Scour at the head of a vertical-wall breakwater

This paper presents the results of an experimental investigation on the near-bed flow patterns, the bed shear stress amplification and scour around the head of a vertical-wall breakwater, using regular waves. The Keulegan-Carpenter number (KC), based on the diameter of the breakwater head, is found to be the major parameter that governs the flow and the equilibrium scour depth. Basic flow structures are identified as function of KC. The scour depth is found to increase with increasing the Keulegan-Carpenter number. The necessary extent of the conventional stone protection is studied. An empirical formula is worked out for the width of the protection layer as function of KC. Also, the effects of head shape, the angle of attack and the presence of a co-directional current are investigated. The results indicate that the scour depth is increased considerably in the presence of a current. Likewise, the scour depth is increased when the head shape is changed from a round shape to a sharp-edged one. It is found that the angle of attack is also an influencing factor as regards the scour depth.     

Provenance and dispersal of muds south of the Aleutian arc,north Pacific Ocean

X-ray diffraction analyses show that the clay mineralogies of near-surface muds in the Gulf of Alaska (mostly illite and chlorite) are consistent with detrital sources in southern Alaska. Expandable clay minerals are derived from the Aleutian volcanic arc, and their percentages increase progressively toward the west. Smectite values are lower than expected, however, particularly in the central forearc, and there is less smectite on the insular trench slope than farther seaward. The regional clay-mineral distribution is controlled by two opposed contour currents and by the influx of suspended sediment via both transverse and trench-axis turbidity currents.     

Reproductive Cycle of the Caribbean Feather Star Nemaster rubiginosa (Echinodermata: Crinoidea)

Abstract. The reproductive cycle of the comatulid crinoid Nemaster rubiginosa from Discovery Bay, Jamaica is described histologically. The cycle is annual and may be divided into (1) a "resting" phase (summer) in which most adults possess immature, unsexable gonads, (2) a recovery phase (early fall) marked by the re-initiation of gametogenesis and rapid gonadal growth, (3) a breeding phase (late fall and winter) during which the gonads are mature and repeated spawning likely takes place, and (4) a post-spawning phase (spring) during which relict gametes are removed from the shrinking gonads. Although unsexable individuals predominate during the "resting" phase, a small proportion of the adult population is unsexable at all times of the year. The reproductive condition of animals in the same month in two successive years was very similar, suggesting that the timing of reproduction is quite predictable from year to year. The re-initiation of gametogenesis in the early fall is correlated with both rising sea temperature and shortening daylength, and the October to March breeding season corresponds to the period of short daylengths at the study site. The well-defined and synchronized annual reproductive cycle of Nemaster rubiginosa contrasts with the more prolonged and variable reproductive cycles reported for other tropical crinoids and points to a diversity of breeding patterns among tropical crinoids.     

Turbulent structure of the subsurface layer of the sea according to the data of the <Emphasis Type="Italic">Sigma-1</Emphasis> measuring complex

We present the results of experimental investigations of the characteristics of turbulence in the layer of wave-induced mixing. The data on the fluctuations of velocity, temperature, and conductivity are obtained with the help of a Sigma-1 measuring complex. The computed values of the dissipation rate of turbulent energy are compared with different models proposed for the subsurface layer. It is shown that the available models fail to guarantee satisfactory agreement of the numerical results with the experimental data for the layer of active wave action and, in particular, in the presence of swell. This leads us to the conclusion concerning the necessity of parametrization and assimilation of more complete data on the state of the sea surface, the structure of currents, and the surface layer of the atmosphere in the models. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 2, pp. 15–28, March–April, 2007.     

Breaking of a tidal internal wave on a steep shelf as inferred from temperature measurements

The structure, evolution, and breaking of a tidal internal wave on a steep shelf are discussed on the basis of the data of temperature measurements. The bottom slope at the measurement site is close to the critical slope for a tidal wave. The tidal wave and other waves are inclined coastward. The tidal-wave amplitude increases monotonically with increasing horizon depth. The tidal wave is nonlinear in amplitude and turns over on the outer shelf. On the inner shelf, the internal wave is close in shape to rectangular and generates harmonics of its own. The harmonics make the tidal wave steeper and form solitary rises similar to bilateral bores. All these features ensure a more rapid sink for the internal-tide energy.     

