Storms and shoreline retreat in the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence

Storms play a major role in shoreline recession on transgressive coasts. In the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence (GSL), southeastern Canada, long-term relative sea-level rise off the North Shore of Prince Edward Island has averaged 0.3 m/century over the past 6000 years (>0.2 m/century over 2000 years). This has driven long-term coastal retreat at mean rates >0.5 m/a but the variance and details of coastal profile response remain poorly understood. Despite extensive sandy shores, sediment supply is limited and sand is transferred landward into multidecadal to century-scale storage in coastal dunes, barrier washover deposits, and flood-tidal delta sinks. Charlottetown tide-gauge records show mean relative sea-level rise of 3.2 mm/a (0.32 m/century) since 1911. A further rise of 0.7±0.4 m is projected over the next 100 years. When differenced from tidal predictions, the water-level data provide a 90-year record of storm-surge occurrence. Combined with wind, wave hindcast, and sea-ice data, this provides a catalogue of potentially significant coastal storms. We also document coastal impacts from three recent storms of great severity in January and October 2000 and November 2001. Digital photogrammetry (1935–1990) and shore-zone surveys (1989–2001) show large spatial and temporal variance in coastal recession rates, weakly correlated with the storm record, in part because of wave suppression or coastal protection by sea ice. Large storms cause rapid erosion from which recovery depends in part on local sand supply, but barrier volume may be conserved by washover deposition. Barrier shores with dunes show high longshore and interdecadal variance, with extensive multidecadal healing of former inlet and overwash gaps. This reflects recovery from an episode of widespread overwash prior to 1935, possibly initiated by intense storms or groups of storms in the latter half of the 19th century. With evidence from the storms of 2000–2001, this points to the importance of storm clustering on scales of weeks to years in determining erosion vulnerability, as well as the need for a long-term, large-scale perspective in assessing coastal stability. The expected acceleration in relative sea-level rise, together with projections of increasing storm intensity and greatly diminished winter ice cover in the southern GSL, implies a significant increase in coastal erosion hazards in future.     

Phototoxicity of pyrene and benzo[a]pyrene to embryo-larval stages of the Pacific oyster Crassostrea gigas

There is a growing body of evidence to suggest that certain polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) pose a greater hazard to aquatic organisms than previously demonstrated, due to their potential to cause photo-induced toxicity when exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The consequences of photo-induced toxicity are reported here for embryo-larval stages of the pacific oyster Crassostrea gigas, following exposure to pyrene and benzo[a]pyrene. During laboratory investigations, significant increases in toxicity were observed in the presence of environmentally attainable levels of UV-radiation, compared with embryos exposed to PAH alone, at levels previously deemed to have little acute biological effect. The phototoxicity of pyrene and benzo[a]pyrene completely inhibited the development to the D-shell larval stage when embryos were simultaneously exposed to 5 microg l(-1) PAH and ultraviolet light (UVB = 6.3 +/- 0.1 microW/cm2 and UVA = 456.2 +/- 55 microW/cm2). A linear relationship was also demonstrated for benzo[a]pyrene phototoxicity with decreasing UV light intensity.     

Cycling the representer algorithm for variational data assimilation with a nonlinear reduced gravity ocean model

The representer method was used by [Ngodock, H.E., Jacobs, G.A., Chen, M., 2006. The representer method, the ensemble Kalman filter and the ensemble Kalman smoother: a comparison study using a nonlinear reduced gravity ocean model. Ocean Modelling 12, 378–400] in a comparison study with the ensemble Kalman filter and smoother involving a 1.5 nonlinear reduced gravity idealized ocean model simulating the Loop Current (LC) and the Loop Current eddies (LCE) in the Gulf of Mexico. It was reported that the representer method was more accurate than its ensemble counterparts, yet it had difficulties fitting the data in the last month of the 4-month assimilation window when the data density was significantly decreased. The authors attributed this failure to increased advective nonlinearities in the presence of an eddy shedding causing the tangent linear model (TLM) to become inaccurate. In a separate study [Ngodock, H.E., Smith, S.R., Jacobs, G.A., 2007. Cycling the representer algorithm for variational data assimilation with the Lorenz attractor. Monthly Weather Review 135 (2), 373–386] applied the cycling representer algorithm to the Lorenz attractor and demonstrated that the cycling solution was able to accurately fit the data within each cycle and beyond the range of accuracy of the TLM, once adjustments were made in the early cycles, thus overcoming the difficulties of the non-cycling solution. The cycling algorithm is used here in assimilation experiments with the nonlinear reduced gravity model. It is shown that the cycling solution overcomes the difficulties encountered by the non-cycling solution due to a limited time range of accuracy of the TLM. Thus, for variational assimilation applications where the TLM accuracy is limited in time, the cycling representer becomes a very powerful and attractive alternative, given that its computational cost is significantly lower than that of the non-cycling algorithm.     

