Parameterization of wave runup is of paramount importance for an assessment of coastal hazards. Parametric models employ wave (e.g., Hs and Lp) and beach (i.e., β) parameters to estimate extreme runup (e.g., R2%). Thus, recent studies have been devoted to improving such parameterizations by including additional information regarding wave forcing or beach morphology features. However, the effects of intra-wave dynamics, related to the random nature of the wave transformation process, on runup statistics have not been incorporated. This work employs a phase- and depth- resolving model, based on the Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations, to investigate different sources of variability associated with runup on planar beaches. The numerical model is validated with laboratory runup data. Subsequently, the role of both aleatory uncertainty and other known sources of runup variability (i.e., frequency spreading and bed roughness) is investigated. Model results show that aleatory uncertainty can be more important than the contributions from other sources of variability such as the bed roughness and frequency spreading. Ensemble results are employed to develop a new parametric model which uses the Hunt (J Waterw Port Coastal Ocean Eng 85:123–152, 1959) scaling parameter \(\beta \left (H_{s}L_{p}\right )^{1/2}\).
Ocean Dynamics - The analysis of a 28-year-long (1989–2016) series of monthly measurements of chlorophyll concentrations and primary production rates at a shelf station off A Coruña (NW... 相似文献
Water Resources - The average concentrations of elements Fe, Mn, Zn, Pb, Cu, Cr, V, Co, Cd, Ni, As, and Mo in the subcolloidal fraction of bottom sediments were determined in the northern and... 相似文献
The brown sea cucumber Isostichopus fuscus (Ludwig, 1875) has been subjected to strong fishing pressure and is currently considered an endangered species by the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Spatial and temporal variations in density were analysed and population parameters of I. fuscus were estimated in three localities of the Southern Mexican Pacific. Density was estimated using circular transects covering a 300 m2 area in each locality. Body length and weight were also measured. The mean density was 0.018 ± 0.013 individuals·m?2, and was statistically significantly lower during summer. The mean length and weight were 22.4 ± 3.8 cm and 396 ± 130 g, respectively, and statistically significant differences were found among localities. The weight–length relationship was W = 0.28·L1.32 and the mean relative condition index (Kn) = 1.04 ± 0.31. The von Bertalanffy growth equation was Lt = 38.7·(1–exp(?0.4·t)). The lowest values of length, weight and age were found at Dos Hermanas, suggesting that this locality could be favorable for the settlement of larvae and recruitment and growth of juveniles. The present study is the second to estimate densities of I. fuscus and the first one to publish data on size structure and growth for the population at Bahias de Huatulco. The densities were so low in the three sampled localities that none of them would be able to support a fishery, even under a sustainable management scheme. The information collected in the present study could be helpful for management programs of the Huatulco National Park, as all the data used for these currently come mainly from the populations of I. fuscus in the Gulf of California. 相似文献
Manta rays inhabit tropical, subtropical and temperate waters. Aggregation sites of manta rays have been recognized worldwide, but the reasons for this behavior are still poorly understood. This study describes environmental factors influencing aggregation sites of the giant manta ray (Manta birostris) off the northeastern coast of the Yucatan Peninsula. Observations of manta rays were obtained from scientific surveys conducted during 2006–2011. Environmental data were obtained from satellite imagery. The maximum entropy (Maxent) method for habitat modeling was used to determine the effects of environmental conditions on the species and predict suitable habitat for manta rays in this region. Primary productivity and distance to the coast were the most influential variables, suggesting that aggregation occurs in highly productive coastal waters. The distribution of manta rays predicted by the Maxent model showed that the most suitable habitat within the study area is located off the northeastern coast of the Yucatán Peninsula, more precisely, northeast of Isla Holbox and northwest of Isla Contoy. Seasonal patterns of distribution suggest that the most suitable conditions are present from July through September. 相似文献
This study describes a new methodology for monitoring landslide displacements using a set of linear elements included in the terrain. These linear elements are digitized using the products obtained from several photogrammetric flights implemented by means of unmanned aircraft systems in several dates. The control of the displacements between dates is carried out using some new metrics and methods based on lines. The results of the control of the lines are used to analyse the general and particular behaviour of the landslide. Using this type of elements allows us to study some singular behaviour of linear elements included in the landslides (e.g. an affected road can react as a block). The methodology has been tested with success using a real case of an active slope with several landslides which was studied on three separate dates. The results have demonstrated the viability of using this methodology for studying the evolution of the landslides and their consequences regarding certain elements included in the terrain. 相似文献
International Journal of Earth Sciences - The relief of the Betic Cordillera was formed since the late Serravallian inducing the development of intramontane basins. The Alhabia basin, situated in... 相似文献
Eutrophication is considered the most important water quality problem in freshwaters and coastal waters worldwide promoting frequent occurrence of blooms of potentially toxic cyanobacteria. Removal of cyanobacteria from the water column using a combination of coagulant and ballast is a promising technique for mitigation and an alternative to the use of algaecides. In laboratory, we tested experimentally the efficiency of two coagulants, polyaluminium chloride (PAC) and chitosan (made of shrimp shells), alone and combined with two ballasts: red soil (RS) and the own lagoon sediment, to remove natural populations of cyanobacteria, from an urban brackish coastal lagoon. PAC was a very effective coagulant when applied at low doses (≤8 mg Al L?1) and settled the cyanobacteria, while at high doses (≥16 mg Al L?1) large flocks aggregated in the top of test tubes. In contrast, chitosan was not able to form flocks, even in high doses (>16 mg L?1) and did not efficiently settle down cyanobacteria when combined with ballast. The RS itself removed 33–47 % of the cyanobacteria. This removal was strongly enhanced when combined with PAC in a dose-dependent matter; 8 mg Al L?1 was considered the best dose to be applied. The lagoon sediment alone did not promote any settling of cyanobacteria but removal was high when combined with PAC. Combined coagulant and ballast seems a very efficient, cheap, fast and safe curative measure to lessen the harmful cyanobacteria bloom nuisance in periods when particularly needed, such as around the 2016 Olympics in Jacarepaguá Lagoon. 相似文献