A model for the response of wave directions in slowly turning wind fields

On the basis of the wave energy balance equation, the response model of mean directions of locally wind-generated waves in slowly turning wind fields has been derived. The results show that in a homogeneous field, the time scale of the response is not only related to the rate of wave growth, but also to the directional energy distribution and the angle between the wind direction and the mean wave direction. Furthermore, the law of change in the mean wave direction has been derived. The numerical computations show that the response of wave directions to slowly turning wind directions can be treated as the superposition of the responses of wave directions to a series of sudden small-angle changes of wind directions and the turning rate of the mean wave direction depends on the turning rate and the total turning angles of the wind direction. The response of wave directions is in agreement with the response for a sudden change of wind directions if the change in wind directions is very fast. Based on the no     

Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

南黄海灾害性地质研究

本文研完了南黄海10种灾害地质因素的性质、危害性及分布,对其进行了分类,在此基础上对本区之灾害地质进行了区划和评价。     

Studies on the distribution and antibacterial properties of Streptomyces in the intertidal zone of Southern Fujian

The oceans have rich resources of microbes. In recent years, searching for antibiotic of new structure and special biological activity from marine microbes has received great attention. This paper reports the results of the studies on the distribution and the antibacterial properties of Streptomyces in the intertidal zone of Southern Fujian. These studies have important significance to further investigate     

棉兰老涡旋的数值模拟

用一个水平分辨率比较高的非线性正压模式,对热带西太平洋海域里的海流进行了数值模拟。计算海流与观测结果颇相一致。结果表明:赤道以北、棉兰老岛以东附近海域中,棉兰老冷涡在一年的大部分时间里都得到发展,但是其范围、强度和中心位置在各个月份并不相同,显示出很强的季节变化;在哈马黑拉岛东北海域,6月份突然出现了一个反气旋式的涡旋;这个涡旋8月份发展得最强,一直持续到10月份,在11月份就消亡了。     

Application of Monte-Carlo statistical experiments in design of ocean engineering——Estimating the parameters, models and probabilities

Recently, some results have been acquired with the Monte- Carlo statistical experiments in the design of ocean en gineering. The results show that Monte-Carlo statistical experiments can be widely used in estimating the parameters of wave statistical distributions, checking the probability model of the long- term wave extreme value distribution under a typhoon condition and calculating the failure probability of the ocean platforms.     

海上不同高度风速换算关系的研究

本文用海上石油平台上观测的风梯度资料,计算了在不同风况下海面摩擦速度和粗糙高度。结果表明,海面摩擦速度u_*与海上10m高度处风速u_(10)的关系为u_*=0.055u_(10)-0.058。在4—5级风时,海面平均摩擦速度为50cm/s,粗糙度为0.022m,它相当于陆上的平均粗糙高度。在风速为2—3级时,二者与海上通常采用的数据接近。文中最后给出了上述两种风况下海上不同高度的换算系数。     

On the long-term joint distribution of characteristic wave height and period and its application

By analysing the scatter diagrams of characteristic the wave height H and the period T on the basis of instrumental data from various ocean wave stations, we found that the conditional expectation and standard deviation of wave period for a given wave height can be better predicted by using the equations of normal linear regression rather than by those based on the log- normal law. The latter was implied in Ochi' s bivariate log-normal model(Ochi. 1978) for the long-term joint distribution of H and T. With the expectation and standard deviation predicted by the normal linear regression equations and applying proper types of distribution, we have obtained the conditional distribution of T for given H. Then combining this conditional P(T / H) with long-term marginal distribution of the wave height P(H) we establish a new parameterized model for the long-term joint distribution P(H,T). As an example of the application of the new model we give a method for estimating wave period associated with an extreme w     

A study on the exchange additivity of zinc in solid mixtures in seawater——Ⅱ.Stepwise exchange in δ-MnO2/montmorrillonite mixture

In this study the zinc exchange process and the reason for the non-additive exchange of δ-MnO2/montmorrillonite have been investigated. The results suggest that with pH increasing from 2 to 8, the stepwise exchange of zinc occurs on δ-MnO. and montmorrillonite in their mixture.At low pH zinc ions are bound on δ-MnO2, while at high pH, the exchange on montmorrillonite dominates the surface interaction in the mixture. The study demonstrates that the stepwise exchange and the heterogeneity of the binding sites on δ-MnO2 surface are the reason for the non-additive exchange. It is also shown that when δ-MnO2 amounts to 5 %, zinc exchange on sea sediments is controlled by 8-MnO2.