GEBCO Centennial Special Issue – Charting the Secret World of the Ocean Floor: The GEBCO Project 1903–2003

This special issue of Marine Geophysical Researches presents five papers dealing with GEBCO, the General Bathymetric Chart of the Oceans, which celebrated its Centennial in April 2003, hosted by the International Hydrographic Bureau and the Principality of Monaco. Over the past 103 years GEBCO has been the sole body dedicated to compiling all available data to produce standardized maps of the oceans and seas covering 71% of planet Earth. Over time GEBCO has undergone a complete transformation as sparse 500 m contours on paper charts were replaced by digital grids with ever-increasing resolution. The 2003 Centennial saw the release on two CDROMS with the first global 1′ grid, produced by methods unheard of in 1984, when GEBCO’s last 6th Edition paper chart set was published. In GEBCO’s second century, the thrust is towards global grids that will capture the resolutions available with evolving deep-water swath mapping technologies, as well as vast improvement in the details of the shallow continental shelves that have traditionally been the preserve of the hydrographic community. As little more than 10% of the oceans have been mapped to the desired level of detail, there is much to be done. However refinements in satellite altimetry appear to offer an interim stop-gap as more multi-beam sonars ply the oceans and as the littoral countries of the world map their adjacent marine areas for submission under Article 76 of UNCLOS (United Nations, 1983, 1999). In addition GEBCO is becoming increasingly proactive, with outreach to the public via the internet and a new GEBCO Map of the World, active data-scrounging, and encouraging development of the first drifting buoys for acquiring data in the inaccessible areas of the Antarctic, SW Pacific, and Arctic Oceans.     

A 15-month study of zooplankton ingestion by farmed mussels (Mytilus edulis) in Bantry Bay, Southwest Ireland

There is a growing body of evidence to suggest that bivalve molluscs routinely ingest zooplankton. To elucidate further these observations, a 15-month study of zooplankton ingestion by farmed mussels was conducted using mussel long-lines in Bantry Bay, Ireland. Stomach content analysis of the mussels showed that there was evidence of zooplankton ingestion throughout the sampling period, but that highest mean numbers of zooplankters were ingested by mussels in the spring and summer months. Various zooplankton species were present in mussel stomachs. Harpacticoid copepods were found more often in stomach contents than calanoid copepods, probably due to their proximity to the bivalves' inhalent siphons. Barnacle cyprids featured in large numbers in stomach contents, but only for a period of 3 months which broadly corresponded with their pelagic phase. Sizes of ingested zooplankton ranged from 126 μm to 6 mm, but more of the smaller zooplankters (e.g. crustacean nauplii) were ingested. When lengths of ingested copepods were compared with those found in plankton net samples, it was found that the net-sampled copepods were significantly larger than those found in mussel stomachs, suggesting that mussels select for smaller categories within the zooplankton available to them. Soft bodied zooplankton was rarely found in mussel stomachs but their absence may be due to rapid digestion or they may have been destroyed in the preservation process. Ingestion of zooplankton by bivalves is discussed in the context of the impacts mussel farms have on resident zooplankton populations.     

Design of a 3D Chirp Sub-bottom Imaging System

Chirp sub-bottom profilers are marine acoustic devices that use a known and repeatable source signature (1–24 kHz) to produce decimetre vertical resolution cross-sections of the sub-seabed. Here the design and development of the first true 3D Chirp system is described. When developing the design, critical factors that had to be considered included spatial aliasing, and precise positioning of sources and receivers. Full 3D numerical modelling of the combined source and receiver directivity was completed to determine optimal source and receiver geometries. The design incorporates four source transducers (1.5–13 kHz) that can be arranged into different configurations, including Maltese Cross, a square and two separated pairs. The receive array comprises 240 hydrophones in 60 groups whose group-centres are separated by 25 cm in both horizontal directions, with each hydrophone group containing four individual elements and a pre-amplifier. After careful consideration, it was concluded that the only way to determine with sufficient accuracy the source–receiver geometry, was to fix the sources and receivers within a rigid array. Positional information for the array is given by a Real Time Kinematic GPS and attitude system incorporating four antennas to give position, heading, pitch and roll. It is shown that this system offers vertical positioning accuracy with a root-mean-square (rms) error less than 2.6 cm, while the horizontal positioning rms error was less than 2.0 cm. The system is configured so that the Chirp source signature can be chosen by software aboard the acquisition vessel. The complete system is described and initial navigational and seismic data results are presented. These data demonstrate that the approach of using fixed source-receiver geometry combined with RTK navigation can provide complete 3D imaging of the sub-surface.     

Numerical modeling of long waves in shallow water using Incremental Differential Quadrature Method

Incremental Differential Quadrature Method (IDQM) as a rapid and accurate method for numerical simulation of Nonlinear Shallow Water (NLSW) waves is employed. To the best of authors’ knowledge, this is the first endeavor to exploit DQM in coastal hydraulics. The one-dimensional NLSW equations and related boundary conditions are discretized in space and temporal directions by DQM rules and the resulting system of equations are used to compute the state variables in the entire computational domain. It was found that the splitting of total simulation time into a number of smaller time increments, could significantly enhance the performance of the proposed method. Furthermore, results of this study show two main advantages for IDQM compared with other conventional methods, namely; unconditional stability and minimal computational effort. Indeed, using IDQM, one can use a few grid points (in spatial or time direction) without imposing any stability condition on the time step to obtain an accurate convergent solution.     

Modelling linear wave transformation induced by dissipative structures—Random waves

The relevant theory is presented and numerical results are compared with the analytical solution for the interaction of non-breaking waves with an array of vertical porous circular cylinders on a horizontal bed. The extension to the cases of unidirectional and multidirectional waves is obtained by means of a transfer function. The influence of the mechanical properties of porous structures and wave irregularity on wave transformation is analysed. Results for unidirectional and multidirectional wave spectra are compared to those obtained for regular waves. The model presented reproduces well the analytical results and provides a tool for analysing several engineering problems.