inherent difficulties in obtaining good precision below approximately 20 ng TBT⁺ liter⁻¹. This observation is discussed with respect to the setting and enforcing of water quality standards.     

Sea Grant in Latin America?: Adapting the US Sea Grant model of linked applied research,extension, and education to a Latin American Context—Is there a fit?

This paper explores the application of the US Sea Grant model of applied research, extension, and education to two case studies in Latin America: Coastal Ecuador and the Gulf of Fonseca. The analysis is based on a series of meetings and roundtables with in-country partners and leaders of the US Sea Grant program. We conclude that the Sea Grant model provides an institutional structure that Latin America lacks and the model's features would improve governance of marine and coastal resources through more effective linkages between coastal communities, universities, and policy/decision makers at local, national, and international levels.     

Th sorption and export models in the water column: A review

Over the past few decades, the radioisotope pair of ²³⁸U / ²³⁴Th has been widely and increasingly used to describe particle dynamics and particle export fluxes in a variety of aquatic systems. The present paper is one of five review articles dedicated to ²³⁴Th. It is focused on the models associated with ²³⁴Th whereas the companion papers (same issue) are focused on present and future methodologies and techniques (Rutgers van der Loeff et al.), C / ²³⁴Th ratios (Buesseler et al.), ²³⁴Th speciation (Santschi et al.) and present and future applications of ²³⁴Th [Waples, J.T., Benitez-Nelson, C.R., Savoye, N., Rutgers van der Loeff, M., Baskaran, M., Gustafsson, Ö., this issue. An Introduction to the application and future use of ²³⁴Th in aquatic systems. Marine Chemistry, FATE special issue]. In this paper, we review current ²³⁴Th scavenging models and discuss the relative importance of the non-steady state and physical terms associated with the most commonly used model to estimate ²³⁴Th flux. Based on this discussion we recommend that for future work the use of models should be accompanied by a discussion of the effect that model and data uncertainty have on the model results. We also suggest that future field work incorporate repeat occupations of sample sites on time scales of 1–4 weeks in order to evaluate steady state versus non-steady state estimates of ²³⁴Th export, especially during high flux events (> ca. 800 dpm m^− 2 d^− 1). Finally, knowledge of the physical oceanography of the study area is essential, particularly in ocean margins and in areas of established upwelling (e.g., Equatorial Pacific). These suggestions will greatly enhance the application of ²³⁴Th as a tracer of particle dynamics and flux in more complicated regimes.     

Observations on the Burrows and Burrowing Behaviour of the Red Band-Fish, Cepola rubescens L.

Abstract. The red band-fish, Cepola rubescens L., lives in burrows in sublittoral muddy sediments. The authors first presented information on the burrows of this species in the 1970s. The present paper presents new information on burrow structure, describes the method of excavation, and comments on the bioturbatory significance of the species. The work derives from field and laboratory studies. A burrow typically consists of a vertical shaft which opens into an expanded terminal chamber. In some cases a side shaft may be added. The paper includes a size analysis of 130 burrows measured in the field and detailed morphological information from a selection of burrows which were cast with polyester resin. The fish burrows are frequently intersected by the burrows of other species and interspecific associations may develop. Burrow size reflects the size of the occupant and may approach 1 m in depth. The biogenic movement of water and particles to this depth is often overlooked in bioturbation studies and is discussed. Burrow distribution is aggregate, which has implications for the bioturbatory impact of the species. Burrows are constructed by mouth excavation and this is described in detail. Fish transport fine material within their mouths and coarse material is grasped in the jaws. Large spoil heaps occur at burrow openings. One obvious effect of this bioturbatory activity at the field site was the redistribution of coarse material (shell gravel) from depth to the sediment surface.