Wave interaction with a perforated wall breakwater with a submerged horizontal porous plate

This study examines the hydrodynamic performance of a new perforated-wall breakwater. The breakwater consists of a perforated front wall, a solid back wall and a submerged horizontal porous plate installed between them. The horizontal porous plate enhances the stability and wave-absorbing capacity of the structure. An analytical solution based on linear potential theory is developed for the interaction of water waves with the new proposed breakwater. According to the division of the structure, the whole fluid domain is divided into three sub-domains, and the velocity potential in each domain is obtained using the matched eigenfunction method. Then the reflection coefficient and the wave forces and moments on the perforated front wall and the submerged horizontal porous plate are calculated. The numerical results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as previous predictions for a perforated-wall breakwater with a submerged horizontal solid plate [Yip, T.L., Chwang, A.T., 2000. Perforated wall breakwater with internal horiontal plate. Journal of Engineering Mechanics ASCE 126 (5), 533–538] and a vertical wall with a submerged horizontal porous plate [Wu, J.H., Wan, Z.P., Fang, Y., 1998. Wave reflection by a vertical wall with a horizontal submerged porous plate. Ocean Engineering 25 (9), 767–779]. Numerical results show that with suitable geometric porosity of the front wall and horizontal plate, the reflection coefficient will be always rather small if the relative wave absorbing chamber width (distance between the front and back walls versus incident wavelength) exceeds a certain small value. In addition, the wave force and moment on the horizontal plate decrease significantly with the increase of the plate porosity.     

台湾海峡台风暴潮非线性数值计算

台湾海峡平均水深不大于50米,台风侵袭频繁.由于台湾岛的“墙壁效应”和台湾海峡的“狭管效应”的影响,台湾海峡的台风暴潮显得较为独特.以前,我们及其他兄弟单位对福建沿海台风暴潮的研究,大多数仅局限于单站的气-水动力相互作用的研究,很少涉及整个海峡.虽说我们也曾作过福建沿岸台风暴潮现场调查,但进行次数有限,了解的也仅是海峡西岸局部地区的情况,它仅能反映台湾海峡台风暴潮的一个侧面,而无法了解整个海峡地区的风暴潮全貌.     

N,N-二烷基酰胺类物质的膜状态及其在水面溢油集油剂中的应用研究

合成了 5种 N,N-二烷基酰胺型表面活性剂 ,并对其所成膜的状态进行了测定。表明当N,N-二烷基酰胺类物质单独成膜时获得的集油膜为多层膜 ,而当选用合适的溶剂与其配制成溶液以后 ,所成的集油膜则为转变膜或液态凝聚膜。在 5种 N,N-二烷基酰胺类物质中 ,酰基碳链越长、氮烷基碳链越短则其集油能力越强。应用 N,N-二烷基酰胺类物质配制了 4个配方 ,均具备良好的集油能力 ,并且对原油的集油能力大于对柴油的集油能力     

SAS测量水体表观光学参数的方法

SeaWiFS航空模拟器（SAS）是专门为在水面之上测量水体表观光学参数的现场设备。文章在介绍SAS现场测量以及数据处理基本方法的基础上，分析了2002年黄海试验SAS的应用效果，并与剖面法测量数据进行了比对。     

菲律宾蛤仔(Ruditapes philippinarum)蛋白聚糖的分离提取及其抗肿瘤活性的初步研究

采用凝胶过滤层析、SDS-PAGE电泳、Bradford法和苯酚-硫酸法等生物化学方法对菲律宾蛤仔中的蛋白聚糖(PG1和PG2)进行分离纯化,研究其理化性质。采用MTT方法研究蛋白聚糖对人肝癌细胞SMMC-7721和人正常肝细胞HL-7702生长的影响。通过小鼠体内实验研究蛋白聚糖的抗肿瘤活性和对荷瘤小鼠免疫功能的影响。结果表明,PG1分子量大约为20kDa,多糖含量为70.09%,蛋白质含量为15.4%。PG2的多糖含量为82.53%,蛋白质含量为7.26%。PG1在200μg/ml浓度时对SMMC-7721的生长抑制率为73.30%,随浓度的升高,抑制率并未发生明显改变。PG2对SMMC-7721的生长抑制作用呈剂量依赖性,在500μg/ml的浓度下,其抑制效果与PG1的抑制效果相当。在同样浓度下,PG1对人正常肝细胞的生长和功能没有明显影响。PG1呈剂量-效应关系明显增加荷瘤小鼠脾指数,促进荷瘤小鼠脾淋巴细胞转化,且没有降低体重及其他毒副作用。PG1对小鼠S180肉瘤的抑制作用可能是通过直接杀伤肿瘤细胞的细胞毒作用和提高小鼠细胞免疫水平来实现。     

浅述多元数据处理的一种简化拟合形式及算法剖析

在实际工程试验与研究中 ,多元数据处理经常遇到 ,根据 Weierstrass定理 ,采用多项式拟合是一种常见的数据处理方法。对于多元多项式的系数求解问题 ,可以归结为超定方程组的求解问题。该文以超定方程组的 SVD求解算法为核心 ,阐述了在工程实际中关于多元数据处理的一种应用方法 ,并尝试给出多元多项式拟合的一种简化方法     

Multi-scale variability of beach profiles at Duck: A wavelet analysis

Beach profiles have been observed to change over a range of spatial and temporal scales; however techniques for quantifying this variability have not been fully established. In this paper, a wavelet technique is introduced as a method to study the multi-scale variability of beach profiles. The beach profile data comprising a 22-year time series surveyed at the US Army Corps of Civil Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF) at Duck are analysed using the adapted maximal overlap discrete wavelet transform (AMODWT). The analysis successfully identifies strong local features in the variability of beach profiles in time and space separately that cannot be isolated by traditional statistical methods. The analysis of spatial wavelet variances provides a new means of investigating the depth of closure. Analysis of variances by temporal scales shows that the combined effects of several temporal scales with one or two dominant scales can be seen at particular points across profiles whilst the dominant temporal scales are different at different portions of the profiles. The method allows for the extremely nonstationary behaviour of beach profile to be analysed into separate frequency bands that can facilitate the interpretation of morphological changes in terms of physical processes.     

南海北部外陆架和上陆坡海底滑坡稳定性研究

海洋工程地质调查发现，在南海北部外陆架和上陆坡海底，有大片滑坡，其水深范围约在１８０－６５０ｍ之间，它们沿着陆架外缘坡折处呈北东－南西方向分布，其具体位置往往与古三角洲前缘的海底陡坎及古海岸线位置密切相关，大量浅层地震，旁侧声纳，底质取样分析和土体力学理论计算表明，本区滑坡主要是由于地形坡度，沉积物特性，土体自身重力，它们是区内海底很不稳定的地带，是一种重要的地灾害因素，在海洋工程地质设计和实施时     

弧后盆地的形成与演化探讨：以东亚陆缘区为例

通过对弧后盆地大地构造体制的讨论，作者认为基属活化作用的产物根据地质，地球物理，地球化学等资料的分析，作者提出结论认为，由于东亚岛弧系岩石圈的均衡作用及海沟外侧冷却大洋岩石圈块体的下沉拖曳牵引等作用，使软流圈在岛弧系下方发生分异，这种分异作用带动东亚陆缘向东扩张，从而产生弧后的张开。     

Notes The Ocean Drilling Program (ODP)

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