Extreme storm surge modelling in the North Sea

This study shows that storm surge model performance in the North Sea is mostly unaffected by the application of temporal variations of surface drag due to changes in sea state provided the choice of a suitable constant Charnock parameter in the sea-state-independent case. Including essential meteorological features on smaller scales and minimising interpolation errors by increasing forcing data resolution are shown to be more important for the improvement of model performance particularly at the high tail of the probability distribution. This is found in a modelling study using WAQUA/DCSMv5 by evaluating the influence of a realistic air-sea momentum transfer parameterization and comparing it to the influence of changes in the spatial and temporal resolution of the applied forcing fields in an effort to support the improvement of impact and climate analysis studies. Particular attention is given to the representation of extreme water levels over the past decades based on the example of the Netherlands. For this, WAQUA/DCSMv5 is forced with ERA-Interim reanalysis data. Model results are obtained from a set of different forcing fields, which either (i) include a wave-state-dependent Charnock parameter or (ii) apply a constant Charnock parameter (α _{C h} =?0.032) tuned for young sea states in the North Sea, but differ in their spatial and/or temporal resolution. Increasing forcing field resolution from roughly 79 to 12 km through dynamically downscaling can reduce the modelled low bias, depending on coastal station, by up to 0.25 m for the modelled extreme water levels with a 1-year return period and between 0.1 m and 0.5 m for extreme surge heights.     

Temporal and spatial statistics of travelling eddy variability in the South China Sea

Ocean Dynamics - The variability across decades of years of migrating eddy activities in the South China Sea (SCS) has not yet been documented. We employ a daily global eddy-resolving (0.1°)...     

Holocene sedimentary and environmental development of Aarhus Bay,Denmark – a multi-proxy study

Holocene sedimentation patterns and environmental development in Aarhus Bay, Denmark, were reconstructed based on proxy analyses of two sediment cores (M1 and M5). Together, the two cores offer an opportunity to examine the history of the area during the past c. 10 000 years. The investigation consisted of acoustic mapping and multi-proxy analyses of the sediment cores including macrofossils, sediment physical properties, sediment accumulation rates, grain size, and X-ray fluorescence elemental counts. Radiocarbon dating of the two sediment successions revealed that they cover the periods c. 10 000–3700 cal. a BP (M1) and c. 4400 cal. a BP to the present (M5). The data from the M1 site indicate the presence of a near-shore lake environment between c. 10 000 and 9000 cal. a BP. The first intrusion of marine water into the area is dated to c. 9000 cal. a BP. In the following c. 1300 years, brackish-water conditions prevailed in the area characterized by a mixture of taxa from marine, limnic and terrestrial habitats, reflecting a shallow estuarine environment. Around 7700 cal. a BP full marine conditions were established, accompanied by a marked increase in sedimentation rates. The changes to full marine conditions and higher sedimentation rates are probably due to a significant sea-level rise leading to flooding of former land areas and intensified erosion. A subsequent distinct decrease in sedimentation rates around 6350 cal. a BP is presumably linked to a previously documented sea-level drop about this time. Continuous sedimentation ceased around 3700 cal. a BP in the central part of the bay, most probably due to a major sea-level lowering involving widespread erosion. In the eastern and deeper part of the bay, sedimentation continued until today. Fully marine conditions prevailed there for at least the last 4400 years.     

Phosphorus input by upwelling in the eastern Gotland Basin (Baltic Sea) in summer and its effects on filamentous cyanobacteria

In July 2007, phosphorus input by an upwelling event along the east coast of Gotland Island and the response of filamentous cyanobacteria were studied to determine whether introduced phosphorus can intensify cyanobacterial bloom formation in the eastern Gotland Basin. Surface temperature, nutrient concentrations, phytoplankton biomass and its stoichiometry, as well as phosphate uptake rates were determined in two transects between the coasts of Gotland and Latvia and in a short grid offshore of Gotland. In the upwelling area, surface temperatures of 11–12 °C and average dissolved inorganic phosphorus (DIP) concentrations of 0.26 μM were measured. Outside the upwelling, surface temperatures were higher (15.5–16.6 °C) and DIP supplies in the upper 10 m layer were exhausted. Nitrite and nitrate concentrations (0.01–0.22 μM) were very low within and outside the upwelling region. Abundances of filamentous cyanobacteria were highly reduced in the upwelling area, accounting for only 1.4–6.0% of the total phytoplankton biomass, in contrast to 18–20% outside the upwelling. The C:P ratio of filamentous cyanobacteria varied between 32.8 and 310 in the upwelling region, most likely due to the introduction of phosphorus-depleted organisms into the upwelling water. These organisms accumulate DIP in upwelling water and have lower C:P ratios as long as they remain in DIP-rich water. Thus, diazotrophic cyanobacteria benefit from phosphorus input directly in the upwelling region. Outside the upwelling region, the C:P ratios of filamentous cyanobacteria varied widely, between 240 and 463, whereas those of particulate material in the water ranged only between 96 and 224. To reduce their C:P ratio from 300 to 35, cyanobacteria in the upwelling region had to take up 0.05 mmol m⁻³ DIP, which is about 20% of the available DIP. Thus, a larger biomass of filamentous cyanobacteria may be able to benefit from a given DIP input. As determined from the DIP uptake rates measured in upwelling cells, the time needed to reduce the C:P ratio from 300 to 35 was too long to explain the huge bloom formations that typically occur in summer. However, phosphorus uptake rates increased significantly with increasing C:P ratios, allowing phosphorus accumulation within 4–5 days, a span of time suitable for bloom formation in July and August.     

