Parameters of JONSWAP spectral model for surface gravity waves—II. Predictability from real data

Monte Carlo simulation of wave spectra was carried out to provide an assessment of JONSWAP spectral model and parameters. The simulation method is found to be satisfactory because (a) it excludes the spectral variability due to geophysical factors from the sampling errors in the spectral estimates and the statistical uncertainty in determining the model parameters; and (b) the simulated spectra can represent ideal spectral estimates where the sampling errors have been minimized by increasing the degrees of freedom of the spectra. The latter (b) allows both the magnitude of sampling errors to be evaluated and errors due to statistical uncertainty to be isolated. Thus, the stimulation study provides a useful error analysis to assess the JONSWAP spectral model and parameters. For instance, it is found from the results that the sampling errors could be as high as 20% while errors due to uncertainty in determining the model parameter could be as high as 17%. However, the overall errors may be reduced to the minimum of approx. 15% if the simulated spectra have 80 degrees of freedom and constant values of σ_a and σ_b i.e. σ_a = 0.07 and σ_b = 0.09. This implies that the maximum accuracy of 85% may be achieved in JONSWAP spectral model even though the α parameter has been underestimated by about 1.5%. The overestimated values of γ might come from the underestimated α and the biased φ_m estimator caused by the statistical uncertainty in the presence of a sharp spectral peak. Although the scale parameters (α and φ_m) exhibit smaller errors and variability than the shape parameters (ψ, σ_a and σ_b), they are more sensitive to the degrees of freedom of the spectra and their estimators are not better than the estimators of shape parameters. The simulation experiments have also shown that simulated spectra at 20–40 degrees of freedom contain a substantial amount of sampling errors. Therefore, the measured wave spectra at the same degrees of freedom (20–40) are not suitable and should not be used for evaluating the accuracy of any wave spectral model.     

Characterization of bacterial community structure in vestimentiferan tubeworm Ridgeia piscesae trophosomes

Terminal‐restriction fragment length polymorphisms (T‐RFLPs) were used to address the question whether there are multiple phylotypes of bacteria within the trophosome of the vestimentiferan tubeworm Ridgeia piscesae in addition to the known endosymbiont. Clone libraries were constructed to aid in the identification of the additional bacterial phylotypes. Individual R. piscesae specimens were collected from Juan de Fuca Ridge, Axial Caldera and Explorer Ridge, Magic Mountain. Clone library analyses revealed only one bacterial phylotype (expected R. piscesae endosymbiont) within the Explorer Ridge trophosomes. However, the Axial Caldera clone library revealed five operational taxonomic units (OTUs). Three of the resulting phylotypes detected (designated RAE) were putative thioautotrophic symbionts within the γ‐Proteobacteria which belonged to the anticipated endosymbiont group (RAE OTU 1), the Maorithyas hadalis symbiont II group (RAE OTU 3), and the Halothiobacillus group (RAE OTU 4). The remaining two phylotypes were most likely opportunistically derived. RAE OTU 5 was an α‐Proteobacterium within the Roseobacter group and RAE OTU 2 was within the Cytophaga–Flavobacterium–Bacteroidetes. T‐RFLP analyses revealed that all 15 trophosomes evaluated contained at least RAE OTUs 1 and 4. Five of the 15 trophosomes contained at least RAE OTUs 1, 3, and 4 and two of the trophosomes contained at least five RAE OTUs. Cluster analysis of the T‐RFLP data revealed three distinct clusters. The number of taxa within the trophosome may be an indication of the general health of the tubeworm. This study strongly suggests that we have discovered and identified more than one bacterial phylotype within the trophosome of vestimentiferan R. piscesae.     

