Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.     

The Levant Slumps and the Phoenician Structures: collapse features along the continental margin of the southeastern Mediterranean Sea

Two distinct series of slumps deform the upper part of the sedimentary sequence along the continental margin of the Levant. One series is found along the base of the continental slope, where it overlies the disrupted eastern edge of the Messinian evaporites. The second series of slumps transects the continental margin from the shelf break to the Levant Basin. It seemed that the two series were triggered by two unrelated, though contemporaneous, processes. The shore-parallel slumps were initiated by basinwards flow of the Messinian salt, that carried along the overlying Plio-Quaternary sediments. Seawater that percolated along the detachment faults dissolved the underlying salt to form distinctly disrupted structures. The slope-normal slumps are located on top of large canyons that cut into the pre-Messinian sedimentary rocks. A layer of salt is found in the canyons, and the Plio-Quaternary sediments were deposited on that layer. The slumps are bounded by large, NW-trending faults where post-Messinian faulted offset was measured. We presume that the flow of the salt in the canyons also drives the slope-normal slumps. Thus thin-skinned halokynetic processes generated the composite post-Tortonian structural patterns of the Levant margin. The Phoenician Structures are a prime example of the collapse of a distal continental margin due to the dissolution of a massive salt layer.     

东海陆架北部表层细粒级沉积物的级配及意义

本文依据东海陆架北部 2 3个表层沉积物样品的粒度分析资料 ,就东海陆架北部表层细粒级沉积物的级配及意义进行了研究。结果表明 ,研究区表层沉积物中细粒级部分以 <0 .0 16 mm为优势粒级 ,可占到总细粒级沉积物的 75 %以上。济州岛西南泥质区以细于 0 .0 0 8mm粒级的沉积物占据优势 ,长江口泥质区则以 <0 .0 16 mm粒级的沉积物为主 ,两泥质区细粒级沉积物的级配很不相同     

青藏高原东部多年冻土退化对环境的影响

退化是本区多年冻土变化的基本趋势，不同区段退化幅度有差异，影响退化的因素除了全球气候转暖外，还有局地气候和地下水迳流。在退化敏感的地带，工程建设，牧区生态平衡都有不可忽视的影响。     

南海波高熵和风速熵

根据风速的统计分布，给出了有因次风速熵和无因次风速熵的定义及其计算方法，使用ＧＥＯＳＡＴ高度计１９８６年１１月－１９８９年２月的有效波高和风速的资料，计算，分析了南海海域上的波高熵，风速熵，给出它们的时间变化特征和空间变化特征，并对不同随机量的无因次熵，即随机度进行了比较。     

Spatial and Temporal Variations of Sound Speed at the PN Section

Gridded sound speed data were calculated using Del Grosso's formulation from the temperature and salinity data at the PN section in the East China Sea covering 92 cruises between February 1978 and October 2000. The vertical gradients of sound speed are mainly related to the seasonal variations, and the strong horizontal gradients are mainly related to the Kuroshio and the upwelling. The standard deviations show that great variations of sound speed exist in the upper layer and in the slope zone. Empirical orthogonal function analysis shows that contributions of surface heating and the Kuroshio to sound speed variance are almost equivalent. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Analytically derived wind-wave directional spectrum part 1. Derivation of the spectrum

In contrast with the usual method to obtain the wind-wave directional spectrum by multiplying the frequency spectrum with an empirical directional function, the authors attempt to derive analytically the directional spectrum by adopting proper spectral form and using effective parameters, namely, the zero order momentm ₀ of the wind-wave frequency spectrumS(), its peak frequency ₀ and the so-called peakness factorP=₀ S(₀)/m ₀, where is angular frequency. The directional spectrum is given in a form of frequency spectrum for each direction. The spectral directionality depends on, in addition to frequency, the wind-wave growth status, for the peakness factorP as introduced by the authors previously is a measure of the wave development stage. The salient features of the directional spectrum, comparison with existing formulas and the verification of the spectrum by observational data are to be given in the Part 2 of the paper.Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.     

1976年夏季东海陆架区浮游植物生态的研究

关于东海浮游植物,虽然国内、外都有人进行过一些调査研究,取得一些成果,但因调查时间较短或调查范围較小所获资料不全,都未能代表东海浮游植物的全貌。中国科学院海洋研究所继全国海洋综合调査之后,自1976年夏季又在东海陆架区进行了综合调查。这次调查，分析了东海浮游植物的个体数量和种数的分布状况,讨论了其主要种类的生态性质、群落组成和它们与水文环境的关系,对东海浮游植物的生态状况有了进一步了解。 1976年夏季在东海陆架区进行了两次(6月25日至7月23日和8月27日至9月21日)调查,调查范围南到北纬26°30′,东到东经127°,在沿纬度安排的6个断面共44个测站上(第一航次还在黄海南部增加一斜断面),分別进行了水文观测,并用网目为64平方微米的小型浮游生物网(Juday phytoplankton net),从水底到表面垂直拖网进行浮游植物采样,以个体计数法计数分析。     

银川盆地中更新世以来的孢粉记录及古气候研究

银川盆地中更新世以来的孢粉记录及据此所重建的古气候参数，揭示了该区中更新世以来的古气候演变特征，其演变经过了温湿→凉湿→温和→冷湿→温干→凉较湿→冷湿→温干→凉润→温较干→温干的变化，并与新疆地区，黄土高原以及深海δ^18O曲线进行了对比，结果表明，各地的古环境变化大致同步，该区由于位置靠西，邻近沙漠，最近地质历史时期的区域性干旱特色明显。     

中国近海海水中几种微量金属离子的分布研究

中国近海海水中的锌等微量元素，尚未进行过较为广泛而可靠的分布研究。极为零星的资料，还是近几年来在沿岸进行污染调查时，用陈旧的方法测定的。 世界海洋海水中微量元素的含量，不同文献报道的数据，常有一定的差别。这是自然变化，抑方法误差(包括所测形态)，是值得研究的。 本文采用单池示差反向极谱法，比较广泛而可靠地研究了中国近海海水中,锌等微量，元素的离子(和不稳定络合物)的地球化学分布。测定锌、铅、铜、镉时，样品不加任何试剂，因而避免了元素存在形态的转移及被测离子的带入或损失。