Direct determination of tidal levels for engineering applications based on biological observations

The scarcity of tide gauges in a global scale and the variability of the tidal levels along contiguous coasts mainly due to changing hydrographic conditions make the determination of tidal levels, especially of the Mean Sea Level, not an easy task. Determination of such levels with a precision of about 10 cm, necessary for most coastal engineering works, is usually based on records of temporary tide gauges or on geomorphological techniques. In this paper we present an alternative approach permitting to accurately identify tidal levels with a precision suitable for civil engineering applications based on biological observations on rocky shores, including breakwaters and quays. More specifically, we present evidence that the biological zonation, i.e. the distribution of coastal species in well-defined sub-horizontal belts, is practically insensitive to seasonal and other small-scale fluctuations of the sea level and is clearly related to certain levels, mostly the Mean Low Water (MLW). This approach, somewhat similar to what has been used in the past (for instance for the determination of the geodetic vertical datum in the Republic of Venice, Italy, till approximately AD 1800), permits direct determination of the Mean Sea Level or of other tidal levels on the basis of biological observations without statistical analyses of tide-gauge records with an accuracy of 5–10 cm, especially in microtidal, low-energy coasts.     

Analysis of second-order resonance in wave interactions with floating bodies through a finite-element method

A time-domain method is employed to analyse the resonant oscillations of the liquid confined within the two floating bodies. The velocity potentials at each time step are obtained through a finite-element method (FEM) with quadratic shape functions. The matrix equation of the FEM is solved through an iteration. The radiation condition is satisfied through a combination of the damping zone method and the Sommerfeld–Orlanski equation. A detailed analysis is made for two rectangular floating cylinders undergoing forced oscillation. The first-order potential reveals the resonant behaviour of the wave motion at certain frequencies ω_i, which is similar to sloshing in a tank. More interestingly, the second-order theory further reveals that when the oscillation frequency is at ω_i/2 or half of the resonant frequency, no first-order resonance is observed as expected, but the second-order resonant motion becomes evident, which does not seem to have been extensively investigated so far. Detailed results for two rectangular cylinders are provided to show some insights into the resonant effect due to the interaction between the bodies. The first- and second-order resonant phenomena have been observed and the result has shown that the second-order components have significant influence on the wave and force in some cases, especially at the second-order resonance.     

Momentum and gravity effects during the constant velocity water entry of wedge-shaped sections

Computational fluid dynamics analysis was used to investigate the added mass momentum, flow momentum and gravity effects during the constant velocity water entry of wedge-shaped sections with deadrise angles from 5° to 45°. It is shown that the added mass continues to increase for a time after chine immersion and that added mass can be estimated in terms of a constant added mass coefficient and an effective wetted width. A momentum theory is presented in which the water entry force is explained as the sum of the rate of change of added mass momentum, which becomes zero at immersion to chine depth ratios greater than about three, and the rate of change of flow momentum, which continues at deep immersions. The effect of gravity on the water entry force is given as the hydrostatic force together with the force necessary to create the potential energy in the water pile up. Hydrodynamic forces are not significantly changed by the effect of gravity on the flow fields.     

Assessment of boundary-element method for modelling a free-floating sloped wave energy device. Part 1: Numerical modelling

The boundary-element method has been widely used as a design tool in the offshore and ship building industry for more than 30 years. Its application to wave energy conversion is, however, more recent. This paper deals with the numerical modelling of a free-floating sloped wave energy device. The power take-off mechanism of the device consists of an immersed tube with a piston sliding inside. The modelling is done using the boundary-element method package WAMIT. The model is first worked out for the case where the axis of the tube is vertical. It is then derived for the tube inclined and successfully verified against numerical benchmark data. A companion paper presents results of a detailed comparison with a physical model study.     

1997–1998 El Niño off Peru: A numerical study

An eddy-resolving numerical simulation for the Peru–Chile system between 1993 and 2000 is analyzed, mainly for the 1997–1998 El Niño. Atmospheric and lateral oceanic forcings are realistic and contain a wide range of scales from days to interannual. The solution is validated against altimetric observations and the few in situ observations available. The simulated 1997–1998 El Niño closely resembles the real 1997–1998 El Niño in its time sequence of events. The two well-marked, sea-level peaks in May–June and November–December 1997 are reproduced with amplitudes close to those observed. Other sub-periods of the El Niño seem to be captured adequately. Simple dynamical analyses are performed to explain the 1997–1998 evolution of the upwelling in the model. The intensity of the upwelling appears to be determined by an interplay between alongshore, poleward advection (related to coastal trapped waves) and wind intensity, but also by the cross-shore geostrophic flow and distribution of the water masses on a scale of 1000 km or more (involving Rossby waves westward propagation and advection from equatorial currents). In particular, the delay of upwelling recovery until fall 1998 (i.e., well after the second El Niño peak) is partly due to the persistent advection of offshore stratified water toward the coast of Peru. Altimetry data suggest that these interpretations of the numerical solution also apply to the real ocean.     