Spatial and temporal variability of the ratios between the nitrate and phosphate concentrations in the Sea of Okhotsk

The relation between the nitrate and phosphate concentrations in the Sea of Okhotsk and the bordering waters of the Pacific Ocean were studied. The surveys were carried out in the autumn, spring, and summer of 2001–2002. For the deepwater part of the sea, the relation [NO^? ₃] = ((14.88 ± 0.07) × [PO^3? ₄] ? 5.46 ± 0.17) was found. The coefficients in the equation given are statistically different from those in the similar equation for the Pacific waters: [NO^? ₃] = (16.05 ± 0.15) × [PO^3? ₄]-(7.23 ± 0.36). In the northern part of the sea; on the shelf; in the slope area; and, especially, in the deep waters of the TINRO Depression, the linear dependence between the phosphate and nitrate concentrations was distorted. This feature was described in terms of nitrate deficiency. The maximum values of this deficiency were found in the near-bottom waters. The principal processes that might cause the nitrate deficiency were considered: the difference in the oxidation rates of the nitrogen and phosphorus organic compounds, the matter transfer between the continent and the sea, the different efficiency of the biogenic burial of nitrogen and phosphorus in the bottom sediments, and the denitrification in the upper layer of the bottom sediments. It was shown that the most probable cause of the nitrate deficiency was the denitrification. The loss of inorganic nitrogen owing to the supply of the waters of the Sea of Okhotsk to the Pacific Ocean was estimated as ～2.5 × 10¹¹ mol N/year.     

Analysis of estuarine colour components during non-monsoon period through Ocean Colour Monitor

Simultaneous acquisition of water samples, radiance and irradiance measurements were carried out from 40 stations in the Mandovi–Zuari estuaries during February to May 2002. From the samples collected, inherent and apparent optical properties (IOP and AOP) such as absorption coefficient (a), upwelling diffuse attenuation coefficient (k_u) and subsurface reflectance (R) were derived. Using these optical properties, radiative transfer at each water column is examined. On the basis of the radiative transfer outcome, band-ratio algorithms are derived for three optically active substances (OAS), viz, chlorophyll-a, suspended sediment and coloured dissolved organic matter (CDOM). The respective algorithms are 670/555, 490/670 and 412/670 nm for chlorophyll-a, suspended sediment and CDOM. These algorithms are applied to Ocean Colour Monitor (OCM), onboard Indian Remote Sensing Satellite (IRS)-Polar Satellite Launch Vehicle (P4), scenes (digital data), to synoptically analyze these OAS. The synoptic analysis of OAS revealed different hydrodynamic characteristics of the estuaries during non-monsoon seasons.     

Rock magnetic records of the sediments of the eastern Arabian Sea: Evidence for late Quaternary climatic change

Rock-magnetic measurements along with grain size, acid-insoluble residue (AIR), organic carbon (OC), CaCO₃ and δ¹⁸O of the planktonic foraminifers of the sediments were determined for 15 gravity cores recovered from the western continental margin of India. Magnetic susceptibility (MS) values in the surficial sediments reflect the land-derived input and, in general, are the highest in terrigenous sediment-dominated sections of the cores off Saurashtra–Ratnagiri, followed by the sediments off Indus–Gulf of Kachchh and then Mangalore–Cape Comorin.

The down-core variations in mineral magnetic parameters reveal that the glacial sediments off the Indus are characterized by low MS values/S-ratios associated with high AIR-content, low OC/CaCO₃ contents and relatively high δ¹⁸O values, while those off SW India are characterized by low MS values/high S-ratio% associated with low AIR content, and relatively high OC, CaCO₃ and δ¹⁸O values. Conversely, the Early Holocene sediments of all cores are characterized by high MS values/S-ratio% associated with high AIR content, low OC, CaCO₃ contents and gradually decreased δ¹⁸O values. These results imply that during the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM), the cores off northwestern India received abundant continental supply leading to the predominance of eolian/fluvial sedimentation. In the SW region the influence of hinterland flux is less evident during this period, but convective mixing associated with the NE monsoon resulted in increased productivity. During the early Holocene intense SW monsoon conditions resulted in high precipitation on land, which in turn contributed increased AIR content/MS values in the continental margin sediments. A shallow water core off Kochi further suggests that the intense SW monsoon conditions prevailed until about 5 ka. The late Holocene organic-rich sediments of the SW margin of India were, however, subjected to early diagenesis at different intervals in the cores. Therefore, caution is needed when interpreting regional climatic change from down-core changes in sediment magnetic properties.     

