Burial and scour around short cylinder under progressive shoaling waves

The results of a laboratory experimental program aimed at better understanding the scour around and burial of heavy cylindrical objects under oscillating flow on a sandy bed are described. This study was motivated by its application to the dynamics of isolated cobbles/mines on a sandy floor under nonlinear progressive waves, such as that occur in shallow coastal waters beyond the wave-breaking region. In the experiments, nonlinear progressive waves were generated in a long wave tank of rectangular cross-section with a bottom slope. Model mines (short cylinders) were placed on the sandy bottom and the temporal evolution of the bed profile and the velocity field in the near field of the object were observed. Experiments were conducted at relatively high Reynolds numbers for a range of flow conditions, which can be characterized by the Keulegan–Carpenter number and Shields parameter. Depending on the values of these parameters, four different scour regimes around the cylinder including periodical burial of cylinder under migrating sand ripples were observed; they were classified as: (i) no scour/burial, (ii) initial scour, (iii) expanded scour, and (iv) periodic burial cases. A scour regime diagram was developed and the demarcation criteria between different regimes were deduced. Semi-empirical formulae that permit estimation of the scour depth with time, the equilibrium maximum scour depth and length, and conditions necessary for the burial of the cylinder as a function of main external parameters are also proposed.     

A note on estimation of the Jacobian elliptic parameter in cnoidal wave theory

A new and simple calculating technique for the Jacobian elliptic parameter is presented in this study. The technique is very useful in generating a train of cnoidal waves in both laboratory and numerical wave tanks. Upon specification of water depth, the wave height and either the wave period or the wavelength, the proposed technique uses the Newton–Raphson method to estimate the Jacobian elliptic parameter directly, without trial and error procedures or look-up in tables. It is shown that the technique provides equally accurate results as the ad hoc methods previously used.     

The intertidal erosion rate of cohesive sediment: a case study from Long Island Sound

Over the past decades, many attempts have been made to generate useful bottom erosion models for the study of cohesive sediment movement. This study addresses some of the key questions involved in determining the functional relationship between erosion rate and bottom shear stress. Current, wave, and turbidity data were collected from a bottom mounted instrument array in a moderately energetic estuarine environment. The bottom shear stress was calculated from a wave–current interaction model. The erosion rate was derived from the observed sediment concentration using a vertical mixing model. Examination of the relationship between erosion rate and bottom stress showed that the erosion rate varied at intertidal frequency. When averaged over the tidal fluctuation, the erosion rate remained approximately constant at low stress, but increased sharply when the shear stress rose above a critical value. This suggests two-stage erosion. The bed has a layered structure, in which a thin layer of loose, high water content material overlies a more consolidated bed. The top layer of high water content material (fluff) was easily disturbed and re-suspended by tidal currents, but the consolidated bottom layer was eroded only under conditions of high shear stress.     

Decadal Variability of Subsurface Temperature in the Central North Pacific

Decadal variability of subsurface temperature in the North Pacific has been investigated. Two dominant regions were found; the central subarctic region (CSa) and the north-eastern subtropical region (NESt). In CSa, cooling (warming) of wintertime subsurface temperature corresponds to the large (small) temperature gradient and southward (northward) shift of subsurface temperature front, associated with the increase (decrease) of positive wind stress curl and the southward (northward) shift of curl τ zero line with 2 years delay. It is suggested that the relocation of subtropical-subarctic boundary plays an important role. In NESt, importance of heat flux through the sea surface and heat divergence in the Ekman layer is also discussed. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Outer wave number spectrum and statistical distribution of apparent wave number vector

Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins’s linear model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper.     

Seasonal variation of Mn adsorption on to calcareous surfaces in the English Channel, and its implication on the manganese distribution coefficient

