Quantification of changes in current intensities induced by wave overtopping around low-crested structures

The phenomenon of overtopping is traditionally studied for well-emerged harbour structures and often focuses on safety and stability. In this paper laboratory tests are presented and analysed to sharpen the hypothesis that overtopping is capable of changing the horizontal circulation pattern around low-crested structures. A unique data set from laboratory experiments was acquired in the wave basin at Delft University of Technology. The experiments were performed using an emerged impermeable low-crested structure (three freeboards and three different wave conditions for each freeboard) and yielded nine different combinations of set-up and overtopping driving forces. Using this information it was possible to quantify the changes in cross-shore and longshore velocity induced by the overtopping and the set-up changes under the different freeboard and wave conditions described. It is found that overtopping enhances the outgoing flows (longshore velocities parallel to the structure) away from the lee side of the structure and dampens the water level gradient driven flow towards the structure.     

Uncertainty in the application of the Parabolic Bay Shape Equation: Part 1

This paper aims to quantify the uncertainty in the application of the Parabolic Bay Shape Equation (PBSE) for a bay in static equilibrium. By means of expert elicitation, a database was generated consisting of the position of the control points that determine the Static Equilibrium Planform (SEP). The elicitation consisted of two parts. In Part 1, 22 expert volunteers were asked to place the three control points that determine the SEP on a vertical aerial photograph of Taquaras–Taquarinhas Bay, a morphologically stable bay in the south of Brazil, approximately 1800 m in width and with an indentation of 750 m. The distribution of the location of the SEP along four evenly spaced (200 m) profiles in the southern part of the bay was determined. The overall bias of the location of the SEP calculated over the four profiles was in the order of 41 m (landward) and the average standard deviation was 116 m. These parameters increased when moving alongshore toward the curved section of the bay. This means that the uncertainty in the application of the PBSE is dependent on the particular point of interest along the bay. In Part 2 of the elicitation, 30 volunteers participated. This time the consequence of the placement of the control points (the corresponding SEP) was visible. Comparing the results from Parts 1 and 2, it was observed that when volunteers were directly confronted with the result of the placement of the control points (a plotted SEP) a much smaller variation in the position of the SEP occurred. This implies that when feedback on the result is provided the PBSE is a more robust method.     

Spatial and temporal distribution of floating kelp in the channels and fjords of southern Chile

Numerous studies suggest that floating macroalgae contribute to population connectivity of the algae themselves as well as of associated organisms. In order to evaluate the importance of floating macroalgae for population connectivity in southern Chile we analysed their spatial and temporal distributions. We estimated the abundance of floating kelp in the Interior Sea of Chiloé and the Los Chonos Archipelago via ship surveys conducted during austral spring (November) and winter (July) of the years 2002–2005. Highest densities of floating kelp (Macrocystis pyrifera and Durvillaea antarctica) were found during spring. Generally, the density of floating kelp was relatively low in areas with high supply of freshwater, and highest abundances were found in large channels opening to the open ocean. We suggest that this pattern is caused by the scarcity of natural kelp beds combined with rapid degradation of floating kelp in the interior fjords and by seaward surface outflow. The maximum densities of floating kelps were found in an area known to be an extensive convergence zone (i.e. estuarine front), which appears to act as a retention zone. In accordance with this distribution pattern, we propose that connectivity between local populations via floating kelp is higher in the outer channels with oceanic influence than in the inner fjords with high freshwater influx.     

Gravity Modeling of the Au–U Mineralized Crust at the North-Central Cameroon Illustrating Crustal Permeability

Natural Resources Research - The north-central Cameroon is located at the northern edge of Archean Congo–Sao Francisco craton and at the east of the West African craton. This area includes...     

Vertical structure variability in a seasonal simulation of a medium-resolution regional model of the Eastern South Pacific

A seasonal simulation from a medium-resolution ocean general circulation mode (OGCM) is used to investigate the vertical structure variability of the Southeast Pacific (SEP). The focus is on the extra-tropical Rossby wave (ETRW) variability and associated forcing mechanism. Some aspects of the model mean state are validated from available observations, which justifies a vertical mode decomposition of the model variability. The analysis of the baroclinic mode contributions to sea level indicates that the gravest mode is dominant over most of the domain at all frequencies. Annual variability is on average twice as large as the semi-annual variability which is confined near the coast for all the modes. The first baroclinic mode contribution to the annual cycle exhibits a clear westward propagation north of the critical latitude. The higher-order modes only contribute near the coast where they are associated with vertically propagating energy. The residual variability, which is the energy at all timescales other than annual and semi-annual periods peaks offshore between 20°S and 30°S for all baroclinic modes. The third baroclinic mode also exhibits a relative maximum variability off the coast of Peru south of the critical latitude of the annual cycle (13°S), where the Peru–Chile Undercurrent is the most intense. Sensitivity experiments to the atmospheric and boundary forcing suggest that the residual variability results from the non-linear interaction between annual Rossby waves and the mean flow, while the annual ETRWs in the model result from the summed-contribution from both the local wind stress and remote equatorial forcing. Overall the study extends the classical analysis of sea level variability in the SEP based on linear theory, and suggests that the peculiarities of the baroclinic modes need to be taken into account for interpreting the sea level variability and understanding its connection with the equatorial variability.     

Pearl oysters Pinctada margaritifera grazing on natural plankton in Ahe atoll lagoon (Tuamotu archipelago, French Polynesia)

In atoll lagoons of French Polynesia, growth and reproduction of pearl oysters are mainly driven by plankton concentration. However, the actual diet of black-lip pearl oysters Pinctada margaritifera in these lagoons is poorly known. To fill this gap, we used the flow through chamber method to measure clearance rates of P. margaritifera in Ahe atoll lagoon (Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia). We found: (i) that pearl oysters cleared plankton at a rate that was positively related to plankton biovolume, (ii) that nanoflagellates were the main source of carbon for the pearl oysters, and (iii) that the quantity and origin of carbon filtrated by pearl oysters was highly dependent on the concentration and composition of plankton. These results provide essential elements for the comprehension of growth and reproduction variability of pearl oysters in atoll lagoons of French Polynesia.     

