An identification of wave propagation based on a single-point measurement

This study presents the identification of wave propagation using the information measured at a fixed point. The mathematical model used to carry out this research is an integral equation. The equation turned out to be a Fredholm integral equation of the first kind. The discretized matrix equation yielded an ill-conditioned system. To secure the stability of the system, Tikhonov regularization was applied to the ill-conditioned system. The analysis of the numerical computation proved that the regularization was able to retain the target spectrum.     

Propagation and run-up of nearshore tsunamis with HLLC approximate Riemann solver

A numerical model describing the propagation and run-up process of nearshore tsunamis in the vicinity of shorelines is developed based on an approximate Riemann solver. The governing equations of the model are the nonlinear shallow-water equations. The governing equations are discretized explicitly by using a finite volume method. The nonlinear terms in the momentum equations are solved with the Harten-Lax-van Leer-Contact (HLLC) approximate Riemann solver. The developed model is first applied to prediction of water motions in a parabolic basin, and propagation and subsequent run-up process of nearshore tsunamis around a circular island. Computed results are then compared with available analytical solutions and laboratory measurements. Very reasonable agreements are observed.     

Role of Siliceous Fossil Dissolution in Downcore Variations of Grain Size and Water Content: Western Margin of Clarion-Clipperton Fracture Zone, NE Equatorial Pacific

Grain size and water content in box-core sediments from the Clarion-Clipperton fracture zone (C-C zone) in the northeast equatorial Pacific were analyzed in detail to understand the downcore variations across a hiatus between Quaternary and Tertiary layers. Grain-size distributions in the topmost core sediments show two modes: a coarse mode (peaked at 50 μm) and a fine mode (at 2-25 μm). The coarse mode disappears gradually with depth accompanied by the dissolution of siliceous fossil tests, whereas the fine mode coarsens due to the formation of authigenic minerals. Water content increases abruptly across a color boundary between an upper pale brown layer and a lower dark brown layer that is the hiatus between Quaternary and Tertiary layers. Abundant smectites and microvoid molds, which are created by the prolonged fossil dissolution in the underlying sediment, are attributed for the abrupt downcore variation of water content. Overall variations in grain size and water content in the topmost core sediments in the western C-C zone are possibly constrained by the dissolution of biogenic siliceous fossils. Variations in geotechnical properties related to these changes must be considered in the design of nodule collectors.     

Image processing for video images of buoy motion

In this paper, image processing technique that reduces video images of buoy motion to yield time series of image coordinates of buoy objects will be investigated. The buoy motion images are noisy due to time-varying brightness as well as non-uniform background illumination. The occurrence of boats, wakes, and wind-induced white caps interferes significantly in recognition of buoy objects. Thus, semiautomated procedures consisting of object recognition and image measurement aspects will be conducted. These offer more satisfactory results than a manual process. Spectral analysis shows that the image coordinates of buoy objects represent wave motion well, indicating its usefulness in the analysis of wave characteristics.     

A nonlinear wave profile correction of the diffraction of a wave by a long breakwater: Fixed point approach

The authors of the present paper have suggested an iterative scheme to calculate the nonlinear wave profiles [Jang and Kwon, 2005. Application of nonlinear iteration scheme to the nonlinear water wave problem: Stokes wave. Ocean Engineering 32, 1862–1872]. The scheme was shown to be good for estimating nonlinear wave profiles. In the study, the iterative scheme is applied to the wave-diffraction problem by a long breakwater to calculate a diffracted wave by the breakwater. The iterative solution of diffraction was compared with the linear solution of Sommerfeld, 1896. [Mathematische Theoried der Diffraction. Mathematical Annals 47, 317–374]. For a small wave slope, the two solutions were in good agreement. However, the scheme enabled us to observe the nonlinear behaviors of a beating phenomenon and of wave profile such as Stokes’ wave for a relatively large wave slope: as the wave slope becomes larger, we can examine the nonlinear wave characteristics of the actual shapes of waves, i.e., the crests are steeper and the troughs are flatter.     

