The effect of a topographic high on the morphological stability of a two-inlet bay system

The cross-sectional stability of two tidal inlets connecting the same back-barrier lagoon to the ocean is investigated. The condition for equilibrium is the cross-sectional area tidal prism relationship. In an earlier study [Van de Kreeke, J., 1990. Can multiple inlets be stable? Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 30: 261–273.], using the same equilibrium condition, it was concluded that where two inlets connect the same basin to the ocean ultimately one inlet will close. One of the major assumptions in that study was that the water level in the basin fluctuated uniformly. In hindsight this assumption might be too restrictive. For example, in the Wadden Sea the back barrier lagoon consists of a series of basins, rather than one single basin, separated by topographic highs. These topographic highs limit but do not exclude the exchange of water between the sub-basins. For this reason in the present study, a topographic high in the form of a weir was added, separating the back-barrier lagoon in two sub-basins. The water level in the sub-basins, rather than in the back-barrier as a whole, is assumed to fluctuate uniformly. For this schematization the hydrodynamic equations are solved using a finite difference method. The results, together with the equilibrium condition, yield the equilibrium flow curve for each of the inlets. The intersections of the two equilibrium flow curves represent combinations of cross-sectional areas for which both inlets are in equilibrium. The stability of the equilibriums was investigated using a non-linear stability analysis resulting in a flow diagram. Calculations were carried out for different inlet and weir characteristics. Sinussoidal tides were the same for both inlets. The results show that for relatively large wetted cross-sectional areas over the topographic high, approaching the situation of a single basin, there are no combinations of inlet cross-sectional areas for which both inlets are in a stable equilibrium. This supports the conclusion in the earlier study. For relatively small wetted cross-sectional areas over the topographic high there is one set of stable equilibriums. In that case the two-inlet bay system approaches that of two single-inlet bay systems.     

Direct determination of tidal levels for engineering applications based on biological observations

The scarcity of tide gauges in a global scale and the variability of the tidal levels along contiguous coasts mainly due to changing hydrographic conditions make the determination of tidal levels, especially of the Mean Sea Level, not an easy task. Determination of such levels with a precision of about 10 cm, necessary for most coastal engineering works, is usually based on records of temporary tide gauges or on geomorphological techniques. In this paper we present an alternative approach permitting to accurately identify tidal levels with a precision suitable for civil engineering applications based on biological observations on rocky shores, including breakwaters and quays. More specifically, we present evidence that the biological zonation, i.e. the distribution of coastal species in well-defined sub-horizontal belts, is practically insensitive to seasonal and other small-scale fluctuations of the sea level and is clearly related to certain levels, mostly the Mean Low Water (MLW). This approach, somewhat similar to what has been used in the past (for instance for the determination of the geodetic vertical datum in the Republic of Venice, Italy, till approximately AD 1800), permits direct determination of the Mean Sea Level or of other tidal levels on the basis of biological observations without statistical analyses of tide-gauge records with an accuracy of 5–10 cm, especially in microtidal, low-energy coasts.     

Analysis of second-order resonance in wave interactions with floating bodies through a finite-element method

A time-domain method is employed to analyse the resonant oscillations of the liquid confined within the two floating bodies. The velocity potentials at each time step are obtained through a finite-element method (FEM) with quadratic shape functions. The matrix equation of the FEM is solved through an iteration. The radiation condition is satisfied through a combination of the damping zone method and the Sommerfeld–Orlanski equation. A detailed analysis is made for two rectangular floating cylinders undergoing forced oscillation. The first-order potential reveals the resonant behaviour of the wave motion at certain frequencies ω_i, which is similar to sloshing in a tank. More interestingly, the second-order theory further reveals that when the oscillation frequency is at ω_i/2 or half of the resonant frequency, no first-order resonance is observed as expected, but the second-order resonant motion becomes evident, which does not seem to have been extensively investigated so far. Detailed results for two rectangular cylinders are provided to show some insights into the resonant effect due to the interaction between the bodies. The first- and second-order resonant phenomena have been observed and the result has shown that the second-order components have significant influence on the wave and force in some cases, especially at the second-order resonance.     

