Risk of dike failure due to flow slides

Flow slides may affect the stability of dikes. A flow slide is an instability of a submerged slope caused by liquefaction of loose, (medium) fine sand. Whether a flow slide will occur depends on the properties of the sand, which are a function of its density, and the geometry of the slope, as determined by wave and current induced scour and sedimentation. The influence of sand properties and the geometry parameters on the risk of flow slides are discussed. The application of a flow slide prediction method to an example and a risk analysis is briefly discussed.     

A comparative study of some directional sea models

Current specification of the ocean wave environment for the design of offshore platforms does not adequately describe the directional nature of a real seaway. The strong wave frequency dependent nature of the directional behavior of observed seas is often over-simplified for design. A general formulation encompassing a wide range of directional sea models is presented. Parameter values used in some of the more popular directional sea models are examined. Approximate expressions for the two frequency dependent parameters in a modified Longuet-Higgins cosine wave spreading model are presented. A general procedure which allows an engineer to estimate parameters for alternate wave spreading models is discussed. To illustrate this procedure an empirically based modified cosine spreading model is used as the basis to estimate frequency dependent parameters for circular normal and wrapped Gaussian wave spreading models. A comparison of the contours of the various directional sea models and the prediction of the root-mean-square velocity distribution is presented.     

The status of geological dredging techniques

Scientific sea-floor dredging is currently used in marine geology primarily by the hard-rock community interested in the recovery of basement rock samples from the unsedimented deep ocean floor. The technique has generally been eclipsed by ocean drilling for recovery of sedimentary rocks, because of perceived uncertainties in the location of sampling and in the representativeness of recovered material. This contribution reviews dredging equipment currently in use by marine geological institutions and refers to pinger attachments that allow precise information on the behaviour of the dredge to be telemetered back to the ship. We argue that improvements in ship navigation and transponder navigation at the seafloor, when used in conjunction with surface and/or deeply towed sidescan and swathemapping surveys, now allow for considerably less uncertainty on the location of dredge sampling. Refined sorting criteria for dredge hauls are now also available. Recent comparisons of regional sample recovery by ocean drilling and by dredge sampling indicate that the dredge hauls can usefully supplement the drilling data in the construction of sedimentary and tectonic histories of seafloor areas.     

Morphodynamics of a bar-trough surf zone

A field study was made of the distinguishing morphodynamic processes operating in a surf zone which perennially exhibits accentuated bar-trough topography (the “longshore-bar-trough” and “rhytmic-bar-and-beach” states as described by Wright and Short, 1984). Characteristic features of the morphology include a shallow bar with a steep shoreward face, a deep trough, and a steep beach face. This morphology, which is favored by moderate breaker heights and small tidal ranges, strongly controls the coupled suite of hydrodynamic processes. In contrast to fully dissipative surf zones, the bar-trough surf zone is not at all saturated and oscillations at incident wave frequency remain dominant from the break point to the subaerial beach. The degree of incident wave groupiness does not change appreciably across the surf zone. Infragravity standing waves which, in dissipative surf zones, dominate the inshore energy, remain energetically secondary and occur at higher frequencies in the bar trough surf zone. Analyses of the field data combined with numerical simulations of leaky mode and edge wave nodal—antinodal positions over observed surf-zone profiles, indicate that the frequencies which prevail are favored by the resonant condition of antinodes over the bar and nodes in the trough. Standing waves which would have nodes over the bar are suppressed. Sediment resuspension in the surf zone appears to be largely attributable to the incident waves which are the main source of bed shear stress. In addition, the extra near-bottom eddy viscosity provided by the reformed, non-breaking waves traversing the trough significantly affects the vertical velocity profile of the longshore current. Whereas the bar is highly mobile in terms of onshore—offshore migration rates, the beach face and inner regions of the trough are remarkably stable over time.     

Extension of the Narmada — Son lineament on the continental margin off Saurashtra,Western India as obtained from magnetic measurements

Magnetic total intensity values and bathymetric data collected on the continental margin off Saurashtra were, used to prepare magnetic anomalies and bathymetric contour maps. The magnetic anomalies are considered to have been caused by the Deccan Trap flood basalts which underlie the Tertiary sediments. Interpretation of the magnetic data using two-dimensional modelling method suggests that the magnetic basement is block faulted and deepens in steps from less than 1.0 km in the north to about 8.0 km towards the southern portion of the study area. The WNW-ESE trending faults identified in the present study extend across the Saurashtra continental margin between Porbandar and Veraval and appear to represent a major linear tectonic feature. The relationship of these fault lineaments with the regional tectonic framework have been discussed to indicate that they conform better as the northern boundary faults of the Narmada rift graben on the continental margin off Saurashtra.     

