Remote sensing of breaking wave phase speeds with application to non-linear depth inversions

A number of existing models for surface wave phase speeds (linear and non-linear, breaking and non-breaking waves) are reviewed and tested against phase speed data from a large-scale laboratory experiment. The results of these tests are utilized in the context of assessing the potential improvement gained by incorporating wave non-linearity in phase speed based depth inversions. The analysis is focused on the surf zone, where depth inversion accuracies are known to degrade significantly. The collected data includes very high-resolution remote sensing video and surface elevation records from fixed, in-situ wave gages. Wave phase speeds are extracted from the remote sensing data using a feature tracking technique, and local wave amplitudes are determined from the wave gage records and used for comparisons to non-linear phase speed models and for non-linear depth inversions. A series of five different regular wave conditions with a range of non-linearity and dispersion characteristics are analyzed and results show that a composite dispersion relation, which includes both non-linearity and dispersion effects, best matches the observed phase speeds across the domain and hence, improves surf zone depth estimation via depth inversions. Incorporating non-linearity into the phase speed model reduces errors to O(10%), which is a level previously found for depth inversions with small amplitude waves in intermediate water depths using linear dispersion. Considering the controlled conditions and extensive ground truth, this appears to be a practical limit for phase speed-based depth inversions. Finally, a phase speed sensitivity analysis is performed that indicates that typical nearshore sand bars should be resolvable using phase speed depth inversions. However, increasing wave steepness degrades the sensitivity of this inversion method.     

Breeding cycle of the red squat lobster Pleuroncodes monodon H. Milne Edwards, 1837 (Decapoda,Muninidae) from deepwater Pacific of Costa Rica

Reproduction and larval development of the red squat lobster Pleuroncodes monodon is strongly linked to temperature changes provoked by upwelling along the Chilean coast. Here, we propose the hypothesis that both the breeding cycle and the spatial distribution of egg‐bearing females of P. monodon in Costa Rica are related to decreasing water temperatures during seasonal coastal upwelling. To describe the breeding cycle, squat lobsters were collected between February 2007 and January 2008 from the Central Pacific coast of Costa Rica. The presence of egg‐bearing females in other areas of the Costa Rican coast was studied from samples collected during two latitudinal research cruises (August 2008: rainy season; May 2009: dry season). Our results revealed that P. monodon has a marked seasonal breeding period (from November to March), which is associated with decreasing water surface temperatures registered during coastal upwelling events. All females with embryos close to hatching were found in areas surrounding the Gulf of Nicoya, when upwelling events have been reported. The near absence of egg‐bearing females in zones where upwelling does not occur suggests the existence of a strong correlation between upwelling events and the breeding cycle of P. monodon. Our information should be considered when developing management measures for the sustainable use of this potential fishery resource in the Pacific coast of Central America.     

Shallow-level differentiation of phonolitic lavas from Sumaco Volcano,Ecuador

Sumaco Volcano is located in the rear-arc of Ecuador and produces phonolitic alkaline lavas hosting a unique assemblage of minerals including haüyne and titanaugite. The most mafic lavas are picrobasalts that contain titanaugite as the primary mineral phase; the most evolved tephri-phonolite lavas contain titanaugite?+?anorthoclase?+?haüyne. Titanaugite forms at middle to deep crustal pressures, whereas haüyne is only stable at shallow depths in highly oxidizing conditions. The Sumaco mineral assemblages and geochemistry indicate that fractionation of the titanaugite- and haüyne-bearing assemblage took place over a range of pressures from 5 to 25 kbar (14–75 km), with at least 50% of differentiation taking place at shallow crustal levels. Minerals record multiple cycles of recharge and mixing accompanied by an increase in fO₂ and sulfur concentration during differentiation. Mantle-like Sr and Nd isotope values (⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr = 0.70406–0.70423; ¹⁴³Nd/¹⁴⁴Nd = 0.512880–0.512913) indicate minimal crustal assimilation. Sumaco’s unique geochemical composition is not observed in the nearby volcanoes Antisana, Pan de Azucar or El Reventador suggesting that its unique magma source is confined to this volcano. The high temperature and sulfate-saturated conditions at shallow depths suggest that magma ascends rapidly to a shallow reservoir where the majority of crystallization and recharge takes place prior to eruption. An important conclusion of this research is that Sumaco does not represent typical rear-arc subduction processes, and caution should be used when using Sumaco as an end-member to evaluate across-arc processes in the Northern Volcanic Zone.