Numerical and experimental study on hydrodynamic interaction of side-by-side moored multiple vessels

This paper aims to investigate the basic interaction characteristics of side-by-side moored vessels both numerically and experimentally. A higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) combined with generalized mode approach is applied to analysis of motion and drift force of side-by-side moored multiple vessels (LNG FPSO, LNGC and shuttle tankers). Model tests were carried out for the same floating bodies investigated in the numerical study in regular and irregular waves. Global and local motion responses and drift forces of three vessels are compared with those of calculations. Discussions is highlighted on applicability of numerical method to prediction of sophisticated multi-body interaction problem of which motion behavior is very important to analysis of mooring dynamics of deep sea floating bodies.     

How tides and river flows determine estuarine bathymetries

For strongly tidal, funnel-shaped estuaries, we examine how tides and river flows determine size and shape. We also consider how long it takes for bathymetric adjustment, both to determine whether present-day bathymetry reflects prevailing forcing and how rapidly changes might occur under future forcing scenarios.Starting with the assumption of a 'synchronous' estuary (i.e., where the sea surface slope resulting from the axial gradient in phase of tidal elevation significantly exceeds the gradient in tidal amplitude ), an expression is derived for the slope of the sea bed. Thence, by integration we derive expressions for the axial depth profile and estuarine length, L, as a function of and D, the prescribed depth at the mouth. Calculated values of L are broadly consistent with observations. The synchronous estuary approach enables a number of dynamical parameters to be directly calculated and conveniently illustrated as functions of and D, namely: current amplitude Û, ratio of friction to inertia terms, estuarine length, stratification, saline intrusion length, flushing time, mean suspended sediment concentration and sediment in-fill times.Four separate derivations for the length of saline intrusion, L_I, all indicate a dependency on (U_o is the residual river flow velocity and f is the bed friction coefficient). Likely bathymetries for `mixed' estuaries can be delineated by mapping, against and D, the conditions L<sub>I</sub>/L<1,E<sub>X</sub>/L<1 (E<sub>X</sub> is the tidal excursion) alongside the Simpson-Hunter criteria D/U<sup>3</sup><50 m<sup>−2</sup> s<sup>3</sup>. This zone encompasses 24 out of 25 `randomly' selected UK estuaries.However, the length of saline intrusion in a funnel-shaped estuary is also sensitive to axial location. Observations suggest that this location corresponds to a minimum in landward intrusion of salt. By combining the derived expressions for L and L_I with this latter criterion, an expression is derived relating D_i, the depth at the centre of the intrusion, to the corresponding value of U_o. This expression indicates U_o is always close to 1 cm s⁻¹, as commonly observed. Converting from U_o to river flow, Q, provides a morphological expression linking estuarine depth to Q (with a small dependence on side slope gradients).These dynamical solutions are coupled with further generalised theory related to depth and time-mean, suspended sediment concentrations (as functions of and D). Then, by assuming the transport of fine marine sediments approximates that of a dissolved tracer, the rate of estuarine supply can be determined by combining these derived mean concentrations with estimates of flushing time, F_T, based on L_I. By further assuming that all such sediments are deposited, minimum times for these deposition rates to in-fill estuaries are determined. These times range from a decade for the shortest, shallowest estuaries to upwards of millennia in longer, deeper estuaries with smaller tidal ranges.     

Transformation of the Level of Barotropic Ocean under an Elliptic Region of Disturbances of a Baric Field

We study elevations of the level of a homogeneous ocean caused by a large-scale elliptic anomaly of the field of atmospheric pressure and determine the conditions under which Earth's rotation and the asymmetry of the region of disturbances of the baric field lead to significant deviations of the ocean level from its values given by the law of inverted barometer. Our investigation is based on the numerical analysis of the integral solution of the linear problem. It is shown that the deviations from the law of inverted barometer are especially pronounced in shallow-water regions, at high latitudes, and for strongly asymmetric regions of disturbances of atmospheric pressure.