Strength Characteristics of the Cement-Stabilized Surface Layer in Dredged and Reclaimed Marine Clay, Korea

A series of tests in both laboratory and field were performed to investigate the engineering and mechanical properties, especially flexural strength, of cement-stabilized soils. The strength of cement-stabilized soils mainly depends on water-to-cement ratio and curing temperature. The higher curing temperature and the longer curing time, the higher strength in cement-stabilized soils generates. The high ratio of water-to-cement results in lower strength. The compressive strength observed in the field is similar to the strength in the laboratory. Field tests on a cement-stabilized soil layer indicate that the strength is significantly affected by the thickness of the improved layer, which is directly related to the moment of inertia. In addition, the failure shape observed in a cement-stabilized layer in the field looks likes a bending failure type, because the flexural tensile strength, rather than the compressive strength, mainly dominates the failure of cement-stabilized layer. The flexural tensile strength is closely related to the moment of inertia. Therefore, the flexural tensile strength should be considered for determining the thickness and strength in improvement of soft clay.     

Acute toxicity of heavy metals, tributyltin, ammonia and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons to benthic amphipodgrandidierella japonica

Benthic amphipod,Grandidierella japonica widely inhabits the Korean coastal waters and is developed as a standard test species for sediment toxicity tests. We exposedG . japonica to various pollutants including 4 kinds of inorganic metals (Ag, Cd, Cu and Hg), tributyltin [TBT], ammonia and 7 polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon (PAH) compounds (acenaphthene, chrysene, fluoranthene, fluorene, naphthalene, phenanthrene and pyrene) to estimate the no observed effect concentration (NOEC) and the median lethal concentration (LC50) of each pollutant during the 96-hour acute exposure. Among all tested pollutants, TBT was most toxic toG. japonica, and Hg was most toxic among inorganic metals. The toxicity of pyrene toG. japonica was greatest among PAH compounds, followed by fluoranthene, phenanathrene, acenaphthene, fluorene and naphthalene. The toxicity of PAH compounds was closely related to their physico-chemical characteristics such as K_ow and water solubility.G. japonica responded adequately to pollutant concentrations and exposure durations, and the sensitivity ofG. japonica to various inorganic and organic pollutants was generally comparable to other amphipods used as standard test species in ecotoxicological studies, indicating this species can be applied in the assessment of environments polluted by various harmful substances.     

Numerical Experiments of the Influences of the Transport Variation through the Korea Strait on the Japan/East Sea Upper Layer Circulation

Numerical experiments were performed in order to investigate the effects of variations of the transport through the Korea/Tsushima Strait, an inlet of the Japan/East Sea, on the upper layer circulation in the JES based on a 10-month transport observation from May 1999 to March 2000 (Perkins et al., 2000). All external forcings to the model were annual mean fields, except the transport variation through the Korea Strait. In the experiments where the periodic variation of the transport repeated continuously sinusoidally by several periods, strong variability of sea surface height (SSH) was detected in the region extending from the Korea Strait to the Japanese coast due to the geostrophy of the buoyancy forcing at the Korea Strait. The region along the Korean coast is more sensitive to the long-term variations than the short-term (≤60-day period) ones. In two experiments forced by realistic and monthly mean transport, the difference of rms of sea surface height was largest at the Japanese coast and relatively large at the East Korean Warm Current separation region (128∼130°E, 39∼41°N) and to the east of Yamato Rise. The distribution of difference of eddy kinetic energy at 100 m depth between the two experiments was similar to that of the rms of SSH. In the distributions of mean SSH and mean kinetic energy at 100 m depth the realistic transport invokes eddy variability to interact with mean current resulting in the changes of the mean SSH and the mean kinetic energy at the East Korean Warm Current separation region, but it does not produce conspicuous changes in the mean fields of entire JES compared with the mean fields forced by the seasonal transport.