Dissolved and particulate manganese in seawater samples derived from the English Channel has been analyzed using graphite furnace atomic absorption (GFAAS), and inductively coupled plasma atomic emission (ICP—AES) spectroscopies. Because of the high contents of carbonate minerals found in the suspended matter samples, the English Channel constitutes an ideal field area for the study of the Mn²⁺/Ca²⁺/CaCO₃ system. Owing to the chemical speciation of particulate manganese and the combined use of the X-ray diffraction and electron spin resonance spectroscopy we have shown the importance of the carbonate phase in the stabilization of manganese (II). This has been confirmed by p-pH measurements in the field. All these studies have also indicated that: (1) manganese is associated with calcite in the form of a solid solution, Mn_xCa_1−xCO₃; and (2) significant increases in the concentrations of particulate manganese, especially in offshore waters, occur in summer. This seasonal phenomenon has been attributed to the proliferation of coccolithophorids, which are known to be covered with calcified skeletons at high specific surface areas. To appraise the implication of the coccolithophorid-blooms phenomenon on the Mn²⁺/Ca²⁺/CaCO₃ system, we have used the manganese distribution coefficient, D_i, between the liquid phase and CaCO₃ particles. Overall we have shown that: (1) D_i in summer (i.e. when coccoliths considered as very fine-grained calcite are abundant) is much higher than that obtained in winter; and (2) in the vicinity of the French coast, D_i does not vary significantly even in summer. This is because of the high content of chalk-derived particles found in the near-shore waters.     

Outbreak of warm water from the Kuroshio South of Japan

During the concentrated observation (April–May 1988) conducted as a part of the Ocean Mixed Layer Experiment (OMLET) in the sea area south of Japan, a conspicuous outbreak of warm water occurred from the large-meander region of the Kuroshio toward the southwest in the direction of the former Ocean Weather Station “T”. A series of NOAA-AVHRR infrared images clearly showed the process of this event. A surface buoy-mooring system deployed in this experiment recorded the arrival of this outbreak of water, in terms of the rise of sea-surface temperature (SST) of 1.5°C and the flow of warm water of 1.5kt toward the northwest at “T”. We studied this phenomenon by combining time series of infrared SST images with the oceanographic data obtained by two research vessels. The warm water was about 100 m deep in the section at 137°E along the edge of the Off-Shikoku Warm Water. It was estimated that about twenty outbreaks of this kind in a year can compensate a large heat loss to the atmosphere above this ocean region.     

Measurements of higher harmonic wave forces on a vertical truncated circular cylinder

Wave forces on a vertical truncated circular cylinder in Stokes waves with the wave slopes ranging from 0.06 to 0.24, are measured in a wave tank. The higher harmonic wave forces are compared with the available values from theories of the FNV (Faltisen–Newman–Vinje) model and Varyani solution. The first harmonic horizontal forces measured are much larger than the theoretical values from the FNV model, while the first harmonic vertical forces are well predicted by the Varyani theory. It was also found that the FNV model significantly overpredicts the second harmonic horizontal forces in high frequency waves, but under predicts the third harmonic forces. The differences between the actual measurement and the theory, in the second and third harmonic horizontal forces, become smaller at low wave frequencies as the wave slope increases. In addition, the transverse instabilities in the incoming waves with high wave slope were observed, which is due to the nonlinear modulation. Measurements were, thus, carried out before the instability occurred.     

Comparison of two three-dimensional hydrodynamic modeling systems for coastal tidal motion

A comparison of two three-dimensional numerical modeling systems for tidal elevations and velocities in the coastal waters is presented. The two modeling systems are: (1) the Princeton Ocean Model (POM) and (2) the MIKE 3 flow model. The model performance results for Singapore's coastal waters show that the predicted tidal elevations from the two hydrodynamic modeling systems are almost identical and are in very good agreement with field measurement data. The simulated tidal current velocities match well with field measurement data at the selected stations, but it seems that the POM provides the slightly better simulation, compared to the MIKE 3 flow model. The depth profiles of the velocities obtained from the two modeling systems may be greatly different at some time, due to the vertical diffusion coefficient calculated from different turbulent sub-models in the two modeling systems. The POM generally predicts larger peak tidal velocities. The maximum speed differences for the model results from the two modeling systems occur in the top and differ from time to time and from location to location, reaching up to 20%.     

Reduction of hydroelastic responses of a very-long floating structure by a floating oscillating-water-column breakwater system

The hydroelastic responses of a very-long floating structure (VLFS) placed behind a reverse T-shape freely floating breakwater with a built-in oscillating water column (OWC) chamber are analyzed in two dimensions. The Bernoulli–Euler beam equation is coupled with the equations of rigid and elastic motions of the breakwater and the VLFS. The interaction of waves between the floating rigid breakwater and the elastic VLFS is formulated in a consistent manner. It has been shown numerically that the structural deflections of the VLFS can be reduced significantly by a suitably designed reverse T-shape floating breakwater.