Boussinesq-type modelling using an unstructured finite element technique

A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model.     

Reflection of large-scale inhomogeneities in the air-sea boundary layer on the intensity of surface wave breaking in the ocean

An overview of experiments is given on the observation of the dependence of the intensity of wind wave breaking on large-scale currents' inhomogeneities and atmospheric boundary layer stratification. The data were interpreted using a model in which the variance of the wind wave breaking intensity reflects fluctuations in the influx of energy to wind waves due to various factors. Translated by V. Puchkin.     

The effects of vehicular and pedestrian traffic on dune vegetation in South Africa

The effects of varying intensities of off-road vehicle and pedestrian traffic on vegetation height and percent-cover were investigated at two sites representing pioneer and climax dune shrubland communities in South African dune systems. In all cases, a decreasing trend in vegetation height and percentage cover subsequent to application of the treatments was evident, although this was more clear in the shrub than in the pioneer community. The impact on vegetation variables increased with increasing intensity of vehicle and pedestrian treatments. Vehicles driven along a curved path resulted in greater vegetation destruction than those driven along a straight path. High intensity (single application) treatments resulted in an initial decrease in vegetation height and cover immediately after the impact, which was followed by a further decline over the next 3 months. This two-step response was attributed to the subsequent gradual death of the vegetation which was not evident immediately following the impact. Due to their faster growth rate, pioneer dune communities appear to have the capacity to recover following impacts, while dune shrub communities tend to be more vulnerable, exhibiting signs of damage for longer periods. The results of this study have value for managers of coastal dune systems, particularly those impacted by human recreational activities.     

Determination of nutrient salts by automatic methods both in seawater and brackish water: the phosphate blank

The main inconvenience in determining nutrients in seawater by automatic methods is simply solved: the preparation of a suitable blank which corrects the effect of the refractive index change on the recorded signal. Two procedures are proposed, one physical (a simple equation to estimate the effect) and the other chemical (removal of the dissolved phosphorus with ferric hydroxide).     

The Contribution of Secondary Space to Benthic Taxon Richness of a Coral Reef: Colonisation of Dendrostrea frons (Mollusca)

Abstract. The reef‐dwelling oyster Dendrostrea frons occupied only a small proportion of space in coral reefs of the Quirimba Archipelago, Mozambique, but supported a disproportionately high variety of taxa. Assemblages on primary (substratum), secondary (dead coral heads) and ephemeral secondary space (D. frons shells) of similar area were compared across 5 depths (5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 m) and at four taxonomic levels (species, genus, class and phylum). Differences between the taxonomic richness of each type of space differed with both taxonomic level considered and depth. Of the three categories of space considered, ephemeral secondary space had the most taxa at all levels with the maximum at 10 – 15 m. Despite being small in space and time, animal externa, such as shells of D. frons, may provide important niches for particular organisms at many taxonomic levels.     

Effects of ship motion on a neutrally-stable towed fish

Digital computer simulation in two dimensions of a neutrally-stable fish towed on a faired cable has been used to investigate the response of the fish to disturbances in the ship motion. The numerical methods used are described broadly, excluding mathematical detail, and selected results are presented which indicate typical behaviour of the system.The free oscillations of the fish-cable system and its response to deterministic and random ship disturbances are investigated. This reveals the dynamic principles governing the motion and allows the formulation of simple rules to give a first approximation to the magnitude of the fish response. It is shown that, provided resonances of the ship and fish-cable system do not coincide, the overall amplitude of motion of the fish is proportional to the sine of the angle made by the top of the cable with the horizontal. Formulae are given for calculating approximately the resonant frequencies of the towed system.     

Random wave-current interactions in water of varying depth

Refraction of incoherent random gravity waves with currents and bottom topography results in spatial variations in the spectral characteristics of the free surface. Prediction of such variations based on the radiation transfer equation is in a simple analytic form for the case of one dimensional inhomogeneities in currents and topography. This analytic form is examined in terms of two-dimensional wave number- and polar frequency-direction spectra along the associated dynamic and kinematic constraints relevant to wave breaking and reflection. Results are specialized to the simplest case of horizontal shear currents in deep and shallow water with explicit examples to illustrate the relative and combined effects of currents and topography on free surface spectra.