A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.     

Calibration of JASON-1 Altimeter over Lake Erie

This article describes absolute calibration results for both JASON-1 and TOPEX Side B (TSB) altimeters obtained at the Lake Erie calibration site, Marblehead, Ohio, USA. Using 15 overflights, the estimated JASON altimeter bias at Marblehead is 58 ± 38 mm, with an uncertainty of 19 mm based on detailed error analysis. Assuming that the TSB bias is negligible, relative bias estimates using both data from the TSB-JASON formation flight period and data from 48 water level gauges around the entire Great Lakes confirmed the Marblehead results. Global analyses using both the formation flight data and dual-satellite (TSB and JASON) crossovers yield a similar relative bias estimate of 146 ± 59 mm, which agrees well with open ocean absolute calibration results obtained at Harvest, Corsica, and Bass Strait (e.g., Watson et al. 2003). We find that there is a strong dependence of bias estimates on the choice of sea state bias (SSB) models. Results indicate that the invariant JASON instrument bias estimated oceanwide is 71 mm, with additional biases of 76 mm or 28 mm contributed by the choice of Collecte Localisation Satellites (CLS) SSB or Center for Space Research (CSR) SSB model, respectively. Similar analysis in the Great Lakes yields the invariant JASON instrument bias at 19 mm, with the SSB contributed biases at 58 mm or 13 mm, respectively. The reason for the discrepancy is currently unknown and warrants further investigation. Finally, comparison of the TOPEX/POSEIDON mission (1992-2002) data with the Great Lakes water level gauge measurements yields a negligible TOPEX altimeter drift of 0.1 mm/yr.     

法国“阿塔郎特”号海洋调查船上的重力取样

在海洋地质调查中，如何取得好的沉积物样品是每一位海洋地质学家所向往的，而获得好的沉积物样品的关键又很大程度上取决于先进的海洋调查仪器的使用。法国“阿塔郎特”号海洋调查船上的重力取样管不管在性能上，还是安全性上都瞰称世界上比较先进的取样设备。     

黄海的风、潮混合特征及其对冷水团边界的影响

本文第一作者早在1985年就提出,潮混合效应控制着夏季黄海冷水团的边界及海面冷水分布(赵保仁,1985)。1987年又进一步通过水文调査资料和卫星图片给出了黄海周围的浅水陆架锋(或称潮汐锋)的分布及强锋区的跨锋断面中的温度、盐度和坏流结构特征,并指出夏季的黄海沿岸流在性质上属沿锋面运动的强流(赵保仁,1987a,b),而后又对黄海西部的陆架锋进行了一次专门调査(赵保仁等,1991)。此外,他还指出黄海的强温跃层的形成和转移现象也与潮混合现象密切相关(赵保仁,1989)。因此,研究潮混合现象对阐明发生在黄海的多水文物理现象都是至关重要的。 为深入了解黄海的潮混合特征,作者把渤海、黄海和东海作为一个整体完成了一次精度较高的潮汐、溯流数值计算,在潮汐、潮流的分布方面,揭示了前人尚未阐明的一些特征。本文根据这些数值结果,计算了近最大潮流流速和层化参数,阐明了渤海、黄海和东海的潮混合特征及其对降温期黄海冷水团分布变化的影响。此外,还用 Sim pson等人(1981)的能量模式计算了南黄海西部的风、潮混合效率。     

On low-pass digital filters in oceanography

-Two types of filters are widely used to remove semidirunal and diurnal tidal signals and other high frequency noises in oceanography. The first type of filters uses moving average with weights in time domain, and can be easily operated. Some data will be lost at each end of the time series, especially for the low low-pass filters. The second type of filters uses the discrete Fourier transform filter (DFTF) which operates in the frequency domain, and there are no data loss at the ends for the forward transform. However, owing to the Gibbs phenomenon and the discrete sampling (Nyquist effect) , ringing appears in the inverse transformed data, which is especially serious at each end. Thus some data at the ends are also discarded. The present study tries to find out what causes the ringing and then to seek for methods to overcome the ringing. We have found that there are two kinds of ringings, one is the Gibbs phenomenon, as defined before. The other is the "Nyquist"ringing due to sampling Nyquist critical     

黄河三角洲桩西101站潮沟地貌形态及其水动力学研究

在潮沟下游，横跨且生趣与潮沟的横断面设了５个观测站，进行了２４ｈ的水动力测量。结果表明，涨落潮流速流向不对称，在潮沟内，涨落潮流流速差别很大，涨潮流流速最大为９ｃｍ／２，而落潮流流速最大可达３８ｃｍ／ｓ。据推测，潮沟内之所以落潮流流速明显大于涨潮流流速，可能是由于潮沟与岸线斜交有关。     

工程风险分析中的风险当量及其评价标准

目前，量化、半量化风险分析是工程风险分析的主流。在对工程进行量化和半量化风险分析时，无论采用什么方法，风险评价指标和评价标准都是关键的重要问题。只有在建立了统一的评价指标和评价标准体系的基础上，对工程进行的风险分析能够得出正确和一致的结论。文章通过对国内外风险分析理论和实践的研究和总结，提出了在工程风险分析中确定风险评价指标和评价标准的原则和方法。     

自适应馈线保护在胜利海上平台供电系统中的应用研究

介绍了自适应电流保护原理在胜利海上平台供电系统中的应用。应用该原理的电流保护克服了传统电流保护一成不变的定值、受系统运行方式和短路类型的影响较大等缺点，它充分发挥了微机的记忆、逻辑判断、数学运算等强大的功能，提供实时计算保护装设处到系统等效电源间的阻抗，通过不断监视负荷电流来自动整定过流保护，并引入了反时限特性，解决了实际存在的技术问题，使得保护装置灵敏可靠。     

Modelling of flow around a near-bed pipeline with a spoiler

Flow around a pipeline with and without a spoiler near a smooth wall is simulated by solving the Navier–Stokes equations. Finite-difference formulation with a second-order upwind scheme in a curvilinear coordinate system is employed. The influences of the spoiler on hydrodynamic forces, pressure distribution, vortex shedding frequency, velocity profile under the pipe, as well as shear stress on the wall are investigated. The attachment of a spoiler significantly increases drag, root-mean-square (RMS) lift, flow through the gap between the pipe and the wall and shear stress on the seabed around the pipe. The spoiler also generates a non-zero mean downward force on the pipeline, which may enhance the self-burial of the pipeline.     

Numerical simulation of solitary wave scattering by a circular cylinder array

The interaction of a solitary wave with an array of surface-piercing vertical circular cylinders is investigated numerically. The wave motion is modeled by a set of generalized Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are discretized using a finite element method. The numerical model is validated against the experimental data of solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall and solitary wave scattering by a vertical circular cylinder respectively. The predicted wave surface elevation and the wave forces on the cylinder agree well with the experimental data. The numerical model is then employed to study solitary wave scattering by arrays of two circular cylinders and four circular cylinders respectively. The effect of wave direction on the wave forces and the wave runup on the cylinders is quantified.