Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery

While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Response of the blue mussel Mytilus edulis L. following exposure to PAHs or contaminated sediment

The polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons fluoranthene and benzo(a)pyrene significantly reduced the feeding rate of mussels. For both compounds the tissue concentration resulting in a 50% reduction of the clearance rate (TEC₅₀) was calculated. At high tissue concentrations both aromatic compounds reduced the tolerance of mussels to aerial exposure, whereas at low tissue concentrations an improved response was noticed. The activities of the antioxidant enzymes Superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase were elevated only at low tissue concentrations of fluoranthene and benzo(a)pyrene. At the highest measured tissue concentrations the activity of both enzymes was reduced, possibly due to a narcotic effect. The reproductive success rate of mussels appeared to be affected negatively by the investigated hydrocarbons. The results of a pilot experiment indicate that mussels can be used also for the testing of contaminated sediments.     

Seasonality in nutrient concentrations in Galveston Bay

In order to investigate factors controlling nutrient cycling in the shallow and turbid coastal ecosystem of Galveston Bay, data from: (1) the Texas Water Commission (TWC) database 1980–1989, and (2) salinity transects in 1989 and 1993 are presented and analyzed. Statistical regression and time-series analysis were carried out on data acquired by TWC between 1980 and 1989, in an attempt to establish seasonally of nutrient and chlorophyll-a (chl.-a.) concentrations in the bay and to determine factors which regulate these concentrations.A strong seasonality was found for phosphorus and chl.-a. in the upper and mid-bay stations. A recurring maximum for phosphate occurred in September and a chl.-a. maximum occurred regularly in March–April. It is hypothesized that benthic regeneration of phosphorus at the end of summer is responsible for the phosphate maximum. The inverse correlation of the partition coefficient (K_d) for phosphate with the concentration of suspended particulate matter (SPM), coupled to a strong enrichment of phosphate in suspended particles at low SPM concentrations, indicates additional control by geochemical and physical processes such as particle sorting and/or particle-colloid interactions. Nitrate is inversely correlated with salinity at the upper and mid-bay stations, indicating the Trinity River is a major source.Nutrient concentrations in the lower bay (East and West Bay stations) are considerably lower and less predictable, as they are not correlated with salinity or temperature. Data from the 1989 and 1993 transects confirm the yearly maximum in phosphate concentration in late summer months, with peak concentrations in the upper Trinity Bay. It is concluded that despite possible phosphate buffering by physical and geochemical mechanisms, relatively large concentration maxima recur regularly every year during the summer, possibly caused by a benthic source of phosphate.     

层结流体中的非线性惯性重力内波

根据地球流体力学基本方程组,在密度垂直层结的情况下,引进行波坐标,研究非线性定形波在相平面上的几何拓扑结构。严格论证了不存在定形孤立波,并通过Ｈａｍｉｌｔｏｎ函数及其角作用变把行波系统化成最简形式,由此而得到非线性惯性重力内波的解析解。     

Mid-Holocene evolution and paleoenvironments of the shoreface–offshore transition, north-eastern Argentina: New evidence based on benthic microfauna

A sedimentary record spanning 5792–5511 cal yr BP and 3188–2854 cal yr BP was recovered at 36° 45′ 43″ S–56 ° 37′ 13″ W, south-west South Atlantic. The sedimentological features and micropaleontological (benthic foraminifera and ostracoda) content were analyzed in order to reconstruct paleoenvironmental conditions. Considerable environmental fluctuations are indicated by all these proxies. Five different stages were distinguished: Stage 1 (ca. 5800–5000 cal yr BP) consists of muddy sand with abundant microfossils. In this interval, species typical for inner marine shelf environments maintained a high abundance. Stage 2 consists of plastic light greenish grey clays barren of microfossils, and probably represents fluvial input from the de la Plata River to the shelf contemporaneous of a lowering of sea level. Stage 3 is composed of brownish yellow sandy silts, and represents increasing marine conditions in the area as reflected by higher faunal diversity and typical foraminifera of inner shelf environments. Stage 4 is made of homogeneous mud, barren of microfossil, which represents a new pulse of fluvial input to the shelf in consequence of a new fall in sea level. The final part of the core (Stage 5) is a coarsening upward sequence, grading from greeny brown clayey sandy silts to coarse shelly sands and represents the modern sedimentation in the area. This interpretation strengthens the stepped model of late-Holocene sea-level fall between 5511–5792 cal yr BP and 2854–3188 cal yr BP in Buenos Aires coast, and agrees with the relative sea-level history previously proposed by some authors from western South Atlantic coasts.     