Study of macroaggregate composition using FT-IR and H-NMR spectroscopy

Mucous macroaggregates, recently observed in the northern Adriatic in summer of 1997 and late spring of 2000, are primarily the product of phytoplankton (diatom) exudates during favourable environmental conditions in late spring, and can be viewed as macrogels. The FT-IR and ¹H-NMR spectra of macroaggregate samples from the northern Adriatic, collected in different formation stages in July 1997, August 1997, September 1997 and June 2000, as well as of cultured diatom Skeletonema costatum, showed that they are similar and composed of aliphatic components and polysaccharides bonded through carboxylic and amide groups, and organosilicon compounds. The stability of macrogels of macroaggregates is, according to FT-IR and X-ray analyses, most probably enhanced by interactions with entrapped particles of calcite, quartz and clay minerals. These organic-mineral associations seem to be important for mucous phenomena. According to ¹H-NMR spectra, the temporal differences in macroaggregate composition show a relative increasing percentage of organosilicon compounds and aliphatic components bonded to carbohydrates through ester and amide groups, and an increasing ratio between aliphatic structures and carbohydrates. This indicates that aliphatic chains bonded to Si and carbohydrates may contribute to the persistence and stability of macroaggregates in the summer stratified waters in the northern Adriatic, while the temporal decrease of carbohydrate content is most probably due to microbial and photochemical degradation of algal reserve polysaccharides.     

Geochemical cycling in the Hooghly estuary, India

U–Th decay series isotopes, δ¹⁸O and Si measurements in the river estuarine waters and sediments of the polluted Hooghly estuary as well as the surface waters of the Bay of Bengal, its high salinity end member, are reported. Dissolved Si indicates that there are probably two mixing regimes, dissolved U behaviour is nonconservative and δ¹⁸O behaves conservatively in the overall estuarine region. Isotopes of reactive elements, viz. ²³⁴Th and ²¹⁰Po, are removed from the estuarine waters in <2 days and <1 month, respectively, which is due to high suspended matter (30–301 mg l⁻¹). ²²⁸Ra and ²²⁶Ra are profusely released into the estuarine waters in the low to mid-salinity regions.As expected, the opposite trend is observed in the case of estuarine sediments and suspended matter. Reactive isotopes of Th, ²¹⁰Pb and ²¹⁰Po are enriched, whereas Ra isotopes are depleted with respect to their parent nuclides in the estuarine sediments and suspended matter. ²³²Th/Al ratio appears well suited to study the distribution and mixing of the bed load sediments of the Ganga–Brahmaputra (G–B) and the Hooghly rivers with those from other rivers on the Bay of Bengal floor.     

Deep ocean fluxes and their link to surface ocean processes and the biological pump

Intense studies of upper and deep ocean processes were carried out in the Northwestern Indian Ocean (Arabian Sea) within the framework of JGOFS and related projects in order to improve our understanding of the marine carbon cycle and the ocean’s role as a reservoir for atmospheric CO₂. The results show a pronounced monsoon-driven seasonality with enhanced organic carbon fluxes into the deep-sea during the SW Monsoon and during the early and late NE Monsoon north of 10°N. The productivity is mainly regulated by inputs of nutrients from subsurface waters into the euphotic zone via upwelling and mixed layer-deepening. Deep mixing introduces light limitation by carrying photoautotrophic organisms below the euphotic zone during the peak of the NE Monsoon. Nevertheless, deep mixing and strong upwelling during the SW Monsoon provide an ecological advantage for diatoms over other photoautotrophic organisms by increasing the silica concentrations in the euphotic zone. When silica concentrations fall below 2 μmol l⁻¹, diatoms lose their dominance in the plankton community. During diatom-dominated blooms, the biological pathway of uptake of CO₂ (the biological pump) appears to be more efficient than during blooms of other organisms, as indicated by organic carbon to carbonate carbon (rain) ratios. Due to the seasonal alternation of diatom and non-diatom dominated exports, spatial variations of the annual mean rain ratios are hardly discernible along the main JGOFS transect.Data-based estimates of the annual mean impact of the biological pump on the fCO₂ in the surface water suggest that the biological pump reduces the increase of fCO₂ in the surface water caused by intrusion of CO₂-enriched subsurface water by 50–70%. The remaining 30 to 50% are attributed to CO₂ emissions into the atmosphere. Rain ratios up to 60% higher in river-influenced areas off Pakistan and in the Bay of Bengal than in the open Arabian Sea imply that riverine silica inputs can further enhance the impact of the biological pump on the fCO₂ in the surface water by supporting diatom blooms. Consequently, it is assumed that reduced river discharges caused by the damming of major rivers increase CO₂ emission by lowering silica inputs to the Arabian Sea; this mechanism probably operates in other regions of the world ocean also.