Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery

While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Late Quaternary Evolution of Amvrakikos Gulf,Western Greece

Amvrakikos Gulf is a Neogene basin, formed during a late extensional tectonic phase within the Plio-Quaternary period. It is a semienclosed embayment, separated from the Ionian Sea by a shallow (< 10 m) channel. The analysis of 3.5-kHz seismic reflection profiles shows that, during the last (Würm) glacial period, the parts of the Gulf that lie at water depths >41 m (below present sea level) were a paleo-lake while the rest were exposed to subaerial erosion. Subsequent offshore depositional sequences accumulated at rates of 1.2–2.3 m/ka.     

Response of the blue mussel Mytilus edulis L. following exposure to PAHs or contaminated sediment

The polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons fluoranthene and benzo(a)pyrene significantly reduced the feeding rate of mussels. For both compounds the tissue concentration resulting in a 50% reduction of the clearance rate (TEC₅₀) was calculated. At high tissue concentrations both aromatic compounds reduced the tolerance of mussels to aerial exposure, whereas at low tissue concentrations an improved response was noticed. The activities of the antioxidant enzymes Superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase were elevated only at low tissue concentrations of fluoranthene and benzo(a)pyrene. At the highest measured tissue concentrations the activity of both enzymes was reduced, possibly due to a narcotic effect. The reproductive success rate of mussels appeared to be affected negatively by the investigated hydrocarbons. The results of a pilot experiment indicate that mussels can be used also for the testing of contaminated sediments.     

Seasonality in nutrient concentrations in Galveston Bay

In order to investigate factors controlling nutrient cycling in the shallow and turbid coastal ecosystem of Galveston Bay, data from: (1) the Texas Water Commission (TWC) database 1980–1989, and (2) salinity transects in 1989 and 1993 are presented and analyzed. Statistical regression and time-series analysis were carried out on data acquired by TWC between 1980 and 1989, in an attempt to establish seasonally of nutrient and chlorophyll-a (chl.-a.) concentrations in the bay and to determine factors which regulate these concentrations.A strong seasonality was found for phosphorus and chl.-a. in the upper and mid-bay stations. A recurring maximum for phosphate occurred in September and a chl.-a. maximum occurred regularly in March–April. It is hypothesized that benthic regeneration of phosphorus at the end of summer is responsible for the phosphate maximum. The inverse correlation of the partition coefficient (K_d) for phosphate with the concentration of suspended particulate matter (SPM), coupled to a strong enrichment of phosphate in suspended particles at low SPM concentrations, indicates additional control by geochemical and physical processes such as particle sorting and/or particle-colloid interactions. Nitrate is inversely correlated with salinity at the upper and mid-bay stations, indicating the Trinity River is a major source.Nutrient concentrations in the lower bay (East and West Bay stations) are considerably lower and less predictable, as they are not correlated with salinity or temperature. Data from the 1989 and 1993 transects confirm the yearly maximum in phosphate concentration in late summer months, with peak concentrations in the upper Trinity Bay. It is concluded that despite possible phosphate buffering by physical and geochemical mechanisms, relatively large concentration maxima recur regularly every year during the summer, possibly caused by a benthic source of phosphate.     

Mid-Holocene evolution and paleoenvironments of the shoreface–offshore transition, north-eastern Argentina: New evidence based on benthic microfauna

A sedimentary record spanning 5792–5511 cal yr BP and 3188–2854 cal yr BP was recovered at 36° 45′ 43″ S–56 ° 37′ 13″ W, south-west South Atlantic. The sedimentological features and micropaleontological (benthic foraminifera and ostracoda) content were analyzed in order to reconstruct paleoenvironmental conditions. Considerable environmental fluctuations are indicated by all these proxies. Five different stages were distinguished: Stage 1 (ca. 5800–5000 cal yr BP) consists of muddy sand with abundant microfossils. In this interval, species typical for inner marine shelf environments maintained a high abundance. Stage 2 consists of plastic light greenish grey clays barren of microfossils, and probably represents fluvial input from the de la Plata River to the shelf contemporaneous of a lowering of sea level. Stage 3 is composed of brownish yellow sandy silts, and represents increasing marine conditions in the area as reflected by higher faunal diversity and typical foraminifera of inner shelf environments. Stage 4 is made of homogeneous mud, barren of microfossil, which represents a new pulse of fluvial input to the shelf in consequence of a new fall in sea level. The final part of the core (Stage 5) is a coarsening upward sequence, grading from greeny brown clayey sandy silts to coarse shelly sands and represents the modern sedimentation in the area. This interpretation strengthens the stepped model of late-Holocene sea-level fall between 5511–5792 cal yr BP and 2854–3188 cal yr BP in Buenos Aires coast, and agrees with the relative sea-level history previously proposed by some authors from western South Atlantic coasts.     