Calculation of the nonlinear energy transfer through the wave spectrum at the sea surface covered with broken ice

The nonlinear energy transfer through the wave spectrum is studied on the basis of the previously obtained explicit equation for matrix elements of a four-wave kinetic integral. The equation describes the evolution of a system of gravity waves at the surface of a sea of finite depth with a uniform distribution of broken ice over the sea surface. Particular attention is paid to the analytical part of the algorithm of the calculation of the kinetic integral. This part differs from the standard algorithm by a set of prominent features of the dispersion relation for wave oscillations in the ice-covered water. The kinetic integral for the system under consideration is calculated, and the results are compared with the results obtained for the ice-free water.     

Age of the western Black Sea basin according to an analysis of the anomalous magnetic field and geological data

Until recently, the ideas about the age of the Black Sea deep-water basin have been based on land geological observations in the coastal areas at the interaction periphery, underwater observations from manned submersibles, and on the data of seismic reflection and refraction studies and drilling. Formerly, the scarcity of the information led to a wide scattering of the age determinations: from the Jurassic to the Eocene. Recently, with the appearance of reliable geological and geophysical data, the range of the age estimates has been considerably reduced during the last few years, although there is no commonly accepted opinion on this issue. Therefore, the first attempt to determine the age of the Western Black Sea basin using an analysis of the anomalous magnetic field is of certain interest. The following results were obtained: the basin probably opened between 71.338 and 71.587 My B.P. (subchron C32n.1r). During the interval 68.737–71.071 My B.P. (subchron C31r), extinction of the spreading axes took place. Thus, the total duration of the Campanian-Maestrichtian phase of the opening was about 3 My (interval from 71.587 to 68.737 My B.P.). This result does not agree with the geological and geophysical data available to date. To solve this problem, collection of new geological data and further studies of the structure of the anomalous magnetic field are required.     

Naming of undersea features

The Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission (IOC), the International Hydrographic Organization (IHO), and the joint IOC/IHO Guiding Committee for the General Bathymetric Chart of the Oceans (GEBCO) have expressed considerable concern about the indiscriminate and unregulated naming of undersea features which often go into print without any close scrutiny. An author may not realize that the feature has a name already, maybe in another language, or that his terminology conflicts with established definitions.Geo-Marine Letters wants to follow the IOC/IHO/GEBCO recommendations and requests that its authors follow the set forth guidelines. Examples of terms and definitions are given and addresses of national authorities provided.     

An overview and general results of the Lopez island OBS experiment

The purpose of the experiment was to determine the effects of coupling and bottom currents on ocean bottom seismometers. Twelve operational OBSs, three specially designed three-component systems, and a hydrophone were compared with each other. Unlike seismometers placed on hard rock at land stations, ocean bottom seismometers can be affected by soft sediments (which act as lossy mechanical springs) and by buoyancy. Coupling through soft sediments can modify the response to ground motion much as a low pass filter does, and high buoyancy tends to counteract this effect. These effects are observed in the Lopez data, which consist of signals from mechanical transient tests, cap shots, airgun pulses, and general background noise. The modification of response is pronounced for some instruments and barely noticeable in others. Instruments that stand high in the water relative to their base width tend to be susceptible to rocking motion that shows up as a mechanical cross coupling between horizontal and vertical motion. Correlation of Lopez results with coupling theory suggests that it is possible to design ocean bottom seismometers that will couple well to any sediment. Current levels at the Lopez site (<5 cm s^-1) were too small to produce noticeable effect on any of the instruments; however, the same design criteria that will minimize coupling problems will also lessen problems caused by ocean currents.Hawaii Institute of Geophysics Contribution No. 1171.