A calibration of the Bagnold beach equation

A simple sand trap is used to measure swash and backwash bedload transport rates on intertidal profiles. Data from sixty-eight beach experiments are used to calculate a mean value of 12.78 kg m^?4s^?2 for the calibration coefficient in the Bagnold beach equation.     

一种浅海锚泊测流浮标系统的实验

早在五十年代,海洋科技工作者已开始利用浮标布设海洋调查仪器,进行海上观测的试验工作。目前被采用的浮标系统,大体有三种类型:(1)锚泊浮标系统,利用各类自含式海洋调査仪器进行测量,定期收回资料;(2)遥测浮标系统,利用无线电遥控和收发各种海洋观测数据;(3)漂移浮标系统,利用浮标本身的漂移,进行海流和其他要素的观测。本文主要介绍浅海锚泊浮标系统的设计和使用情况。 对锚泊浮标系统的研究和实验,许多国家已做了大量有成效的工作。目前关于浮标的设计和锚泊方法尚无統一意见,但是可以看出,大多趋向于采用水下浮标张缆锚泊。这种方法使得浮标系统比起遥测浮标系统来,较为轻小、经济、方便,适合于进行多站同步观测。国外在海洋调查中经常利用这种系统作较长期的海流观测。 我所在六十年代初就已开始了锚泊浮标系统的研究、实验,1964年进行了新的研究设计工作,并在“全国海洋仪器会战”期间,完成了整套系统的计算设计与海上实验,经过鉴定,建议作小批量生产。 近年来,国家海洋局第一海洋研究所、中国科学院南海海洋研究所利用该浮标系统作过多次海上试用,取得了海流长期观测资料,初步考验了该系统的性能。我们最近又对某些部件作了一定的改进,并进行了海上实验。但是,实验也表明:此方法不宜在渔场区和台风盛行季节使用,因易被渔网拖损和丢失。现综合报告如下。     

Distribution and number change of the Littorinid(Gastropoda) on intertidal hard bed in the Jiulong Estuary, Fujian Province

-Among four species of Littorinid, Littorina scabra, L. brevicula, Nodiliitorina millegrana and N. pyramidalis pyramidalis, on the hard intertidal zone in the Jiulong Estuary, Fujian, L. scabra has the most extensive distribution both vertically and horizontally, and the highest anual average density. The uppermost limit of vertical distribution of N. pyramidalis pyramidalis is higher than the other three Littorinid. Desiccation is a main factor affecting the uppermost limit of vertical distribution of the Littorinid. The increasing wave action will raise the uppermost limit vertical distribution of Littorinid. With seasonal changes, the densities of the Littorinid also change in different tidal zonations. Difference in salinity is the main factor affecting the horizontal distribution of the Littorinid in the estuary.     

Evidence for slope instability and current-induced sediment transport,the RMSTitanic wreck search area,Newfoundland rise

The first map of the sea bed morphology and sedimentary features within the RMSTitanic search area is proposed from the interpretation of SAR side-scan sonar images. Downslope sedimentary features such as erosional furrows and crown scarps constitute a 7 km wide instability corridor. A large field (15 km²) of asymmetrical sediment waves indicating a downslope transport is identified. Current-induced features corresponding to associated sand ribbons and barchan dunes resulting from the Western Boundary Undercurrent action are mapped. The morphology of theTitanic Canyon is also precised from the SAR images. Finally, the origin of the sea bed features is discussed in an attempt to link each bed form to a sedimentary process.     

海气相互作用的随机-动力理论

在长期天气过程和气候形成的理论中,海洋起着重要的作用。但是海洋是一种缓慢流动的介质,比热也远比大气的比热大,从大范围运动角度来看,大气运动特别大尺度天气过程,相对说来比较活跃和变化速度较快,这种较快的天气起伏,将影响海水的潜热和感热输送,使海温发生变化,然而海温的气候变化是一个缓慢过程,而且是一个大范围现象,因此可以将天气过程的起伏看成一种随机强迫,从这一观点出发,Frankignoul and Hasselman采用简单的随机模型,探讨了海温异常的成因与变化,得到了引人注目。     

Geotechnical aspects of fine-grained mass flow deposits: California Continental Borderland

Seismic reflection profiling demonstrates the importance of mass movement in the north-central California Borderland. Bulk properties of surficial hemipelagic sediments in the Santa Barbara, Santa Cruz, and San Nicolas basins show that different types of mass-transported sediments have different properties, although their general sedimentologic characteristics are very similar. Slump deposits have moderate water contents (48% wet weight basis), high plasticity indices (46%), and moderate activities (1.6). For debris flows these values are low: 28%, 5%, and 0.3, respectively, and for other types (liquefied flow, mudflows, and turbidities) the values are high: 54 to 63%, 49 to 58%, and 1.2 to 1.5, respectively.     