Lava balloons—peculiar products of basaltic submarine eruptions

Between December 1998 and April 2001, a submarine basaltic eruption occurred west of Terceira Island, Azores (Portugal) in water depths between 300 and 1,000?m. Physical evidence for the eruption was provided by the periodic occurrence of hot lava “balloons” floating on the sea surface. The balloons consisted of a large gas-filled cavity surrounded by a thin shell (a few centimetres thick). The shells of the collected balloons are composed of two layers, termed the outer layer and the inner layer, defined by different bubble number density, bubble sizes and crystal content. The inner layer is further divided into three sublayers defined by more subtle differences in vesicularity. The outer layer is glassy, golden-coloured and highly porous. It shows signs of fluidal deformation and late-stage extension cracks. Interstitial glass contains 0.29?wt% H₂O and CO₂ is below detection. Melt inclusions contain up to 1.18?wt% H₂O and 1,500?ppm CO₂ (from different inclusions). Cooling rates of the outermost glass of the outer layer are found to be as high as 1,259?K/s. During ascent of low viscosity magma to the ocean floor, volatiles, dominated by CO₂, exsolved from the magma (melt + crystals). The buoyancy of the vapour phase that accumulated below a thin crust on lava ponded at the vent caused bulging and ultimately cracking of the crust. This allowed large bubbles (central cavity) surrounded by a film of vesicular magma (balloon shell) to leak into the water column. On contact with the seawater, the outermost part of the outer layer of the shell hyperquenched. If an entirely closed shell was produced during detachment, the trapped gas inside allowed buoyant rise. Only balloons with the right balance of physical properties (e.g. size and bulk density) rose all the way to the sea surface.     

Rill development and soil erosion: a laboratory study of slope and rainfall intensity

A total of 15 rainfall simulation experiments were conducted in a 1 m by 2 m box varying slope (10, 20, 30%) and rainfall intensity (60, 90, 120 mm h^?1). The experiments were performed to study how rill networks initiate and evolve over time under controlled conditions with regard to the treatment variables considered, and to allow for input in a computer simulation model. Runoff and sediment yield samples were collected. Digital elevation models were calculated by means of photogrammetry for several time steps of most experiments. The soil used in the experiments was a basal till derived Cambisol typical for the Swiss Plateau. While significant differences were found for sediment yield, runoff did not vary significantly with treatment combinations. Increasing rainfall intensity had a larger effect on sediment yield than increasing slope. Rill density and energy expenditure decreased with time, suggesting that energy expenditure was a useful parameter to describe the emergence of rill network at the laboratory scale. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Large-scale bedforms along a tideless outer shelf setting in the western Mediterranean

High-resolution multibeam swath-bathymetry and sediment samples were collected across the outer shelf region of the Columbretes Islands (southern Ebro continental shelf, western Mediterranean Sea). Bathymetric data from the submerged part of the Columbretes volcanic system revealed the presence of three main relict sand bodies along the outer shelf, at 80–116 m depth range, above which asymmetric and slightly asymmetric large and very large 2D and 3D subaqueous dunes were observed. These bed features were recognized, mapped and quantified with the aim of evaluating their potential formation mechanisms in relation to the local hydrodynamic and morphologic settings of the area. Dunes range from 150 to 760 m in wavelength and from tens of centimeters to 3 m in height, and are among the longest ever recognized in an outer shelf region. These bedforms are mostly composed of medium-sized sandy sediments, presumably coming from the degraded relict sand bodies on top of which they have developed, mixed with fine fractions from the recent draping holocenic sediments. The orientation of the dunes is SSW, progressively turning W towards the southernmost sector of the area, following the trend of the shelf-edge. Contemporary hydrodynamic measurements at the Ebro continental shelf-edge show that recorded currents are insufficient to form the observed bedforms and that stronger currents are required for sediment mobilization and dune formation. Based on their morphology and orientation, it is proposed that these bedforms are produced by the action of the southward-flowing Liguro-Provençal-Catalan (LPC) geostrophic current. The LPC probably reaches high near-bottom currents during energetic hydrodynamic events through interactions with the seafloor morphology of the study area. Subaqueous dunes are expected to be basically inactive features with respect to present-day processes, although they can be reactivated during high-energy events. The small Δh/λ ratio measured in the dune fields of the Columbretes shelf revealed that the dune heights fall below the values predicted by the Flemming (1988) global equation, as observed in other outer shelf settings also dominated by unidirectional flows. This may suggest a different morphodynamic character of large dunes formed on outer shelves in a micro-tidal regime.     

Comparison between the indirect approach and kriging with samples of different support for estimation using samples of different length

In this paper we compare two estimation methods to deal with samples of different support: (1) the indirect approach using accumulation and (2) kriging with samples of different support. These two methods were tested in a simple example. The estimates of the two methods were compared against a benchmark scenario. The benchmark consisted of kriging using a complete set of samples on the same support. The effects of the nugget effect, variogram range and type on the weight of long samples, the estimate, and the error variance were assessed. Kriging with samples of different support led to lower error variance and to estimates closer to the estimates of the benchmark scenario. Furthermore, in the case of spatially continuous attributes (low nugget effect), the indirect approach assigns greater weight to long samples than kriging with samples of different support. A cross validation study comparing the two methods with a database from a bauxite deposit was performed. The results of the cross validation study showed that kriging with samples of different support resulted in more precise estimates.