Discussion of “Wave setup and setdown generated by obliquely incident waves” by T.-W. Hsu et al., Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006

In the recent paper by Tai-Wen Hsu, John R.-C. Hsu, Wen-Kai Weng, Swun-Kwang Wang, and Shan-Hwei Ou (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006), the authors derived theoretical formulations for calculating the wave setup and setdown induced by obliquely incident waves on a beach. The derivation of an expression for setdown contains errors which would lead to an imbalance in longshore momentum flux outside the surfzone. We correct their derivation and give results in terms of the radiation stress concept in a general case including an oblique wave incidence. We also point out that the correct form of wave setdown is important to describe the zero-net force in the momentum balance outside the surfzone.     

Evolution of oceanographic conditions off Baja California: 1997–1999

This paper examines the oceanic response off Baja California, Mexico, to the 1997–1998 El Niño and the transition to La Niña conditions. The data presented were gathered during seven cruises over a grid based on the CalCOFI station plan, from lines 100–130, out to station 80. T–S diagrams with data obtained during the peak phase of El Niño, demonstrate that warmer and saltier (spicier) than normal conditions prevailed in the upper 600 m over this region. Temperature and salinity anomalies calculated for CalCOFI line 120 revealed waters near the coast at 50 m depth to be up to 8.7 °C warmer and S=0.8 saltier than the climatology during October 1997. These large anomalies persisted through January 1998, with some slight diminution in the magnitudes near the surface. This study suggests that anomalously warm and salty waters were fed from a source of spicy water to the southwest, identified as Subtropical Surface Water (StSW), and that low-salinity Tropical surface waters (TSW) were blocked to the southeast in the vicinity of the tip of the Peninsula. Subsurface waters associated with the California undercurrent (CU), fed from the Eastern Tropical Pacific (ETP), were also warmer and saltier than normal, and indicate a significant expansion in volume of the CU, presumably a result of intensification of poleward flow at depth. We postulate that the well defined near-surface and deep poleward flows in the study area reflect anomalous large-scale cyclonic circulation affecting the flow in the southeastern region of the North Pacific subtropical gyre east of 125°W. Following the El Niño event, warm and salty upper waters retreated to latitudes south of Punta Eugenia. With the return to normal and cooler conditions, equatorward flow over the sampling grid predominated with an increased meandering and mesoscale activity. Transition to La Niña conditions would have been associated with re-establishment of normal anticyclonic flow in the southeastern quadrant of the Pacific subtropical gyre.     

RAGLAND,AN LL3.4 CHONDRITE FIND FROM NEW MEXICO

The Ragland, New Mexico chondrite was found in 1978, and consists of a single stone of 12.16 kg that broke into three pieces. The stone is moderately weathered and has a pronounced chondritic texture. Bulk composition favors an LL classification, and modal analysis and oxygen isotopic composition are consistent with this. The thermoluminescence sensitivity of 0.056 ± 0.020 normalized to Dhajala, compositional variability of olivine (mean Fa 18.3, σ = 10.1) and low-Ca pyroxene (mean Fs 14.6, σ = 6.7), and Ca concentrations in olivine indicate metamorphic subtype 3.4 ± 0.1. The isotopically heavy oxygen composition, which is characteristic of subtypes 3.0–3.1, may be a primary characteristic and not a result of weathering. Low concentrations of radiogenic ⁴⁰Ar and planetary ³⁶Ar suggest noble gas loss.     

Paleomagnetism of the triassic nicola volcanics and geotectonics of the quesnellia subterrane of terrane I, British Columbia

Paleomagnetic data from 46 sites (674 specimens) of the Westcoast Crystalline Gneiss Complex on the west coast of Vancouver Island using AF and thermal demagnetization methods yields a high blocking temperature WCB component (> 560°C) with a pole at 335°W, 66°N (δ_p = 4°, δ_m = 6°) and a lower coercivity WCA component ( 25 mT, < 500°C) with a pole at 52°W, 79°N (δ_p = 7°, δ_m = 8°). Further thermal demagnetization data from 24 sites in the Jurassic Island Intrusions also defines two high blocking temperature components. The IIA component pole is at 59°W, 79°N (δ_p = 7°, δ_m = 8°) and IIB pole at 130°W, 73°N (δ_p = 12°, δ_m = 13°). Combined with previous data from the Karmutsen Basalts and mid-Tertiary units on Vancouver Island and from the adjacent Coast Plutonic Complex, the geotectonic motions are examined for the Vancouver Island segment of the Wrangellian Subterrane of composite Terrane II of the Cordillera. The simplest hypothesis invokes relatively uniform translation for Terrane II from Upper Triassic to Eocene time producing 39° ± 6° of northward motion relative to the North American craton, combined with 40° of clockwise rotation during the Lower Tertiary.     

Morphological response of tidal marshes,flats and channels of the Outer Yangtze River mouth to a major storm

Systematic morphological changes of the coastline of the outer Yangtze River mouth in response to storms versus calm weather were documented by daily surveys of tidal marshes and flats between April 1999 and May 2001 and by boat surveys offshore during this and earlier periods. The largest single event during 1999 to 2001 was Typhoon Paibaian, which eroded the unvegetated tidal flat and lower marsh and led to accretion on the middle-to-upper marsh and in the subtidal channel. The greatest erosion of 21 cm occurred at the border between the marsh and the unvegetated flat due to the landward retreat of the marsh edge during the storm. Strong waves on the flats increased suspended sediment concentration by 10–20 times. On the upper marsh, where the frequency of submergence by astronomical tides is only 3%, Typhoon Paibian led to 4 cm of accretion, accounting for 57% of the net accretion observed over the 2-yr study. Typhoon Paibian led to 4 cm of accretion, accounting for 57% of the net accretion observed over the 2-yr study. Typhoon Paibian and other large storms in the 1990s caused over 50 cm of accretion along the deep axis of the river mouth outlet channel. During calm weather, when hydrodynamic energy was dominated by tides, deposition was centered on the unvegetated flats and lower, marsh with little deposition on the high marsh and erosion in the subtidal channel. Depositional recovery of the tidal flat from typhoon-induced erosion took only several days, whereas recovery of the subtidal channel by erosion took several weeks. A conceptual model for the morphological responses of tidal marshes, flats, and subtidal channels to storms and calm weather is proposed such that sediment continually moves from regions of highest near-bed energy towards areas of lower energy.