Random wave-current interactions in water of varying depth

Refraction of incoherent random gravity waves with currents and bottom topography results in spatial variations in the spectral characteristics of the free surface. Prediction of such variations based on the radiation transfer equation is in a simple analytic form for the case of one dimensional inhomogeneities in currents and topography. This analytic form is examined in terms of two-dimensional wave number- and polar frequency-direction spectra along the associated dynamic and kinematic constraints relevant to wave breaking and reflection. Results are specialized to the simplest case of horizontal shear currents in deep and shallow water with explicit examples to illustrate the relative and combined effects of currents and topography on free surface spectra.     

Dissolved nutrient balance and net ecosystem metabolism in a Mediterranean-climate coastal lagoon: San Diego Bay

The temporal and spatial variability of dissolved inorganic phosphate (DIP), nitrogen (DIN), carbon (DIC) and dissolved organic carbon (DOC) were studied in order to determine the net ecosystem metabolism (NEM) of San Diego Bay (SDB), a Mediterranean-climate lagoon. A series of four sampling campaigns were carried out during the rainy (January 2000) and the dry (August 2000 and May and September 2001) seasons. During the dry season, temperature, salinity and DIP, DIC and DOC concentrations increased from oceanic values in the outer bay to higher values at the innermost end of the bay. DIP, DIC and DOC concentrations showed a clear offset from conservative mixing implying production of these dissolved materials inside the bay. During the rainy season, DIP and DOC increased to the head, whereas salinity decreased toward the mouth due to land runoff and river discharges. The distributions of DIP and DOC also showed a deviation from conservative mixing in this season, implying a net addition of these dissolved materials during estuarine mixing within the bay. Mass balance calculations showed that SDB consistently exported DIP (2.8–9.8 × 10³ mol P d⁻¹), DIC (263–352 × 10³ mol C d⁻¹) and DOC (198–1233 × 10³ mol C d⁻¹), whereas DIN (5.5–18.2 × 10³ mol N d⁻¹) was exported in all samplings except in May 2001 when it was imported (8.6 × 10³ mol N d⁻¹). The DIP, DIC and DOC export rates along with the strong relationship between DIP, DIC or DOC and salinity suggest that intense tidal mixing plays an important role in controlling their distributions and that SDB is a source of nutrients and DOC to the Southern California Bight. Furthermore, NEM ranged from −8.1 ± 1.8 mmol C m⁻² d⁻¹ in September to −13.5 ± 5.8 mmol C m⁻² d⁻¹ in January, highlighting the heterotrophic character of SDB. In order to explain the net heterotrophy of this system, we postulate that phytoplankton-derived particulate organic matter, stimulated by upwelling processes in the adjacent coastal waters, is transported into the bay, retained and then remineralized within the system. Our results were compared with those reported for the heterotrophic hypersaline coastal lagoons located in the semi-arid coast of California–Baja California, and with those autotrophic hypersaline systems found in the semi-arid areas of Australia. We point out that the balance between autotrophy and heterotrophy in inverse estuaries is dependent on net external inputs of either inorganic nutrients or organic matter as it has been indicated for positive estuaries.     

Improved in situ gamma-ray transmission densitometer for marine sediments

The first-generation University of Illinois gamma-ray transmission densitometer, designed for the in situ measurement of sediment bulk density, was modified by incorporating in the detector probe (1) an Americium-241 alpha particle pulser and an anti-walk gain stabilization control to maintain better temperature stability and (2) a small power supply and a IC preamplifier to eliminate the need for a high-voltage coaxial cable between the detector and external signal conditioning electronics package. This second-generation Lehigh University system has been successfully deployed since 1971 in routine use from ships and submersibles in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and the Gulf of Mexico. Results are presented of system operations to (1) measure bulk density over the range of 1.2–1.8 Mg/m³ in the Hudson Canyon, (2) penetrate 1.9 m into the seafloor in the San Diego trough and, (3) be lowered to a water depth of 3.6 km in the Gulf of Mexico.     

An improved specific interaction model for seawater at 25°C and 1 atmosphere total pressure

Equations recently developed by Pitzer are applied to a seawater model on the assumption that only interactions between ions of opposite charge sign are significant. This model is shown to give good agreement with available experimental data for the osmotic coefficient and for the mean-ion activity coefficients of the major electrolyte components. The results are compared with the predictions of the ion-association model and with a number of models using the concept of specific ionic interaction. The relative merits of the various models are discussed. Pitzer's original equations are modified to enable the calculation of conventional single-ion activity coefficients. These values are compared with those obtained on the basis of alternative conventions and an encouraging measure of agreement is observed. It is concluded that the new model introduces a fluency into the specific interaction approach that should greatly facilitate the incorporation of trace components into future models.     

Beach accretion and erosion, Burullus-Gamasa coast, Egypt

Several areas of erosion and accretion were observed along the Burullus-Gamasa beach. The accreted sands are coarser and less sorted than the eroded ones. Differentiation between them could be achieved on the basis of their grain-size fractions, shape of grain-size distribution curves and statistical grain-size parameter relationships.     

Comparison of three oxidation methods used for the analysis of the dissolved organic carbon in seawater

Three methods for the determination of dissolved organic carbon in seawater were compared. Samples were analysed using persulphate oxidation, high-temperature combustion, and ultraviolet photo-oxidation. The dissolved organic carbon content of the seawater samples ranged from 0.6 to 1.6 mg C/I. This study shows that results of high-temperature oxidation and photo-oxidation procedures differ by less than 5%, whereas results with persulphate oxidation are about 15% less than those obtained with the high-temperature oxidation. The relative merits of each of the oxidation techniques for the determination of organic matter in seawater are discussed.     

Ice resistance measurements in ridges with IB APU in the Baltic sea

Ice ridges form a difficult obstacle for ice navigation. Despite this fact, the resistance of ships in ridges has been investigated very little.A trial was performed with the Finnish icebreaker APU (propulsion machinery power of 8·8 MW) in April 1974 in the Baltic, in order to measure its resistance in ridges.Most of the 11 ridges were so massive that the ship could not penetrate through them by a continuous mode, the ramming mode had to be used.When the ship was penetrating a ridge, its speed and the propeller revolutions were registered for determining the resistance. A doppler radar was used for measuring ship spped.In case the ship was stopped in the ridge it was extracted, reversed and accelerated for the next ram. The time history was registered for determining the ship's speed of advance.Before starting a test, the ridge profile above the water level was measured. This was simply done by using a levelling instrument.The main object of the test was to determine the ship's speed of advance. The results, i.e. ice resistance, ship speed and ridge characteristics were analysed on three levels: momentary values average values for rams and average values for a series of rams in one ridge.The test series presented in the article was the first one in full scale in which the speed of the advance of a ship moving by ramming was determined and the ridge profiles were mapped. The measuring system developed worked well. As results the tests gave data of the ship's resistance and of the ship's speed of advance in ridges.