Geometry-free undifferenced, single and double differenced analysis of single frequency GPS, EGNOS and GIOVE-A/B measurements

This paper demonstrates a geometry-free GNSS measurement analysis approach and presents results of single frequency GPS, EGNOS and GIOVE short and zero baseline measurements. The purpose is to separate the different contributions to the measurement noise of pseudo range code and carrier phase observations at the receiver. The influence of multipath on the different combinations of observations is also determined. Quantitative results are presented for the thermal code and phase measurement noise and for the correlation between the observations. Comparison of the results with theoretical approximations confirms the validity of the used approach. Results from field measurements clearly show less thermal noise on the Galileo E1BC observations than on the GPS L1C/A observations due to the new signal modulation. The feasibility of ambiguity resolution with a geometry-free model is also discussed including the significant impact of multipath thereon.     

Pilot assessment of depth related distribution of macrofauna in surf zone along Dutch coast and its implications for coastal management

Surf zones are highly dynamic, physically stressful parts of sandy beach ecosystems. The high wave energy of surf zones has in the past severely hampered ecological surveys of these systems. Here we used a novel technique to collect fauna from this environment along the Dutch coast. A large vehicle in the form a tripod that drives along the sandy seafloor and supports a sampling platform 11 m above the water line can collect both infaunal (grabs) samples and pull beam trawls for epibenthos. The distribution and diversity of macrofauna were studied at different depths in the surf zone along the Dutch coast. Species diversity and abundance increased with increasing depth of the water column. This increase was especially noticeable on the seaward side of the outer breaker bar. Within the surf zone, in the trough between the two breaker bars, there were spots of high diversity and abundance of macrobenthic infauna. Moreover, the area is also important for epibenthic and fish species, like the commercially important flatfish sole. Spatial patterns of species richness and abundance across an onshore-offshore gradient from the beach to seawards of the breakers suggest the presence of faunal zonation in this environment. The high abundance recorded in troughs was primarily caused by patches of juvenile Sand mason Lanice conchilega. The management implications of these results are that we suggest to protect the surf zone, including the trough between the two breaker bars, as a potential area of high diversity and abundance and to reconsider the objectives of the EU-Habitat Directive and the Water Framework Directive for the coastal area.     

A dynamic equation for the potential energy anomaly for analysing mixing and stratification in estuaries and coastal seas

In this paper, a time-dependent dynamic equation for the potential energy anomaly, , is rigorously derived from dynamic equations for potential temperature and salinity, the continuity equation and the equation of state for sea water. The terms locally changing are (A) the -advection, (B) the depth-mean straining, (C) the non-mean straining, (D) the vertical advection, (E) the vertical mixing, (F) surface and bottom density fluxes, (G) inner sources of density e.g. due to absorption of solar radiation and the non-linearity of the equation of state, and (H) horizontal divergence of horizontal turbulent density fluxes. In order to derive the equation in concise form, a vertical velocity (linearly varying with depth) with respect to depth-proportional vertical coordinates had to be defined. The evaluation of the terms in the -equation is then carried out for a one-dimensional tidal straining study and a two-dimensional estuarine circulation study. Comparisons to empirical estimates for these terms are made for the one-dimensional study. It is concluded that the -equation provides a general reference for empirical bulk parameterisations of stratification and mixing processes in estuaries and coastal seas and that it is a tool for complete analysis of the relevant terms from numerical models.     

Seasonal phytoplankton composition, productivity and biomass in the Neuse River estuary, North Carolina

Phytoplankton community composition, productivity and biomass characteristics of the mesohaline lower Neuse River estuary were assessed monthly from May 1988 to February 1990. An incubation method which considered water-column mixing and variable light exposure was used to determine phytoplankton primary productivity. The summer productivity peaks in this shallow estuary were stimulated by increases in irradiance and temperature. However, dissolved inorganic nitrogen loading was the major factor controlling ultimate yearly production. Dynamic, unpredictable rainfall events determined magnitudes of seasonal production pulses through nitrogen loading, and helped determine phytoplankton species composition. Dinoflagellates occasionally bloomed but were otherwise present in moderate numbers; rainfall events produced large pulses of cryptomonads, and dry seasons and subsequent higher salinity led to dominance by small centric diatoms. Daily production was strongly correlated (r = 0·82) with nitrate concentration and inversely correlated (r = −0·73) with salinity, while nitrate and salinity were inversely correlated (r = −0·71), emphasizing the importance of freshwater input as a nutrient-loading source to the lower estuary. During 1989 mean daily areal phytoplankton production was 938 mgC m⁻², mean chlorophyll a was 11·8 mg m⁻³, and mean phytoplankton density was 1·56 × 10³ cells ml⁻¹. Estimated 1989 annual areal phytoplankton production for the lower estuary was 343 gC m⁻².