Transformation of Wave Energy Spectrum in Shallow Water

- Combined with irregular wave-maker, the growing process of Wave Energy Spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel on different water depth conditions, and its transformation characteristics and rules can be obtained.     

Experimental Study on Rectangular Floating Breakwaters

This paper proposes ten types of improved floating breakwaters for experiment with regular waves, based on the experience in the development and manufacture of existing floating breakwaters both at home and abroad, and on the results of experimental studies on the hydraulic characteristics of several types of floating breakwaters. The wave heights before and behind the breakwaters are measured, the movements of floating breakwaters are observed and the chain forces of the floating breakwaters are measured. The paper studies and compares the hydraulic characteristics of the improved rectangular floating breakwaters of which the internal and external structures and their installation methods are changed. Finally the optimal type of structure is selected through experiments.     

A 2D Mathematical Model for Sediment Transport by Waves and Tidal Currents

In this study, the combined actions of waves and tidal currents in estuarine and coastal areas are considered and a 2D mathematical model for sediment transport by waves and tidal currents has been established in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates. Non-equilibrium transport equations of suspended load and bed load are used in the model. The concept of background concentration is introduced, and the formula of sediment transport capacity of tidal currents for the Oujiang River estuary is obtained. The Dou Guoren formula is employed for the sediment transport capacity of waves. Sediment transport capacity in the form of mud and the intensity of back silting are calculated by use of Luo Zaosen＇ s formula. The calculated tidal stages are in good agreement with the field data, and the calculated velocities and flow directions of 46 vertical lines for 8 cross sections are also in good agreement with the measured data. On such a basis, simulations of back silting after excavation of the waterway with a sand bar under complicated boundary conditions in the navigation channel induced by suspended load, bed load and mud by waves and tidal currents are discussed.     

High-Order Models of Nonlinear and Dispersive Wave in Water of Varying Depth with Arbitrary Sloping Bottom

High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of va-rying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article.First,the formal derivations toany high order of μ(=h/λ,depth to deep-water wave length ratio)and ε(=α/h,wave amplitude todepth ratio)for velocity potential,particle velocity vector,pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations forsurface elevation η and horizontal velocity vector U at any given level in water are given.Then,the exactexplicit expressions to the fourth order of μ are derived.Finally,the linear solutions of η,U,C(phase ce-lerity)and C_g(group velocity)for a constant water depth are obtained.Compared with the Airy theory,excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth.The present high-ordermodels are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth(from shal-low to deep)and bottom slope(from mild to steep).     

Structural Vibration Mode Re-Analysis of Offshore Structures

-This paper reviews the current methodology for dynamic reanalysis. Rayleigh-Ritz approach and receptance approach are discussed in detail. Based on a general finite element structural analysis program SAPS, an eigenproblem re-analysis prorgram ERP was compiled. With a very small change the program can be implemented readily with any general FEM program. Finally, some numerical examples show that the new algorithm is of high precision and efficiency. In the case of local modification in the offshore platform, the efficiency is raised by 20- 50 times when compared with the re-calculation of the whole model.     

研制海底浅地层剖面仪的某些声学问题

近十年来,探测海底几十米至几百米松散沉积层分层结构的“海底浅地层剖面仪”已逐步发展定型,并广泛用于海底工程施工和海洋地质研究方面。这种浅地层剖面仪主要采用以下几种声源装置：电致伸缩器件、磁致伸缩器件、电磁脉冲声源、电火花放电器以及气枪。 浅层剖面仪实际上是一种以地层为探测目标的主动声纳,本文给出了有关的声纳方程式,它将有助于这类仪器的工程设计和性能预报。 从探层声纳方程式出发,采用电磁脉冲声源研制了浅层剖面仪,获得了穿透地层几十米的较高分辨率的记录。对此,本文也作了简单的介绍。     

Velocity and Sediment Concentration Profiles in Sediment-Laden Flows

A theoretical analysis of velocity profiles in sediment-laden flows is presented by means of Prandtl-Karman mixing length theorem. The study shows that the upward velocity of liquid-phase caused by settling sediment leads to the invalidity of the log-law and Rouse equation. The theoretical analysis takes into account the upward velocity and shows: 1) the mean velocity in sediment-laden flows follows the log-law, but the Karman constant reduces in the main flow region, 2) sediment concentration reduces the mixing length of fluid particles, 3) flow resistance reduces with the presence of sediment concentration, and 4) the sediment concentration profile deviates from the well know Rouse equation. The experimental data agree well with the equations derived on the basis of non-zero wall velocity. It is found that the wall-normal velocity should not be neglected for density gradient flows because it induces more than for pure water flows.     

Computation of Wave, Tide and Wind Current for the South China Sea Under Tropical Cyclones

Based on the third-generation oceanic wave prediction model (WAVEWATCH Ⅲ) ,the third-generation nearshore wave calculation model (SWAN) and the mathematical tide, tidal current and cyclone current model, which have been improved, interconnected and expanded, a coupled model of offshore wave, tide and sea current under tropical cyclone surges in the South China Sea has been established. The coupled model is driven by the tropical cyclone field containing the background wind field. In order to test the hindcasting effect of the mathematical model, a comparison has been made between the calculated results and the observational results of waves of 15 cyclone cases, water levels and current velocities of the of 7 cyclones. The results of verification indicate that the calculated and observed results are basically identical.     

The responses of CO_2 to El Nino and La Nina in different seasons along 22°-18°N line

1 INTRoDUcTIONThe study results from Nov. 1986 to Aug. 1990 in sea area (ll5"E - 165"E, 20"N -l0"S) during TOGA experiments, indicated that there were outstanding responses of differenceof partial pressure of CO, between sea and air (APCO,) and total dissolved concentrationof CO, (TCO,) to El Nino and La Nina in NW region of the Western Tropical Pacific,including the cruise lines from ll4ofy 22"N to l30"E, l8"N and that from l8"N to 8"N,along l30"E. The characteristics of dis…