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151.
Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins’s linear model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper.  相似文献   
152.
S.C. Chang  J.G. Lin  L.K. Chien  Y.F. Chiu   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(17-18):2311-2329
In this study, the dynamic stresses within the seabed induced by non-linear progressive waves were explored through a series of hydraulic model tests on a movable bed within a wave flume. By comparing Stokes’ 2nd-order wave theory with the theory of wave-induced dynamic stresses within the seabed as proposed by Yamamoto et al. [1978. On the response of a poro-elastic bed to water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 87 (1), 193–206.] and Hsu and Jeng [1994. Wane-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. International Journal for Numerical and Analytical Methods in Geomechanics 18, 785–807], the experimental results show that the pressure on the seabed surface, the pore water pressure within the seabed as well as the vertical and the horizontal stresses are all smaller than their theoretical values. If we were to obtain the characteristics of seabed soil, the analytical solution of Hsu and Jeng [1994. Wane-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. International Journal for Numerical and Analytical Methods in Geomechanics 18, 785–807] might agree to the simulation of the wave-induced effective stresses and shear stress in the sandy seabed. A different phase shift exists among all the three soil stresses. Their influences on the three dynamic stresses within seabed soil are important for seabed stability, and can be used in the verification of numerical models. In the whole, the non-linear progressive waves and the naturally deposited seabed are found to have a strong interaction, and the behavior of the induced dynamic stresses within the seabed is very complicated, and should be investigated integrally.  相似文献   
153.
Effects of the presence of a circumpolar region on buoyancy-driven circulation are investigated by using an idealized numerical ocean model. Comparison of circulation and meridional density (heat) transport is made between a closed ocean and an ocean with a cyclic gap near its southern boundary. The presence of the circumpolar region leads to disconnection of the meridional overturning across the circumpolar region. And the circumpolar eastward flow reaches the bottom of the ocean. It is essential for this that the pycnocline is deeper than the bottom of the gap. Since the amount of the mass transported northward must return southward at the levels deeper than the bottom of the cyclic gap, the weak stratification, hence weak vertical geostrophic shear, at the deeper levels leads to inactive communication across the circumpolar region. Meridional heat transport across the circumpolar region is made mainly by horizontal diffusion for the ocean with the cyclic gap, while the contribution of the advection is dominant for the closed ocean. Sensitivity of meridional heat transport to change in horizontal diffusivity is studied. The meridional heat transport for the ocean with the cyclic gap is more sensitive than for the closed ocean. The change in heat transport occurs not only in the circumpolar region but also in the rest of the ocean. It is suggested that subgrid scale phenomena, especially mesoscale eddies, in the circumpolar region controls the whole ocean to a great extent.  相似文献   
154.
During the SOPACMAPS 2 crusie carried out by IFREMER (Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer) and ORSTOM (Institut Français de Recherche Scientifique pour le dévelopement en Coopération) on theR/V L'Atalante, in the Central Solomon Arc area, multibeam bathymetric and imagery data and single-channel seismic reflection profiles were collected from an area of about 3500 km2, to evaluate regional tectonics. Structural data geophysical profiles interpretation provide evidence for left-lateral transtensional tectonics on the southern edge of the Central Solomon Trough. This transtensional deformation is represented by faulting, block tilting, and rhombohedral deformation. The regional geology and the analysis of the sedimentary cover allow us to demonstrate that this tectonic occurred in two different phases during Oligocene to Miocene and Pliocene to Pleistocene times.  相似文献   
155.
In the northwestern margin of the Clarion and Clipperton fracture zones, manganese nodules are latitudinally variable in character, resulting from the progressive (re)generation of nodules since the Oligocene as the Pacific Plate migrates northwestward beneath the equatorial production zone. Complemented by the surface water productivity, bottom current activities have concentrated nodules in the Oligocene to Miocene siliceous clay. Resedimentation processes on nodules form three types of nodules with concentric structures and 10 Å-manganaterich bottoms, by periodically causing the diagenetic growth of nodules within the topmost sediment layer.  相似文献   
156.
The drainage pattern in the northeast and central Tufts Abyssal Plain is described in detail. Satellite navigation on the systematic survey has allowed precise location of the major channel systems of the northeast Pacific Ocean. Two hundred channel profiles were collected from the echograms showing the Moresby-Scott, Mukluk, and Horizon Channel Systems trending in either a southwestward or westward direction across this section of the Tufts Plain. The channel profiles illustrate the prominence of the higher and wider right-hand levee (facing downstream). The Moresby-Scott Channel System disperses in the form of several distributaries throughout the area studied, and is probably responsible for much of the sediment deposits. Unlike the Moresby-Scott, the Mukluk extends throughout the survey area as a solitary channel with one minor branch. The Horizon Channel crosses the Sedna Fracture Zone east of the Sedna Seamount and terminates in distributary fashion in the central portion of the Tufts Plain. The Moresby-Scott, Mukluk, and Horizon Channels form one major system which encompasses the entire northeast and central Tufts Abyssal Plain.  相似文献   
157.
Physical oceanography   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
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158.
Several areas of erosion and accretion were observed along the Burullus-Gamasa beach. The accreted sands are coarser and less sorted than the eroded ones. Differentiation between them could be achieved on the basis of their grain-size fractions, shape of grain-size distribution curves and statistical grain-size parameter relationships.  相似文献   
159.
OBS’s were deployed for 26 to 29 days in the eastern Bismarck Sea to investigate the back-arc spreading. Hypocenters of 186 shallow earthquakes were determined using P- and S-waves from at least five stations. In the western survey area, a transform fault zone is marked by a linear micro-earthquake activity striking N65°W and less than 5 km wide. The predominant type of their focal mechanisms is strike-slip. In the eastern area, several intermittent zones of micro-earthquakes and their strike-slip type focal mechanisms suggest the location of short-length transform faults separating en-echelon spreading ridges.  相似文献   
160.
During the concentrated observation (April–May 1988) conducted as a part of the Ocean Mixed Layer Experiment (OMLET) in the sea area south of Japan, a conspicuous outbreak of warm water occurred from the large-meander region of the Kuroshio toward the southwest in the direction of the former Ocean Weather Station “T”. A series of NOAA-AVHRR infrared images clearly showed the process of this event. A surface buoy-mooring system deployed in this experiment recorded the arrival of this outbreak of water, in terms of the rise of sea-surface temperature (SST) of 1.5°C and the flow of warm water of 1.5kt toward the northwest at “T”. We studied this phenomenon by combining time series of infrared SST images with the oceanographic data obtained by two research vessels. The warm water was about 100 m deep in the section at 137°E along the edge of the Off-Shikoku Warm Water. It was estimated that about twenty outbreaks of this kind in a year can compensate a large heat loss to the atmosphere above this ocean region.  相似文献   
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