Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.     

High-resolution measurements of chromophoric dissolved organic matter in the Mississippi and Atchafalaya River plume regions

Chromophoric dissolved organic matter (CDOM) was measured in the spring and summer in the northern Gulf of Mexico with the ECOShuttle, a towed, instrumented, undulating vehicle. A submersible pump mounted on the vehicle supplied continuously flowing, uncontaminated seawater to online instruments in the shipboard laboratory and allowed discrete samples to be taken for further analysis. CDOM in the northern Gulf of Mexico was dominated by freshwater inputs from the Mississippi River through the Birdfoot region and to the west by discharge from the Atchafalaya River. CDOM was more extensively dispersed in the high-flow period in the spring but in both time periods was limited by stratification to the upper 12 m or so. Thin, subsurface CDOM maxima were observed below the plume during the highly stratified summer period but were absent in the spring. However, there was evidence of significant in situ biological production of CDOM in both seasons.The Mississippi River freshwater end member was similar in spring and summer, while the Atchafalaya end member was significantly higher in the spring. In both time periods, the Atchafalaya was significantly higher in CDOM and dissolved organic carbon (DOC) than the Mississippi presumably due to local production and exchange within the coastal wetlands along the lower Atchafalaya which are absent along the lower Mississippi. Nearshore waters may also have higher CDOM due to outwelling from coastal wetlands. High-resolution measurements allow the differentiation of various water masses and are indicative of rapidly varying (days to weeks) source waters. Highly dynamic but conservative mixing between various freshwater and marine end members apparently dominates CDOM distributions in the area with significant in situ biological inputs (bacterial degradation of phytoplankton detritus), evidence of flocculation, and minor photobleaching effects also observed. It is clear that high-resolution measurements and adaptive sampling strategies allow a more detailed examination of the processes that control CDOM distributions in river-dominated systems.     

好望角附近海域春季大风的几种主要形势分析

通过普查和分析，概括出了春季好望角附近海域三种主要大风出现时的模型图，并以一个月中逐日4次船舶测风报告为例，分析了好望角大风的某些主要特征。     

长江口泥沙絮凝静水沉降动力学模式的试验研究

细颗粒泥沙在咸水中的絮凝沉降是河流泥沙向海输送过程中在河口区发生的重要现象，是河口拦门沙形成与发育的主要原因之一。本文根据室内模拟试验研究，提出长江口泥沙絮凝静水沉降的二级动力学模式，通过该式求得不同泥沙含量和盐度情况下絮凝沉降的衰减系数，半衰期和平均沉降速率等动力学参数，定量地分析泥沙含量和盐度对泥沙絮凝沉降过程的影响。     

合浦珠母贝铁的穆斯堡尔谱学研究

应用^57Fe穆斯堡尔谱学的方法研究了四个不同生长期合浦珠母贝铁的化学状态和Fe^2 /Fe^3 的值，它们的Fe^2 和Fe^3 的相对含量分别为4.1%～29.4%和76.6%～95.9%,Fe^2 /Fe^3 值的变化为0.043～0.42。3个月龄的Fe^2 /Fe^3 值大于10个月龄，从10个月龄到22个月龄的Fe^2 /Fe^3 值呈增加的趋势，这可能反映了不同生长期合浦珠母贝对不同价态的铁的需求。     

CHIMEHERB人工皮使用的体会

从1989年4月～1990年10月,我科在69例病人中使用CHIMEHERB人工皮,覆盖治疗了供皮区,Ⅱ°烧伤创面、脱痂创面的残余肉芽创面.临床应用表明:CHIMEHERB人工皮能加快创面的愈合,是目前较好的一种创面覆盖物,用人工皮覆盖创面2～3天后,人工皮干燥,不需再换药,可减轻病人的痛苦.     

新生相形成的模拟实验研究

通过模拟实验制备了硅酸盐类不溶性固体，从Ｘ射线衍射特征和红外光谱特征两方面看，制得的硅酸盐类与河口新生相成分，结构相似，表明铁水解成的β－ＦｅＯＯＨ胶体吸附Ｓｉ，Ａｌ，Ｍｇ，Ｋ等元素，经结构重组可形成硅酸盐矿物，这可能是河口体系新生相的形成原因。     

甲醛前处理对提取海带褐藻胶质与量的影响

褐藻胶(Na-alginate)工业在国外已有半个多世纪的历史,其工艺流程及生产设备等都日趋标准化,产品的种类及其在工业上的用途也走向多样化。我国在五十年代初期曾呈奎和纪明侯就用野生的马尾藻作为原料进行了褐藻胶的提取研究,井确立了褐藻胶的生产工艺,从而诞生了我国的褐藻胶工业。六十年代以来,由于海带的大量人工栽培，褐藻胶生产便采用海带作为原料,由此,这个新兴工业迅猛发展。目前,中国的褐藻胶生产的规模和产量在世界上已名列前矛,除了主产品褐藻胶以外,还同时生产甘露醇、碘等联产品。但这个工业还存在不少问题,特別是褐藻胶的粘度、透明度及色泽等质量指标是人们极为关切的问题。本文拟就海藻原料的前处理工艺对胶的质量和产量的影响做一系统的研究。     

我国东部邻海恶劣天气的时空分布及其成因初探

本文利用1930～1979年NCDC海洋船舶观测的气象资料,分析了中国东部邻海恶劣天气的时空分布。结果表明,海区恶劣天气的分布在冬季和夏季是不同的;在东北和西南季风期间,台湾东北和西南海区也有差异。影响恶劣天气条件的分布因子非常复杂,主要是季风和极锋、天气系统、冷暖洋流及地形等因子。     

Optimum design of filament-wound multilayer-sandwich submersible pressure hulls

Submersible pressure hulls with fiber-reinforced multilayer-sandwich constructions have been developed in recent years as substitutes for classical metallic ring-stiffened pressure hulls. This study aims to optimize the design of filament-wound multilayer-sandwich submersible pressure hulls, taking into consideration the shell buckling strength constraint, the angle-ply laminated facing failure strength constraint and the low-density isotropic core yielding strength constraint under hydrostatic pressure using the hybrid genetic algorithm (HGA). The thickness of the facing, the thickness of the core layer, the orientation angle of the fibers in the facings and the shear modulus of the core material are taken as design variables. A sensitivity analysis is performed to study the effects of the operational depths and the hull shell geometry parameter, the length-to-diameter ratio (L/D), on the optimal design of filament-wound multilayer-sandwich submersible pressure hulls with graphite/epoxy, glass/epoxy and boron/epoxy composite facings. The results reveal that the optimal weight of various sandwich pressure hulls increases linearly with the operational depth, but it is almost unchanged as the geometry paramter. Furthermore, Graphite/Epoxy is the best choice for the material of the facings in a light-weight design. With reference to wall design, Boron/Epoxy is the best choice for the material of the facing at shallow depths, but Graphite/Epoxy is the best choice at extreme depths. Results of this study provide a valuable reference for designers of underwater vehicles.