Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves     

Transient soil response in a porous seabed with variable permeability

The soil permeability of many natural marine sediments decreases with depth because of consolidation under overburden pressure. This is accompanied by a decrease in porosity and void ratio that also affect the permeability. Conventional theories for wave-induced soil response have assumed a homogeneous porous seabed. This paper presents a new approach for the wave-induced response in a soil matrix, with variable permeability as a function of burial depth. The soil matrix considered is unsaturated and anisotropic, and is subject to a three-dimensional wave system. The pore pressure and effective stresses induced by such a system are obtained from a set of equations incorporating a variable permeability. Verification is available through reduction to the simple case of uniform permeability. The results indicate that the effect of variable soil permeability on pore pressure and vertical effective stress may be significant, especially in a gravelled seabed and for unsaturated sandy soils.     

Relationship between biogeochemical features of biogenic elements and flocculation in the Changjiang Estuary

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大连湾牡蛎的染色体数目

以大连湾牡蛎的早期胚胎为材料。经染色体数目分析,首次提出大连湾牡蛎的染色体数目为2n=20。为牡蛎遗传育种工作提供依据。     

The relationship between tidal current field and sediment transport in the Huanghai Sea and the Bohai Sea

-Based on a two-dimensional numerical M2 tidal model of the Huanghai and Bohai Seas, sediment transport of particles with different sizes in the computational area is given. It is concluded that tidal currents play an important role in sediment transport and deposition in the Huanghai and Bohai Seas.     

渤海湾海河口区浮游植物动态及其与有机污染的关系

近二十年来，随着海洋环境科学的发展，河口污染和生态问题日益受到重视。关于污水排放对河口内湾浮游植物生态的影响，近年Ketchum, B. H. (1967); McCormick, J.M. 等(1975); Rice, T. R. (1975); Jenkins, S. H. (1978); Thompson, G. B. 等(1981 ); Meyers, V. B. 等(1983)和Joint, I. R.(1984)都做过调查研究和评论。但迄今国内有关这方面的研究报道甚少。 海河口是一个有污染源的生态环境特殊的感潮河口，受自然因素和人类活动的影响很大。由于其地理位置得天独厚，水质肥沃，饵料丰富，历来是许多经济鱼虾类优良的天然产卵、索饵和肥育的场所，在渤海渔业上占有重要位置。但近十多年，由于入海径流量锐减和城市污水排海总量的增加1)，其水质逐渐恶化，环境正由半咸水向海洋化方向演变，对河口渔业构成严重威胁。对此，我所曾于1978-1981年对渤海湾的污染状况及影响进行过多学科的综合调查，在渤海湾污染的浮游植物生态效应、海湾富营养化及其与赤潮的关系等方面，也做过初步研究(邹景忠等，1983; 1984; 1985 )。当时由于受调查范围和项目的限制，对河口有机污染及生态效应的研究还很不够，所获得的一些资料尚不足以作出定量的科学论断。 本文着重探讨海河口区浮游植物的生态变化及其与有机污染的关系，旨在为综合分析和评价海河口区目前的生态质量及演变趋势，为河口环境的综合整治提供科学依据。     

Test Study on Current Force on Mooring Ships

In respect of an offshore berthing pillar, the test study result of current force acting on mooring ships is described in this paper. Empirical and semi-empirical relationships of current force coefficient are given according to the angle between the flow direction and the ship's longitudinal axis, which are coincident with the result of theoretical analysis.     

A Computational Model for Velocity Separation in Shallow Sea

Based on the hydrodynamical feature and the theoretical velocity profiles of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow in shal-low sea, a computational model is established for the first time, which can separate observed velocity into tidal velocity and wind-induced velocity by use of the least square method. With the model, not only the surface velocities of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow are obtained, but also the bed roughness height is determined and the wind velocity above the wa-ter surface is estimated. For verification of the model, the observed velocity in the Yellow River Estuary and the laborato-ry test is separated, then it is applied to the Yangtze River Estuary. All the results are satisfactory. The research results show that the model is simple in method, feasible in process and reasonable in result. The model is a valid approach to analysis and computation of field dala, and can be applied to separate the observed velocity in shallow sea; at the same time, reasonable boundary conditions of th     

冲绳海槽中段沉积岩芯碳酸盐和烧失量的古环境意义

对冲绳海槽中段 3个沉积岩芯碳酸盐和烧失量的系统分析得知 ,岩芯沉积物的CaCO3含量一般 >1 0 % ,最高含量接近 30 % ,烧失量大都在 1 0 %～ 30 %之间变化 ,反映了该海区处于溶跃面之上钙质生物极为发育的生物地球化学环境。结合δ1 8O曲线所反映的气候环境变化 ,探讨了 1 2 0kaB .P .以来碳酸盐旋回的“大西洋型”演变特点 ,同时对该区沉积地层中的火山热液活动印记作了一定的探讨。     

胶州湾大沽河口洪水期三维水沙数值模拟研究

大沽河是胶州湾最大的入海河流,每年都会给胶州湾带来大量泥沙。本文利用三维的ECOMSED水动力-泥沙数值模型对洪水期的大沽河进行了数值模拟,得到了洪水存在期间以及洪水结束后胶州湾的余流分布、大沽河河道上中下游各层盐度、泥沙浓度随时间变化的趋势以及入海冲淡水和泥沙对胶州湾的影响。