Use of late ovarian atresia in describing spawning history of sardine, Sardina pilchardus

We investigated and compared the pattern of accumulation of recent and late atretic follicles in the ovaries of Iberian sardine, Sardina pilchardus, in relation to body size with the aim to examine whether late atresia can be used in back-calculations of individual spawning history. Oppositely to earlier stages, late atresia in sardine was shown to accumulate even at peak spawning periods in fish of larger size/age indicating a relationship between atretic intensity and the distant reproductive performance of the individuals. Despite the fact that intensity of late atresia was very high in some occasions, its accumulation was not shown to impede imminent spawning activity. Lack of dependence between imminent spawning activity and the intensity of late atresia was related to the differential pattern with which postovulatory and atretic follicles are associated to the lamellar epithelium of the ovary. Finally, the effect of the ‘reference trap’ which is a major source of bias when quantifying structures in stereological measurements, could be mediated or even completely removed by using a measure of ovarian growth, such as gonosomatic index in the present study, as a covariate when modeling variability in the intensity of atresia.     

Response of Nereis diversicolor population (Polychaeta,Nereididae) to the pollution impact – Authie and Seine estuaries (France)

A survey within the French National Programme of Ecotoxicology was carried out in 2002, 2003 and 2004 to study the response of Nereis diversicolor populations (Polychaeta, Nereididae) to the impact of pollution in the Authie estuary (non-contaminated site) and in the Seine estuary (contaminated site). In the period studied, the density varied from 672 ind. m⁻² to 3584 ind. m⁻² in the Authie estuary and from 80 ind. m⁻² to 920 ind. m⁻² in the Seine estuary. Biomass varied from 3.94 g m⁻² (dry weight) in February 2004 to 38.0 g m⁻² in August 2003 in the Authie estuary and from 3.4 g m⁻² in February 2002 to 0.6 g m⁻² in February 2004 in the Seine estuary. Density and biomass of the populations of N. diversicolor were consistently lower in the Seine estuary than in the Authie estuary. Size frequency histograms permit the analysis of the cohorts as well as the elaboration of the growth curves. For the individuals from the Authie estuary, the relation between dry weight (DW) and length L3 (prostomium, peristomium and chaetiger 1) was DW = 4.2205 L3^2.9832. For those from the Seine estuary, the relation between dry weight and L3 was DW = 0.4697e^1.7209L3. The individuals of N. diversicolor should belong to eight cohorts in Authie estuary (two cohorts each year) instead of six cohorts for those from the Seine estuary. These differences can be attributed to the effect of pollution on the population of N. diversicolor.     

Systematic marine conservation planning in data-poor regions: Socioeconomic data is essential

Systematic planning for conservation is highly regarded but relies on spatially explicit data that are lacking in many areas of conservation concern. The decision support tool Marxan is applied to a reef system in the central Philippines where 30 marine protected areas (MPAs) have been established in communities without much use of biophysical data. The intent was to explore how Marxan might assist with the legally required expansion to protect 15% of marine waters, and how existing MPAs might affect that process. Results show that biophysical information alone did not provide much guidance in identifying patterns of conservation importance in areas where the data are poor. Socioeconomic data were needed to distinguish among possible areas for protection; but here, as elsewhere in marine environments, the availability of such data was very limited. In the final analysis, local knowledge and integrated understanding of socioeconomic realities may offer the best spatially explicit information. The 30 existing MPAs, which encompassed a small proportion of the reef system, did not limit future options in developing a suite of MPAs on a broader scale. Rather, they appeared to generate the support for MPAs that is obligatory for any larger zoning effort. In summary, establishing MPAs based on community-driven criteria has biological and social value, but efforts should be made to collect ecological and socioeconomic data to guide the continued creation of MPAs.     

Large bio-geographical shifts in the north-eastern Atlantic Ocean: From the subpolar gyre, via plankton, to blue whiting and pilot whales

Pronounced changes in fauna, extending from the English Channel in the south to the Barents Sea in the north-east and off Greenland in the north-west, have occurred in the late 1920s, the late 1960s and again in the late 1990s. We attribute these events to exchanges of subarctic and subtropical water masses in the north-eastern North Atlantic Ocean, associated with changes in the strength and extent of the subpolar gyre. These exchanges lead to variations in the influence exerted by the subarctic or Lusitanian biomes on the intermediate faunistic zone in the north-eastern Atlantic. This strong and persistent bottom-up bio-physical link is demonstrated using a numerical ocean general circulation model and data on four trophically connected levels in the food chain – phytoplankton, zooplankton, blue whiting, and pilot whales. The plankton data give a unique basin-scale depiction of these changes, and a long pilot whale record from the Faroe Islands offers an exceptional temporal perspective over three centuries. Recent advances in simulating the dynamics of the subpolar gyre suggests a potential for predicting the distribution of the main faunistic zones in the north-eastern Atlantic a few years into the future, which might facilitate a more rational management of the commercially important fisheries in this region.