Response to reply by J.P. Le Roux

In the response given by Le Roux [Le Roux, J.P., 2008. A simple method to determine breaker height and depth for different deepwater wave height/length ratios and sea floor slopes — Reply to discussion by M.C. Haller and P.C. Catalan, Coast. Eng. 55, 185–188] to the discussion of Haller and Catalán [Haller, M.C., Catalan, P.A., 2008. Discussion of “A simple method to determine breaker height and depth for different deepwater wave height/length ratios and sea floor slopes”, by J.P. Le Roux [Coastal Engineering 54 (2007) 271–277], Coast. Eng. 55, 181–184], the author presents a defense of the large number of inconsistencies/errors that we pointed out in regards to the earlier work of Le Roux [Le, Roux, J.P., 2007. A simple method to determine breaker height and depth for different wave height/length ratios and sea floor slopes, Coast. Eng. 54, 271–277]. We appreciate the response for the fact that it further clarifies the lines of reasoning used in the previous work. Unfortunately, we are not convinced by the defenses offered and still posit that the original work contains many inconsistencies and downright calculation errors. We try to avoid repetition herein, and instead of rehashing all of the points made in our previous discussion, we will concentrate on a few fundamental problems that undermine the whole premise of the original paper. We feel it is important to make these clear to the readers of Coastal Engineering.     

Pollen evidence for variations in the southern margin of the westerly winds in SW Patagonia over the last 12,600 years

We report pollen and charcoal records from Vega Ñandú ( 51°0′S, 72°45′W), a small mire located near the modern forest-steppe ecotone in Torres del Paine National Park, southern Chile. The record shows an open landscape dominated by low shrubs and herbs between 12,600 and 10,800 cal yr BP, under cold and relatively humid conditions. Nothofagus experienced frequent, large-amplitude oscillations between 10,800 and 6800 cal yr BP, indicating recurrent transitions between shrubland/parkland environments, under warm and highly variable moisture conditions. A sustained increase in Nothofagus started at 6800 cal yr BP, punctuated by step-wise increases at 5100 and 2400 cal yr BP, implying further increases in precipitation. We interpret these results as indicative of variations in the amount of precipitation of westerly origin, with prominent increases at 6800, 5100, and 2400 cal yr BP. These pulses led to peak precipitation regimes during the last two millennia in this part of SW Patagonia. Our data suggest variations in the position and/or strength of the southern margin of the westerlies, most likely linked to variations in the extent and/or persistence of sea ice and sea-surface temperature anomalies in the Southern Ocean. Over the last two centuries the record shows a forest decline and expansion of Rumex acetosella, an exotic species indicative of European disturbance.     

Vegetation and climate near Lago Llanquihue in the Chilean Lake District between 20200 and 9500 14C yr BP

Radiocarbon-dated pollen records of two adjacent sediment cores from Canal de la Puntilla (40°57′09″S, 72°54′18″W) in the Chilean Lake District reveal that a sparsely vegetated landscape prevailed during the portion of the Last Glacial Maximum between 20200 and about 14800 ¹⁴C yr BP. Dominating the vegetation was Nothofagus, Gramineae and Compositae, along with taxa commonly found today above the Andean treeline (Perezia-type, Valeriana) and in Magellanic Moorlands (Donatia, Astelia). Nothofagus expanded between 20200 and 15800 ¹⁴C yr BP, interrupted by a reversal at 19200 ¹⁴C yr BP and followed by a prominent increase in Gramineae pollen between 15800 and about 14800 ¹⁴C yr BP. A major increase in Nothofagus started at about 14800 ¹⁴C yr BP, followed by an abrupt expansion of thermophilous Valdivian/North Patagonian Rain Forest taxa (Myrtaceae, Lomatia/Gevuina, Hydrangea, etc.) at about 14000 ¹⁴C yr BP. An opening of the rain forest and an expansion of Podocarpus nubigena, Misodendrum, and Maytenus disticha-type subsequently occurred between 11000 and 10000 ¹⁴C yr BP. These results suggest that mean annual temperature was 6–7°C colder than at present, with twice the modern annual precipitation between 20200 and 14000 ¹⁴C yr BP, implying a northward shift and intensification of the westerlies storm-tracks. Slight climate warming occurred between 20200 and 15800 ¹⁴C yr BP, featuring cooling reversals at 19200 ¹⁴C yr BP, and later at 15800 ¹⁴C yr BP. The warming of the last termination started at about 14800 ¹⁴C yr BP, and reached a total temperature rise of ≥5°C by 12400 ¹⁴C yr BP, followed by cooling between 11000 and 10000 ¹⁴C yr BP. © 1997 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Combined use of isotopic and hydrometric data to conceptualize ecohydrological processes in a high‐elevation tropical ecosystem

