Suspended-sediment transport in the surf zone: response to breaking waves

A field experiment designed to investigate the influence of wave breaking on suspended-sediment transport was conducted at Duck, NC, from 6 to 9 September 1985. Arrays of optical backscatter sensors, electromagnetic current meters and pressure sensors were deployed at five positions on a shore-normal transect that spanned the surf zone. At each position measurements were made of cross-shore and longshore velocity, sea-surface fluctuations, and suspended sediment at five levels above the bed. Experimental data runs were conducted when incident swell waves ( H_s = 0.5m, T= 10–12s) broke (primarily plunging) within the experimental transect. This paper describes the spatial characteristics of the plunge-to-bore tranformation region and describes (1) the cross-shore variability of sediment resuspension, including the mean concentrations and mean suspended load; (2) the net longshore and cross-shore flux across the surf zone; (3) mean suspended-sediment profiles as a function of wave type, e.g. plunging, spilling and bore, and unbroken at four positions across the surf zone; and (4) discusses the relative contribution of each wave type to the net longshore and cross-shore sediment flux.     

Oxygen isotope ratios of cellulose-derived phenylglucosazone: An improved paleoclimate indicator of environmental water and relative humidity

Oxygen atoms within fossil wood provide high-resolution records of climate change, particularly for the Quaternary. However, current analysis methods of fossil cellulose do not differentiate between different positions of the oxygen atoms. Here, we propose a refinement to tree-cellulose paleoclimatology modeling, using the cellulose-derived compound phenylglucosazone as the isotopic substrate. Stem samples from trees were collected at northern latitudes as low as 24°37′N and as high as 69°00′N. We extracted stem water and cellulose from each stem sample and analyzed them for their ¹⁸O content. In addition, we derived the cellulose to phenylglucosazone, a compound which lacks the oxygen attached to the second carbon of the cellulose-glucose moieties. Oxygen isotope analysis of phenylglucosazone allowed us to calculate the ¹⁸O content of the oxygen attached to the second carbon of the cellulose-glucose moieties. By way of these analyses, we tested two hypotheses: first, that the ¹⁸O content of the oxygen attached to second carbon will more closely reflect the ¹⁸O content of the stem water, and will not resemble the ¹⁸O content of either cellulose or its derivative phenylglucosazone. Second, tree-ring models that incorporate the variable oxygen isotope fractionation shown here and elsewhere are more accurate than those that do not. Our first hypothesis was rejected on the basis that the oxygen isotope ratios of the oxygen attached to the second carbon of the glucose moieties had a noisy isotopic signal with a large standard deviation and gave the poorest correlation with the oxygen isotope ratios of stem water. Related to this isotopic noise, we observed that the correlation between oxygen isotope ratios of phenylglucosazone with both stem water and relative humidity were higher than those observed for cellulose. Our hypothesis about tree-ring models which account for changes in the oxygen isotopic fractionation during cellulose synthesis was consistent only for the ¹⁸O content of phenylglucosazone. We showed that the tree-ring model based on the ¹⁸O content of phenylglucosazone was an improvement over existing models that are based on whole cellulose. Additionally, this approach may be used in other cellulose based archives such as peat deposits and lacustrine sediments.     

An instrumentation system to measure near-bottom conditions on the continental shelf

In recent years significant interest has emerged regarding bottom currents and sediment dispersal over continental shelves and shallow marine waters. Although many papers have been written on sediment dispersal mechanisms, they include relatively few long-term observations of bottom currents and/or sediment transport. Lack of observational data is related to the hostile nature of the environment, and the difficulty associated with placing and retrieving instruments on the floor of the continental shelf during some seasons and environmental conditions.This paper describes an instrumentation system designed for use on the floor of the continental shelf. It can remain submerged for periods of one month continuously recording water speed and direction 1 m from the sea bed, differential pressure, and bed nature by means of half-hourly photographs. Four of these systems are presently in use in arrays across the continental shelf of Washington.