A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.     

Observed foundation behaviour of concrete gravity platforms installed in the North Sea 1973–1978

Available measurements of foundation behaviour of the 13 concrete gravity platforms installed in the North Sea in the years 1973–1978 are presented. The measurements cover both the installation phase and the early part of the operation period. For the installation phase, measurements of dowel and skirt penetration resistance, base contact stresses, tilt, piping and erosion, are presented. For the operation period, the presentation includes measurements of settlements, pore water pressures, base contact stresses, permanent lateral displacements, cyclic displacements, dynamic behaviour and erosion. The measurements are used to back calculate soil properties and to evaluate the adequacy of the design procedures which have been used. The observations give valuable experience with respect to the foundation performance of offshore gravity platforms.     

Submerged cylinder wave energy device: theory and experiment

Linearized water wave theory is used to show that a submerged long circular cylinder suitably constrained by springs and dampers to make small harmonic oscillations, can be extremely efficient in absorbing the energy in an incident regular wave whose crests are parallel to the axis of the cylinder. Experimental results are described which confirm the theory for small amplitude waves and which suggest that the device can still be fairly efficient in waves of moderate amplitude.     

Towards a more detailed seismic picture of the oceanic crust and mantle

A review is presented of current interpretation techniques in marine refraction seismology with particular emphasis on those features which are most useful in structural studies using ocean bottom seismometers. Travel time analysis techniques are discussed for both refraction and variable angle reflection profiles and are compared with systematic travel time inversion methods. Amplitude and waveform analysis techniques allow a more detailed velocity depth profile to be determined, and are illustrated for both surface and bottom receivers. The study of anisotropy and lateral variations in crustal structure may be usefully combined using delay time function methods but a detailed structural model also requires velocity-depth information. Signal processing techniques which are particularly useful for shear wave and long range propagation studies are also metioned. Structural studies using OBS' should lead to detailed knowledge of the oceanic crust and the P wave velocity distribution in the upper mantle.     

潮汐分析和预报的准调和分潮方法 Ⅱ.短期观测的分析

目前,调和方法仍然是潮汐的分析和预报中的一种主要的基本方法,其关键在于求得尽可能准确的调和常数。在湖汐分析中,经常遇到的是对于中、长期(半个月以上)记录的处理,对于这样的资料,已有许多良好的分析方法可以采用。但是,有时我们也会遇到需要处理的短期观测资料,特别对于潮流,由于对它进行观测比水位观测要困难,常常不能获得较长期的记录,而需要从短期记录中分析出调和常数来。处理短期记录的方法也有不少,其中较为常用的是英国海军部的几种方法。这些方法只能处理一次或二次周日观测记录,当观测天数较多时,只能分组进行计算得到几组调和常数,然后再求平均值由于各组的天文条件的差別,调和常数的准确度常常有相当大的差异,而计算平均值时却没有加权,这就影响了结果的可靠性。本文建议的方法将可以直接分析任意多次周日观测记录,因而简化了计算并能得到更准确的结果。     

Solution of an unstable axisymmetric Cauchy–Poisson problem of dispersive water waves for a spectrum with compact support

 It has been known that the axisymmetric Cauchy–Poisson problem for dispersive water waves is well posed in the sense of stability. Thereby time evolution solutions of wave propagation depend continuously on initial conditions. However, in this paper, it is demonstrated that the axisymmetric Cauchy–Poisson problem is ill posed in the sense of stability for a certain class of initial conditions, so that the propagating solutions do not depend continuously on the initial conditions. In order to overcome the difficulty of the discontinuity, Landweber–Fridman's regularization, famous and well known in applied mathematics, are introduced and investigated to learn whether it is applicable to the present axisymmetric wave propagation problem. From the numerical experiments, it is shown that stable and accurate solutions are realized by the regularization, so that it can be applicable to the determination of the ill-posed Cauchy–Poisson problem.     

Organic matter origin and distribution in suspended particulate materials and surficial sediments from the western Adriatic Sea (Italy)

In this study, organic carbon (OC), total nitrogen (TN), stable carbon isotopic (δ¹³C_OC) and CuO reaction product compositions were used to identify the sources of organic matter (OM) and to quantify the relative importance of allochthonous and autochthonous contributions to the western Adriatic Sea, Italy. Suspended particulate material (195 samples) and surficial sediments (0–1 cm, 70 samples) from shallow cross-shelf transects were collected in February and May 2003, respectively. Vertical water column profiles were acquired along the same transects. Data include depth, potential temperature, salinity, density and chlorophyll fluorimetry.Along the western Adriatic shelf in the near-shore region, the phytoplankton growth was influenced by dynamics of the buoyant plumes from the Po and Appennine rivers. A small amount of very fine terrigenous material remained suspended within the coastal current and was exported southward along the shelf to the slope. High variability in the bulk composition was detected in the Po prodelta surficial sediments, whereas the western Adriatic shelf, although a larger area, exhibited a narrower range of values.A significant decoupling was observed between suspended particles in the water column and surficial deposits. The organic material collected in the water column was compositionally heterogeneous, with contributions from marine phytoplankton, riverine–estuarine phytoplankton and soil-derived OM. Frequent physical reworking of surficial sediments likely leads to the efficient oxidation of marine OC, resulting in the observed accumulation and preservation of refractory soil-derived OC delivered by the Po and Appennine rivers.     

Veil over the nets (unravelling corporate liability for IUU fishing offences)

The illegal plundering of fishing stocks worldwide is masked behind a maze of corporate structures that makes discovery of the beneficiaries of such activity, difficult, if not impossible to identify. This paper outlines the problem of illegal fishing and then develops a multi-layered response to avert the veil of corporate entity being used as a means of preventing domestic States from answering the principal thematic question—who is the true beneficiary of this illegal behaviour, and who should be held responsible.