Morphology and tectonics of the Galapagos Triple Junction

We describe the results of GLORIA and SEABEAM surveys, supplemented by other marine geophysical data, of the Galapagos Triple Junction where the Pacific, Cocos and Nazca plates meet. The data allowed detailed topographic and tectonic maps of the area to be produced. We located each spreading axis with a precision of about 1 km. All three plate boundaries change character as the triple junction is approached to take on morphologies typical of slower spreading axes: the fast-spreading East Pacific Rise develops the morphology of a medium-spreading rise, and the medium-spreading Cocos-Nazca Rise takes on the appearance of a slow-spreading ridge. The axis of the East Pacific Rise was found to be completely continuous throughout the survey area, where it runs along the 102°05 W meridian. The Cocos-Nazca axis, however, fails to meet it, leaving a 20-km-wide band of apparently normal East Pacific Rise crust between its tip and the East Pacific Rise axis. As a consequence there must be considerable intra-plate deformation within the Cocos and Nazca plates. A further 40 km of the Cocos-Nazca axis is characterised by oblique faulting that we interpret to be a sign of rifting of pre-existing East Pacific Rise crust. We infer that true sea-floor spreading on the Cocos-Nazca axis does not begin until 60 km east of the East Pacific Rise axis. Other areas of similar oblique faulting occur on the Pacific plate west of the triple junction and along the rough-smooth boundaries of the Galapagos Gore. We present a model involving intermittent rifting, rift propagation, and sea-floor spreading, to explain these observations.     

Wave drift enhancement effects in multi column structures

A theoretical assessment is made of mean wave drift forces on groups of vertical circular cylinders, such as the columns of a floating offshore platform. A complete analytical solution is obtained for two cylinders extending from seabed to free surface, and a long wave approximation is found to provide reliable predictions of the drift force in line with the waves at low frequencies. For moderate separation between the two cylinders, this force is found to tend at low frequencies to a value four times the force on an isolated cylinder.A numerical method is employed to study two surface piercing cylinders truncated below the free surface, and an arrangement of four vertical cylinders characteristic of a floating offshore platform. The mean vertical drift force is found to be reasonably well approximated, over the frequency range of practical interest, by the force on an individual cylinder considered in isolation multiplied by the number of cylinders in the group. Interaction effects, however, have a profound influence on the total horizontal drift force. At low frequencies this force is found to tend to the force on an isolated cylinder multiplied by the squate of the number of cylinders in the group.     

An experimental investigation of plunging breaker boundary layers in the transformation zone

Experimental investigation is made on the boundary layers of the transformation zone (i.e. the region between the last symmetrical wave profile depth and the breaking point) of plunging breakers propagating on a smooth beach with 1/12 uniform slope. Using a laser anemometer, the particle velocities are measured at four verticals along the transformation zone for three different steepnesses of waves within the plunging breaker range. The boundary layer flow in the transformation zone is found mostly of turbulent character and vertical distribution of particle velocities does not seem to conform to the classical law of the wall distribution given for steady-flow boundary layers. The results show that free-stream particle velocities, in the boundary layer of the breaker under the crest phase, increase considerably as the wave progresses towards the breaking point. The boundary layer thickness, defined as the velocity-affected region, remains constant throughout the transformation zone but it decreases with increasing deep-water wave steepness for the particular beach slope tested.     

Distribution, texture and composition of modern phosphate pellets in Peru shelf muds

Textural analysis, including estimates of concentrations of authigenic phosphate pellets, were made for eight sediment cores from the Peru continental margin. Phosphatic pellets separated from these modern organic-rich sediments are black, spherical-ovoidal in shape, and in thin section often display a concentric structure around a nucleus consisting of inorganic mineral grains. Some pellets have a gray-white exterior coating which appears to be secondary diagenetic calcite. Phosphatic pellets account for upwards of 80% of the sediment mass in some cores. Pellets concentrate in specific size classes, generally between 125 and 500 μm in diameter, and occur within a poorly sorted sediment.     

Upwelling in the Black Sea by the results of numerical experiments and satellite data

The paper analyses results of the numerical simulation of upwelling events in the north-western part of the Black Sea, mostly near the South Crimea. The calculations were performed using a numerical model based on primitive hydrodynamics equations. Emphasis is laid on the case when a salinity front simulating the Black Sea rim current is prescribed in the initial conditions. The interaction of the Black Sea rim current's stream with the coastline and bottom topography leads to the development of an upwelling near the Crimea's coast, even in the absence of wind forcing. The paper discusses the structure of the three-dimensional circulation of waters in the shelf area of the NW Black Sea. Numerical modelling results are matched up with the satellite data obtained by the HRPT receiving station. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.