Occurrence and environmental implications of magnetic iron sulfides in stiff muds from the continental shelf of the East China Sea

Magnetic properties were measured on 370 vibrocores obtained from the outer continental shelf of the East China Sea, with the aim of reconstructing environmental changes during the late Quaternary. High SIRM/χ values (>25 kA m⁻¹) found in stiff muds of late Pleistocene age suggest the presence of magnetic iron sulfides, especially greigite. Framboidal aggregates of greigite were further identified by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and attached energy dispersive X-ray (EDAX) analyses, as well as powder X-ray diffraction (XRD) analyses of the magnetic separates. The occurrence of magnetic iron sulfides indicates the complex oxidation–reduction of the stiff muds, resulting from exposure and inundation during the last glacial maximum (LGM) and the post-glacial transgression, respectively.     

Comparison of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon distributions and sedimentary organic matter characteristics in contaminated, coastal sediments from Pensacola Bay, Florida

In this study, we examined the distribution of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in a contaminated coastal area and the characteristics of the natural organic matter in tandem. We present a detailed study of PAH concentration, distribution, and organic matter characteristics of three core samples from Pensacola Bay, Florida. Solid-state 13C Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), pyrolysis gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and tetramethyl ammonium hydroxide (TMAH) thermochemolysis GC-MS were applied to obtain structural details about the sedimentary organic matter. Elemental compositions (carbon and nitrogen) and estimates of black carbon contents are also reported. These coastal sediments were found to contain more PAHs in the upper 15 cm layers than in the bottom 15-25 cm samples. The samples that contained the most PAHs also contained the least amount of aromatic carbon and contained a significant amount of paraffinic carbon. Lignin-derived pyrolysis and TMAH thermochemolysis products were abundant and generally higher in all of the samples in comparison to those reported for modern coastal sediments, indicating a large flux of terrestrial carbon. The black carbon contents were found to range from 4.3% to 6.8%, which are significantly lower than other reports of black carbon in sediments, which represent as much as 65% of the total organic carbon content. The low black carbon content suggests that this type of refractory carbon may not be as responsible for regulating PAH distribution as indicated by other researchers.     

Copepod grazing during spring blooms: Can Pseudocalanus newmani induce trophic cascades?

During late winter and spring of 2002 and 2003, 24 two- to three-day cruises were conducted to Dabob Bay, Washington State, USA, to examine the grazing, egg production, and hatching success rates of adult female Calanus pacificus and Pseudocalanus newmani. Here, we discuss the results of our grazing experiments for P. newmani. Each week, we conducted traditional microzooplankton dilution experiments and “copepod dilution” experiments, each from two different layers. Grazing was measured by changes in chlorophyll concentration and direct cell counts. Clearance rates on individual prey species, as calculated by cell counts, showed that Pseudocalanus are highly selective in their feeding, and may have much higher grazing rates on individual taxa than calculated from bulk chlorophyll disappearance. The grazing rates of the copepods, however, are typically an order of magnitude lower than the grazing rates of the microzooplankton community, or the growth rates of the phytoplankton. P. newmani ingested diatoms, but, at certain times fed preferentially on microzooplankton, such as ciliates, tintinnids, and larger dinoflagellates. Removal of the microzooplankton may have released the other phytoplankton species from grazing pressure, allowing those species’ abundance to increase, which was measured as an apparent “negative” grazing on those phytoplankton species. The net result of grazing on some phytoplankton species, while simultaneously releasing others from grazing pressure resulted in bulk chlorophyll-derived estimates of grazing which were essentially zero or slightly negative; thus bulk chlorophyll disappearance is a poor indicator of copepod grazing. Whether copepods can significantly release phytoplankton from the grazing pressure by microzooplankton in situ, thus causing a trophic cascade, remains to be verified, but is suggested by our study.     

On the recovery of surface wave by pressure transfer function

Except the commonly selected pressure transfer function derived from the linear wave theory, a previous study on the pressure transfer function for recovering surface wave from underwater pressure transducer suggested that the pressure transfer function is a function of frequency parameter only. With careful analysis, this study showed that the pressure transfer function should include a transducer submergence parameter as that given by the linear theory. It was found that the previously suggested empirical formula should be restricted to measurements with the pressure transducer close to the surface; otherwise overestimation of wave height would result. Field measurements were carried out with an acoustic wave gauge and a synchronized pressure transducer located at various depths with submergence parameter close to 1 (near the sea floor). It was shown that the previous one-parameter empirical formula might overestimate the significant wave height by more than 30%. This study found that with deep-water wave bursts excluded, the transfer function based on the linear wave theory provided a fairly good estimation on the significant wave heights, with an average deviation of 3.6%.