The statistics of second order wave forces

A starting point in the statistical analysis of the slow drift motions of moored offshore structures is the determination of the statistical distribution of the second order exciting forces. In the past^2,6 an exponential probability density function has been used, this being the limiting case as the incident seastate becomes infinitely narrow banded. In the present note the second order force distribution is found for a general seastate and a significant deviation from an exponential distribution is found for those seastates which are likely to occur in practice. The statistical theory is based on a heuristic approximation to the second order force, which is shown to be consistent with a frequently used frequency domain approximation which has been suggested by Newman.⁸ Although Roberts² has shown that for very lightly damped systems the response statistics are independent of those of the exciting force, the present results may have a significant effect on the response statistics for higher levels of damping.     

Study of the fauna inhabiting the holdfasts of Laminaria hyperborea (gunn.) fosl. along some environmental and geographical gradients

A survey of the holdfast fauna of Laminaria hyperborea was carried out at thirty-five sites around the UK, mostly along the North Sea and south coasts.Data from different age classes of holdfast from a polluted and unpolluted site indicate that volume of holdfast space is a most important measurement of sample size, a minimum size of sample being one litre and, preferably, three.Gradients of increased heavy metals were defined down the North Sea and west coasts and, by utilising measurements of kelp penetration, water clarity gradients were determined as increasing northwards on the west coast and both north and southwards on the North Sea coast from a point near Tyne and Wear county. Analysis of holdfast fauna showed numerous gradients of total numbers, species and diversity which correlate closely with the heavy metal and water clarity gradients, or with undetermined parameters analogous to latitude and longitude. Where there were increases of heavy metals or decreases of water clarity, various reciprocal relationships between suspension feeders and all other trophic groups were commonly observed. In the North Sea numbers of suspension feeders increased while numbers of all other trophic groups declined. On the west coast a heavy metal increase correlated with a decreasing species richness of all trophic categories except suspension feeders, while with total numbers only suspension feeders showed an increase. On the south coast transect neither gradient existed, and only here did all trophic categories covary, except at one very polluted site where the same reciprocal relationship was again indicated.In terms of species similarity the North Sea showed a greater pool of common species than occurred between sites of other regions and between North Sea sites with other regions, despite the widest range of heavy metal levels and wate clarity that existed there. Between-site similarity appeared to be much more dependent on geographical proximity than on the two measured environmental factors. It is suggested that effects of clarity-reduction can be measured by trophic analysis more successfully than by species presence or absence, and that changes of holdfast fauna along the North Sea coast are due largely to pollution.     

Effect of major ion variations in the marine environment on the specific gravity-conductivity-chlorinity-salinity relationship

Partial equivalent conductances and partial equivalent volumes of the major constituents in seawater were used to evaluate the specific gravity-conductivity-chlorinity-salinity relationships in the marine environment. For example, in the open ocean, the relationships between Cl‰ and both S‰ and specific gravity are valid to within 0.014‰ and 0.014 σ_t, respectively. The relationships between conductivity and S‰ and specific gravity are valid to within 0.006‰ and 0.007 σ_t. In river diluted nearshore areas specific gravity anomalies inferred from Cl‰, can be as great as 0.06 σ_t and 0.04 σ_t when inferred from a conductivity ratio measurement.     

JONSWAP's parameters: Sorting out the inconsistencies

The original prognostic equations for the JONSWAP-spectrum contained inconsistencies. A subsequent paper (Hasselmann et al., 1976, J. phys. Oceanogr.6, 200–208) attempted to regularise the situation. This paper shows that there were still inconsistencies in the prognostic equations giving overestimations of the first moment of the spectrum and consequently the significant wave height. The prognostic equations are reworked systematically and results presented. It is shown that variable σ_a, σ_b and γ must be used to achieve consistent results     

