Long-Term Joint Distribution of One-Tenth Large (or Significant) Wave Height with Average Period

- In this paper, by using the wave data from a few oceanographic observation stations in the coastal zone of the Yellow Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea, the long-term joint distribution of the one-tenth large (or significant) wave height with average period is studied. The statistical data demonstrate that the long- term distribution of the one- tenth wave height or average period fits the log-normal distribution, thus the joint distribution also fits the two-dimensional log-normal distribution. Then the conditional probability distribution of the average period is derived, and the range as well as the mode of the average wave period corresponding to a certain return period of wave height can be calculated easily.     

Comparisons of Computational and Experimental Results of Solitary Wave Breaking

- In this paper, the solitary wave deformation along a gentle slope and the impact pressure, on the wall are investigated experimentally and the results are compared with numerical results obtained based on the volume of fluid (VOF) method. The topography used in the experiment consists of three segments. The left segment is a 1:4 slope, the middle segment 1 :SO slope and the right segment a horizontal bed. Both the wave heights and breaking points obtained from numerical simulation and experiments are in good agreement. Numerical results give reasonable pressure distributions of breaking waves on the wall.     

Groupiness of Sea Waves and Their Characteristic Parameters

Three methods for studying wave groups and their main parameters for describing wave groupiness are reviewed in this paper. Then they are analyzed and compared combined with field data from both aspects of group height and group length. A method and two parameters that can describe wave groupiness are suggested. The groupiness parameters of sea waves at three field stations are given. The effects of groupiness on both distributions of the wave height and the phase of component waves are investigated. The effects of datum length on the calculated value of grouping parameters are also discussed.     

非饱和土中溶质迁移参数反演的HISR方法

以非饱和土中溶质迁移参数反演问题为背景, 依据正则化方法的思路, 以Itakura Saito距离作为同伦函数中的平凡问题, 将同伦方法引入非线性参数反演问题的求解, 进而提出一种求解非线性参数反演问题的大范围收敛(HomotoyItakura SaitoRegularization, HISR) 方法.为保证迭代稳定性, 并同时削弱观测噪声的影响, 同伦参数的修正采用了连续化修正方法.本文将HISR方法应用于求解带有平衡及非平衡吸附效应的一维非饱和土中溶质迁移参数反演问题, 计算结果表明HISR方法具有大范围收敛性及计算稳健性, 同时有较强的抵抗观测噪声的能力.      

An Introduction to 2-CCD Digital Particle Image Velocimetry System and Its Application in Ocean Engineering

The basic principle of particle image velocinmetry(PIV)is described.When a PIV image is an-alyzed by the method of auto-correlation,there is a direction ambiguity of 180~0 in velocity measurement.The problem can be solved by using"Image Shifting Technique",but this makes devices much complicat-ed and difficult to control.A new arrangement of 2-CCD(Charge Coupled Device)fully digitized PIV sys-tem,which can also solve the problem successfully,is introduced in the paper.As an example of applica-tion of the system,an experimental result of flow field around a horizontal cylinder in wave is presented.     

Numerical Simulation of Freak Waves Based on the Four-Order Nonlinear Schrdinger Equation

A numerical wave model based on the modified four-order nonlinear Schrdinger (NLS) equation in deep water is developed to simulate freak waves. A standard split-step, pseudo-spectral method is used to solve NLS equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, and then the simulation of freak waves is performed by changing sideband conditions. Results show that freak waves entirely consistent with the definition in the evolution of wave trains are obtained. The possible occurrence mechanism of freak waves is discussed and the relevant characteristics are also analyzed.     

Experiment for Determination of Dry-Laid Stone Armour Layer Thickness of Rubble Mound Breakwaters

Through hydraulic model experiment and site investigation, this paper has derived a calculation formula of dry-laid stone armour layer thickness of rubble mound breakwaters for fishery harbours. The influences of the friction force between stone blocks and the variations of wave length or period and water depth are considered in the formula. The calculated results of several existing structures are in good agreement with field data. This formula is more practical than those ever published both at home and abroad, and has been adoptted by the technical standards of aquatic projects published by the Ministry of Agriculture of China. It is applicable for the calculation of dry-laid stone armour layer of breakwater for small- or medium-size harbours.     

Fatigue Test of Homemade Z Direction Steel Welded T Tubular Joints

This paper introduces the process and result of fatigue test of steel (Z direction steel) welded T tubular joints used in offshore engineering. Detailed measurement of stress concentration factor, stress distribution, fatigue life and crack development has been performed. Through analysis, an empirical formula of stress concentration factor for T tubular joints, fatigue S-N curve and crack propagation rule are obtained.     

Numerical Simulation of Wave Interaction with Perforated Caisson Breakwaters

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Numerical Simulation of Wave Scour Around A Large-Scale Circular Cylinder

A numerical model is developed for estimation of local scour around a large circular cylinder under vvave action. The model includes wave diffraction around structures, bed shear stress calculation inside the vvave boundary layer and topo-graphical change model. The vvave model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth. The vvave boundary layer is calculaled by solving the integrated momentum equation over the boundary layer. The bed shear stress due to streaming, an important factor affecting the sediment transport around a large-scale cylinder, is calculated. The Lagrangian drift velocity is included in calculation of the suspended sediment transport rates. The model is implemented by a finite element method and the results from the present model, which agree well with experimental data, are com-pared vvith those from other methods.