Detection of free gas and gas hydrate based on 3D seismic data and cone penetration testing: An example from the Nigerian Continental Slope

We present a new method to characterize free gas, gas hydrates and carbonate concretions occurrence which are considered as high-risk factors for sub-sea developments in the Niger delta. This method is based on the combination of 3D seismic data to the geotechnical site characterizations using piezocone CPTU tests (Cone Penetration Test with additional measurement of the pore water pressure). A special processing of the 3D seismic data has enabled the determination of the interval compressional velocity. Using the effective-medium theory, velocity anomalies (negative and positive) within the first 15 m were translated in gas hydrate and free gas distribution. The calibration of the P wave velocity anomalies was done thanks to in-situ geotechnical testing carried out during two oceanographic surveys (2003 and 2004). Comparison between in-situ testing, recovered cores and the prediction of the gas and the gas hydrate distribution based on the compressional wave velocity have shown that 3D seismic data is a valuable tool to identify heterogeneous areas but the use of the piezocone was essential to discriminate between gas hydrate occurrences and carbonate concretions' presence. Furthermore, in-situ compressional wave velocity (V_p) measurements have clearly demonstrated what it was suspected from the 3D seismic data, the co-existence in the study area between gas hydrate and free gas.     

Plankton distribution and vertical flux of biogenic matter during high summer stratification in the Krka estuary (Eastern Adriatic)

The aim of this study was to investigate phytoplankton abundance, composition and vertical export in the highly stratified Krka estuary, Croatia. The estuary is stratified throughout the year, and an interface between fresh- and brackish water plays an important role in production and degradation of biogenic matter. Vertical export of particulate organic carbon (POC), phytoplankton carbon (PPC) and faecal pellet carbon (FPC) was studied by deploying sediment traps in the middle and lower reach of the estuary and in the adjacent coastal zone. Zooplankton faecal pellet (FP) production experiments were conducted to provide additional information on the potential contribution of FP to the total carbon flux. High suspended concentrations of POC, chlorophyll a and phytoplankton was found in the lower reaches of the Krka estuary, adjacent to a source of anthropogenic eutrophication. The fraction of organic detritus to the total POC flux was 61–69% inside the estuary but only 7% at the marine station. This indicates that the primary producers in the surface layer of the Krka estuary are decomposed in and below the interface and then settle as detritus to the bottom. Low sedimentation rates in the coastal zone outside the estuary revealed that the eutrophication does not spread out of the estuary. Mesozooplankton played a modest role in vertical flux regulation, due to their low abundance and dominance of smaller forms as well as low faecal pellet production rates. It is concluded that processes taking place at the freshwater-seawater interface are of major importance for the vertical carbon flux in the investigated area.     

Naming of undersea features

The Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission (IOC), the International Hydrographic Organization (IHO), and the joint IOC/IHO Guiding Committee for the General Bathymetric Chart of the Oceans (GEBCO) have expressed considerable concern about the indiscriminate and unregulated naming of undersea features which often go into print without any close scrutiny. An author may not realize that the feature has a name already, maybe in another language, or that his terminology conflicts with established definitions.Geo-Marine Letters wants to follow the IOC/IHO/GEBCO recommendations and requests that its authors follow the set forth guidelines. Examples of terms and definitions are given and addresses of national authorities provided.     

The mineralogy and provenance of deep-sea sediments recovered by gravity corer off Sierra Leone,West Africa

The mineralogy of eight gravity cores recovered between Sierra Leone and 25°W longitude has been examined in an investigation of the provenance of the recent sediments in the eastern Equatorial Atlantic. X-ray analyses show that the principal mineral components are calcite, quartz, feldspar, kaolinite, illite and montmorillonite. One core taken from the upper continental slope off Freetown also contains gibbsite, a product of intense tropical weathering. Biogenic material forms the dominant component of most sections of the cores but it is clear from the abundance of quartz, kaolinite and freshwater diatoms that an aeolian supply of continental detritus has been important in the formation of the recent sediment cover. A significant contribution from volcanic sources can be recognised to the west of the Sierra Leone Rise. The occurrence of calcareous turbidites in two cores from the St. Paul's Fracture Zone and from the basin west of the Sierra Leone Rise appears to be a reflection of recent tectonic activity.     

An overview and general results of the Lopez island OBS experiment

The purpose of the experiment was to determine the effects of coupling and bottom currents on ocean bottom seismometers. Twelve operational OBSs, three specially designed three-component systems, and a hydrophone were compared with each other. Unlike seismometers placed on hard rock at land stations, ocean bottom seismometers can be affected by soft sediments (which act as lossy mechanical springs) and by buoyancy. Coupling through soft sediments can modify the response to ground motion much as a low pass filter does, and high buoyancy tends to counteract this effect. These effects are observed in the Lopez data, which consist of signals from mechanical transient tests, cap shots, airgun pulses, and general background noise. The modification of response is pronounced for some instruments and barely noticeable in others. Instruments that stand high in the water relative to their base width tend to be susceptible to rocking motion that shows up as a mechanical cross coupling between horizontal and vertical motion. Correlation of Lopez results with coupling theory suggests that it is possible to design ocean bottom seismometers that will couple well to any sediment. Current levels at the Lopez site (<5 cm s^-1) were too small to produce noticeable effect on any of the instruments; however, the same design criteria that will minimize coupling problems will also lessen problems caused by ocean currents.Hawaii Institute of Geophysics Contribution No. 1171.