Few high‐elevation tropical catchments worldwide are gauged, and even fewer are studied using combined hydrometric and isotopic data. Consequently, we lack information needed to understand processes governing rainfall–runoff dynamics and to predict their influence on downstream ecosystem functioning. To address this need, we present a combination of hydrometric and water stable isotopic observations in the wet Andean páramo ecosystem of the Zhurucay Ecohydrological Observatory (7.53 km²). The catchment is located in the Andes of south Ecuador between 3400 and 3900 m a.s.l. Water samples for stable isotopic analysis were collected during 2 years (May 2011–May 2013), while rainfall and runoff measurements were continuously recorded since late 2010. The isotopic data reveal that andosol soils predominantly situated on hillslopes drain laterally to histosols (Andean páramo wetlands) mainly located at the valley bottom. Histosols, in turn, feed water to creeks and small rivers throughout the year, establishing hydrologic connectivity between wetlands and the drainage network. Runoff is primarily composed of pre‐event water stored in the histosols, which is replenished by rainfall that infiltrates through the andosols. Contributions from the mineral horizon and the top of the fractured bedrock are small and only seem to influence discharge in small catchments during low flow generation (non‐exceedance flows < Q₃₅). Variations in source contributions are controlled by antecedent soil moisture, rainfall intensity, and duration of rainy periods. Saturated hydraulic conductivity of the soils, higher than the year‐round low precipitation intensity, indicates that Hortonian overland flow rarely occurs during high‐intensity precipitation events. Deep groundwater contributions to discharge seem to be minimal. These results suggest that, in this high‐elevation tropical ecosystem, (1) subsurface flow is a dominant hydrological process and (2) (histosols) wetlands are the major source of stream runoff. Our study highlights that detailed isotopic characterization during short time periods provides valuable information about ecohydrological processes in regions where very few basins are gauged. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A re-examination of the mechanism and human impact of catastrophic mass flows originating on Nevado Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca, Peru in 1962 and 1970

The 1962 and 1970 Huascarán mass movements, originated as rock/ice falls from the mountain's North Peak, transformed into higher-volume high-velocity mud-rich debris flows by incorporation of snow from the surface of a glacier below Huascarán and the substantial entrainment of morainic and colluvial material from slopes below the glacier terminus. Water for fluidization of the entrained material originated in the melting of incorporated snow and the liberation of soil moisture contained within the entrained materials. Eyewitness reports indicate very high mean velocities for the events; 17–35 m/s (1962) and 50–85 m/s (1970). The runout distances and velocity profiles of both events were simulated using DAN/W. Both mass movements continued downstream in the Rio Santa as debris floods (aluviones) that in 1970 reached the Pacific at a distance of 180 km. In strong contrast to publications in the geosciences literature, 1961 Peru Census data indicates that the death toll of the 1970 event is ca. 6000 and that total life loss in the two events did not exceed 7000 people.     

Atmospheric modes influence on Iberian Poleward Current variability

The inter-annual variability of the Iberian Poleward Current (IPC) along the northwestern coast of the Iberian Peninsula (IP) (40-43°N) and its intrusion in the Cantabrian Sea (Navidad, 6-8°W) were analyzed in terms of the atmospheric forcing. The January Sea Surface Temperature (J SST) was obtained from the advanced very high resolution radiometer (AVHRR) NOAA satellite from 1985 to 2006. It is a well documented fact that the existence of a tongue of water warmer than the surrounding ones (IPC) which circulates along the western Iberian shelf edge, turn eastward around Cape Finisterre, and enters in the Cantabrian Sea generating Navidad at the beginning of every winter. However, in the present study it has been highlighted that there are several years (1986, 1987, 1992, 1997, 1999, 2004 and 2005) during which water from coast to the adjacent shelf is much colder than the oceanic one remarking a weak or inexistent IPC during these Januaries. In addition, the dependence of SST on the most representative regional patterns with some influence upon the eastern North Atlantic region was analyzed by means of correlations between November-December atmospheric modes and J SST. The considered modes were: North Atlantic Oscillation pattern (NAO), Eastern Atlantic pattern (EA), Eastern Atlantic Western Russia pattern (EA/WR), Polar/Eurasia pattern (POL) and Scandinavia pattern (SCA). This analysis reveals that two atmospheric patterns (N-D NAO and N-D EA/WR) are responsible of the main variability of the J SST of the western and northern IP. J SST is negatively correlated with N-D NAO and positively correlated with N-D EA/WR. Multivariate analysis involving both modes provides correlation coefficients on the order of 0.7 on both coasts (western and northern). The influence of both modes on J SST was observed to be on the same order of magnitude but with different sign. These correlations were physically interpreted by means of an analysis of extreme events and Sea Level Pressure (SLP) composite analysis.     

Comparative analysis of upwelling influence between the western and northern coast of the Iberian Peninsula

Upwelling conditions have been simultaneously analyzed along the western and northern coast of the Iberian Peninsula in terms of wind forcing and water temperature response. The wind forcing analysis showed that the season under more upwelling favorable conditions corresponds to spring-summer (April-September) along the western coast and only to summer (June-August) along the northern one. Taking into account the upwelling period common to both coasts (June-August), it was observed that the occurrence of upwelling events simultaneously along both coasts is the most probable situation (∼46%) followed by upwelling unfavorable conditions also along both coasts (∼26%). The analysis of sea surface temperature data also showed the existence of an upwelling season in spring-summer along both coasts, although upwelling events are more frequent and intense along the western coast than along the northern one. Chlorophyll concentrations showed a high seasonal variability at the western coast with the highest concentrations values in spring-summer months while at the northern coast the maximum values were observed in spring and autumn.     

Field Survey of the 27 February 2010 Chile Tsunami

On 27 February 2010, a magnitude M _w?=?8.8 earthquake occurred off the coast of Chile??s Maule region causing substantial damage and loss of life. Ancestral tsunami knowledge from the 1960 event combined with education and evacuation exercises prompted most coastal residents to spontaneously evacuate after the earthquake. Many of the tsunami victims were tourists in coastal campgrounds. The international tsunami survey team (ITST) was deployed within days of the event and surveyed 800?km of coastline from Quintero to Mehuín and the Pacific Islands of Santa María, Mocha, Juan Fernández Archipelago, and Rapa Nui (Easter). The collected survey data include more than 400 tsunami flow depth, runup and coastal uplift measurements. The tsunami peaked with a localized runup of 29?m on a coastal bluff at Constitución. The observed runup distributions exhibit significant variations on local and regional scales. Observations from the 2010 and 1960 Chile tsunamis are compared.