Large-scale dune erosion tests to study the influence of wave periods

Large-scale physical model tests were performed to quantify the effects of the wave period on dune erosion. Attention was focussed on 2D cross-shore effects in a situation with sandy dunes and extreme water levels and wave conditions. Besides profile measurements, detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near near-shore area. It was concluded that a longer wave period leads to a larger dune erosion volume and to a larger landward retreat of the dune face. Tests with double-peaked wave spectra showed that the influence of the spectral shape on dune erosion was best represented by the T_m − 1,0 spectral mean wave period, better than the peak wave period, T_p. The effect of the wave period on dune erosion was implemented in a dune erosion prediction method that estimates erosion volumes during normative storm conditions for the Dutch coast. More details of the measurements and additional analyses of physical processes are described in an accompanying paper by Van Thiel de Vries et al. [Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., van Gent, M.R.A., Reniers, A.J.H.M. and Walstra, D.J.R., submitted for publication. Analysis of dune erosion processes in large scale flume experiments, In this volume of Coastal Engineering.].     

Momentum and gravity effects during the constant velocity water entry of wedge-shaped sections

Computational fluid dynamics analysis was used to investigate the added mass momentum, flow momentum and gravity effects during the constant velocity water entry of wedge-shaped sections with deadrise angles from 5° to 45°. It is shown that the added mass continues to increase for a time after chine immersion and that added mass can be estimated in terms of a constant added mass coefficient and an effective wetted width. A momentum theory is presented in which the water entry force is explained as the sum of the rate of change of added mass momentum, which becomes zero at immersion to chine depth ratios greater than about three, and the rate of change of flow momentum, which continues at deep immersions. The effect of gravity on the water entry force is given as the hydrostatic force together with the force necessary to create the potential energy in the water pile up. Hydrodynamic forces are not significantly changed by the effect of gravity on the flow fields.     

1997–1998 El Niño off Peru: A numerical study

An eddy-resolving numerical simulation for the Peru–Chile system between 1993 and 2000 is analyzed, mainly for the 1997–1998 El Niño. Atmospheric and lateral oceanic forcings are realistic and contain a wide range of scales from days to interannual. The solution is validated against altimetric observations and the few in situ observations available. The simulated 1997–1998 El Niño closely resembles the real 1997–1998 El Niño in its time sequence of events. The two well-marked, sea-level peaks in May–June and November–December 1997 are reproduced with amplitudes close to those observed. Other sub-periods of the El Niño seem to be captured adequately. Simple dynamical analyses are performed to explain the 1997–1998 evolution of the upwelling in the model. The intensity of the upwelling appears to be determined by an interplay between alongshore, poleward advection (related to coastal trapped waves) and wind intensity, but also by the cross-shore geostrophic flow and distribution of the water masses on a scale of 1000 km or more (involving Rossby waves westward propagation and advection from equatorial currents). In particular, the delay of upwelling recovery until fall 1998 (i.e., well after the second El Niño peak) is partly due to the persistent advection of offshore stratified water toward the coast of Peru. Altimetry data suggest that these interpretations of the numerical solution also apply to the real ocean.     

Conspicuous sediment structures in fossil beach deposits (southern Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain): paleoliquefaction features versus biogenic origin

Tubular-shaped concretions and concretionary dykes occur in Holocene fossil beach deposits between the township of El Médano and Punta Roja in southern Tenerife, Canary Islands. These sediment structures have been interpreted either as the result of (a) the interaction between hot ignimbrites that overflowed wet beaches; (b) fast accumulation of beach sands on hot and degassing ignimbrites; (c) paleoliquefaction caused by an earthquake (seismites). Based on the interpretation as seismites, an intense paleoearthquake with a moment magnitude of M = 6.8 was proposed to be responsible for the generation of the paleoliquefaction structures. However, we here reinterpret the sedimentary structures in question using the general criteria diagnostic for rhizocretions and root tubules with respect to their orientation, size, branching system, and style of cementation and, thus, consider them, to be of biogenic origin.     

Estimation of the <Emphasis Type="Italic">in situ</Emphasis> Ultraviolet-A absorption of seawater by a simple irradiance inversion model

An irradiance inversion model to estimate the in situ absorption coefficient of seawater has been developed for the Ultraviolet-A (UVA) wavelength domain. Input parameters are sun angle and the up-and downward planar irradiances measured for at least two depths. The present method does not require seawater to be sampled, and is a discrete wavelength method which returns the absorption coefficient at a given wavelength from the irradiances measured at that wavelength without assuming a spectral shape of any optical properties a priori. Comparison between the model results and spectrophotometric measurements shows that the model is practically useful when cloud cover in the atmosphere is ≤ 50%. According to the present method, measurements of the irradiances enable simultaneous observation of the in situ underwater UVA radiation level and the absorption capacity of bulk seawater using a radiometer.