Analysis of velocity profile measurements from wind-tunnel experiments with saltation

Investigations of wind-field modification due to the presence of saltating sediments have relied heavily on wind tunnels, which are known to impose geometric constraints on full boundary layer development. There remains great uncertainty as to which portion of the vertical wind-speed profile to analyze when deriving estimates of shear velocity or surface roughness length because the lower sections are modified to varying degree by saltation, whereas the upper segments may be altered by artificially induced wake-like effects. Thus, it is not obvious which of several alternative velocity-profile parameterizations (e.g., Law of the Wall, Velocity Defect Law, Wake Law) should be employed under such circumstances.A series of experimental wind-tunnel runs was conducted across a range of wind speed using fine- and coarse-grained sand to collect high-quality, fine-resolution data within and above the saltation layer using thermal anemometry and ruggedized probes. After each run, the rippled bottom was fixed with fine mist, and the experiment repeated without saltation. The measured wind-speed profiles were analyzed using six different approaches to derive estimates of shear velocity and roughness length. The results were compared to parameter estimates derived directly from sediment transport rate measurements, and on this basis, it is suggested that one of the six approaches is more robust than the others. Specifically, the best estimate of shear velocity during saltation is provided by the logarithmic law applied to the profile data within about 0.05 m of the bottom, despite the fact that this near-surface region is where profile modification by saltating sediments is most pronounced. Uncertainty remains as to whether this conclusion can be generalized to field situations because progressive downwind adjustments in the interrelationship between the saltation layer and the wind field are anticipated in wind tunnels, thereby confounding most analyses based on equilibrium assumptions.     

Barrier response to sea level rise and storms

This commentary brings together, as a Virtual Special Issue, several recent papers in Earth Surface Processes and Landforms that improve our understanding of coastal barrier response to relative sea level rise and a change in the frequency and/or magnitude of storm events. The ability to predict barrier response depends on the ability to quantify the spatial and temporal scales of sediment exchange amongst the nearshore, beach and dune. This exchange controls the height of the dune, which in turn determines the transfer of sediment to the backbarrier through washover and/or blowouts. The papers in this issue provide new insight on beach–dune interaction and the importance of this interaction to long‐term barrier evolution across a range of sites and scales, and how active management can influence this interaction and alter barrier response. Copyright © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Comparison of methods used for computing the impact of sound on the marine environment

Concern about the impact of sound on marine mammals has increased over the last decade, causing governments to take a more rigorous look at the potential impact of activities that introduce sound into the ocean. Environmental Impact Statements (EIS's) can be prepared using differing analysis methods to estimate the impact on marine mammals. To assess consistency in assessment methods, differences in the base assumptions were investigated; in particular, differences that arise between assumptions of dynamic marine mammals (animat method) and static distributions of marine mammals (static distribution method). Using several ocean environment scenarios and species, it is demonstrated that differences consistently arise between the two methods. The static distribution method underestimates the number of behavioral harassments compared with the animat method. Repeating many simulations with the animat method provides a robust risk assessment, provides a measure of variability, and allows the probability of "spurious events" to be estimated.     

Observed and simulated water and energy budget components at SCAN sites in the lower Mississippi Basin

Land surface models are typically constrained by one or a few observed variables, while assuming that the internal water and energy partitioning is sensitive to those observed variables and realistic enough to simulate unobserved variables. To verify these assumptions, in situ soil climate analysis network (SCAN) observations in the Lower Mississippi Basin (2002–2008) are analysed to quantify water and energy budget components and they are compared to Community Land Model (CLM3·5) simulations. The local soil texture is identified as a major indicator for water storage characteristics and the Normalized Difference Vegetation Index shows potential as a drought indicator in summer months. Both observations and simulations indicate a regime where, except in some summer months, evapotranspiration controls soil moisture. CLM simulations with different soil texture assignments show discharge sensitivity to soil moisture, but almost no impact on evapotranspiration and other energy balance components. The observed and simulated water budgets show a similar partitioning. However, the SCAN observed water balance does not close because of precipitation measurement errors, unobserved irrigation, lack of specific storage change measurements and errors in the computed actual evapotranspiration. The simulated heat flux partitioning differs from that ‘observed’, with a larger (resp. smaller) fraction of net radiation being used by latent (resp. sensible) heat flux, and unobserved freeze and thaw events. The comparison between observations and model simulations suggests that a consistent observation collection for multiple variables would be needed to constrain and improve the full set of land surface variable estimates. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The psychology of beach users: importance of confirmation bias,action, and intention to improving rip current safety

Natural Hazards - The rip current hazard on beaches is a global public health issue. While physical controls on rip current formation and flow behavior are relatively well understood, there has...     

Erosion and reorientation of the Sapodilla Cays,Mesoamerican Reef Belize from 1960 to 2012

The Sapodilla Cays Marine Reserve in southern Belize includes nine low-relief sand cays that were first surveyed in 1960. The purpose of this study is to reconstruct a 52-year history of the Sapodilla Cays (1960–2012) using a combination of historical topographic surveys, satellite imagery, and additional field data collection. Results suggest that the majority of islands are eroding with some islands having lost over 70% of their area, and many have become swash aligned, which suggests limited sediment availability. The proportion of area lost on each island is related to the width of the reef platform (to the 5?m isobaths) in the direction of the reef edge, while island area is dependent on the width of the reef platform in the direction of the resultant wind. This suggests that the width of the reef platform is a primary determinant of sediment supply between storms that tend to erode the eastern shoreline of the island through refraction along the reef edge. While storm erosion tends to be concentrated along the eastern shoreline through the loss of sediment offshore, alongshore transport to the lagoon shoreline, and the transfer of sediment to the interior of the island, net shoreline retreat is greatest along the lagoon, suggesting that the relatively small winter “northers” and a lack of sediment supply from the reef lagoon are responsible for the observed erosion. Extrapolations based on contemporary loss-rates suggest that the smallest cays will disappear by 2020, while the largest cays will begin to disappear by the end of century.     

Nearshore circulation over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing

There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in‐situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (H_s/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2<H_s/ h<0.5) the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative (H_s/h>0.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore‐meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of ~0.4 m s^‐1) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low‐energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.