Influence of Wind on Dynamics and Flushing of Shallow Estuaries

Observations of two small estuaries in Cape Cod, U.S.A. indicate large variations in salinity structure that are forced by variations in along-estuary wind stress. During onshore winds, the estuarine circulation is reduced, and the along-estuary salinity gradient increases as freshwater accumulates. During offshore winds, the surface outflow is enhanced, freshwater is flushed out of the estuary, and the along-estuary salinity gradient becomes weak. Constrictions block the wind-induced flushing, resulting in strong salinity fronts across the constrictions. The residence time of one of the estuaries varies by more than a factor of three in response to variations in wind-induced flushing. The other estuary has little variation of flushing associated with winds, due to a constriction at the mouth that inhibits the wind-induced exchange. The strong influence of winds on the flushing of these estuaries is due in part to their shallow depths, which accentuates the influence of wind stress relative to the effects of the horizontal density gradient. In addition, the residence times of the estuaries are comparable to the time scale of wind forcing, allowing large changes in water properties during wind events.     

Transient soil response in a porous seabed with variable permeability

The soil permeability of many natural marine sediments decreases with depth because of consolidation under overburden pressure. This is accompanied by a decrease in porosity and void ratio that also affect the permeability. Conventional theories for wave-induced soil response have assumed a homogeneous porous seabed. This paper presents a new approach for the wave-induced response in a soil matrix, with variable permeability as a function of burial depth. The soil matrix considered is unsaturated and anisotropic, and is subject to a three-dimensional wave system. The pore pressure and effective stresses induced by such a system are obtained from a set of equations incorporating a variable permeability. Verification is available through reduction to the simple case of uniform permeability. The results indicate that the effect of variable soil permeability on pore pressure and vertical effective stress may be significant, especially in a gravelled seabed and for unsaturated sandy soils.     

Observation of clouds and solar radiation over the Pacific Ocean as relation to global climate

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Interference fringes on GLORIA side-scan sonar images from the Bering Sea and their implications

GLORIA side-scan sonographs from the Bering Sea Basin show a complex pattern of interference fringes sub-parallel to the ship's track. Surveys along the same trackline made in 1986 and 1987 show nearly identical patterns. It is concluded from this that the interference patterns are caused by features in the shallow subsurface rather than in the water column. The fringes are interpreted as a thin-layer interference effect that occurs when some of the sound reaching the seafloor passes through it and is reflected off a subsurface layer. The backscattered sound interferes (constructively or desctructively) with the reflected sound. Constructive/destructive interference occurs when the difference in the length of the two soundpaths is a whole/half multiple of GLORIA's 25 cm wavelength. Thus as range from the ship increases, sound moves in and out of phase causing bands of greater and lesser intensity on the GLORIA sonograph. Fluctuations (or wiggles) of the fringes on the GLORIA sonographs relate to changes in layer thickness. In principle, a simple three dimensional image of the subsurface layer may be obtained using GLORIA and bathymetric data from adjacent (parallel) ship's tracks. These patterns have also been identified in images from two other systems; SeaMARC II (12 kHz) long-range sonar, and TOBI (30 kHz) deep-towed sonar. In these, and other cases world-wide, the fringes do not appear with the same persistence as those seen in the Bering Sea.     

LARGE-SCALE CIRCULATION CONDITIONS AFFECTINGTHE TYPHOON FORMATION OVER THENORTHWEST PACIFIC

A contrasting study of the large-scale circulation features responsible for months with many typhoons and months with tew typhoons has revealed that the frequency of typhoon formation over the Northwest Pacific is related to the following conditions:Over the Northwest Pacific, a well-defined ITCZ (Intertropical Convergence Zone) extending eastward to 160°E was displaced to 20°N. At 200 mb, an extensive anomalous anticyclonic circulation prevails over the western and central Pacific. The condition characteristic of a break in the monsoon prevailed in India. The monsoon trough at 500 mb and at the surface over the Indian Peninsula was relatively weak and was accompanied by higher-than-normal rainfall in the northern part of India and lower-than-normal rainfall over the peninsula. In addition, the polar vortex tends to be weak and move to the side of the Northern Hemisphere, opposite to the North Pacific. Finally, abnormally warm water was observed over the Central and Eastern Pacific and abnormally cold