Coarse clastic barrier beaches: A discussion of the distinctive dynamic and morphosedimentary characteristics

Coarse clastic barriers are common on mid- and high-latitude coasts. They possess a morphosedimentary and dynamic distinctiveness which sets them apart from sandy fineclastic barrier forms. The reflective nature of the seaward barrier favors the development of zero mode, sub-harmonic edge waves particularly during long period swells (10–20 s), manifest in the formation of high level cusps. In some circumstances the pattern of recent overwashing of the barrier is related to cusps. Lack of distinct tidal passes, due partly to the high seepage potential of coarse barriers, means that very little sediment is transported seaward. Thus the barriers roll steadily onshore, and sections show a variety of washover facies, related to the volume of overwash surges.     

Prediction of wave height and period for a constant wind velocity using the JONSWAP results

The results of the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), carried out in the North Sea in 1969, are used to derive formulae for significant wave height and wave period in terms of the wind speed (assumed constant) and fetch or duration. Values from the wave height formula are compared with those from the formulae of Bretschneider (1973) and Darbyshire (1963). It is proposed that the JONSWAP results be used for the prediction of fetch and duration limited waves formed under the action of the local wind field.     

GLORIA survey of the oceanic-continental transition of the Havre-Taupo back-arc basin

A GLORIA (Geological Long-Range Inclined Asdic) side-scan sonar survey, covering 23,000 km², provides the first complete imagery of an active and contiguous, oceanic to continental back-arc system, namely, the Havre Trough to Taupo Volcanic Zone (TVZ) New Zealand. Havre Trough tectonism and volcanism relates to a series of laterally discontinuous, mutiple spreading rifts which terminate southward at the 3-km-deep Ngatoro Basin. A 45-km sinistral offset attributed toen echelon synthetic shearing separates the basin from the actively spreading TVZ. Sonographs reveal a youthful and complex volcanic seascape with 20 newly discovered seamounts, whereas flanking regions are mantled with a largely featureless mud blanket.     

The visual estimation of shore-breaking wave heights

Although a number of programmes for the visual estimation of breaking wave height have been, or are being, operated in different parts of the world (USA-LEO, Australia-COPE), there has been little investigation of the reliability of such data to make precise evaluations of breaking wave height. Using a combination of field data for simultaneous visual estimations and measurements of breaking wave height, it can be shown that experienced observers are able to estimate mean height with only a 20% error. Also the moments of the breaking wave spectrum may be calculated, allowing quick and cheap measurements of extreme waves.LEO records from Florida and California indicate that almost 50% of the data are redundant as frequency of observation could be halved without loss. However, records appear to be filtered, inasmuch as extreme waves are underestimated.     

A large submarine debris flow in the path of the Pacific deep western boundary current off New Zealand

The Pacific deep western boundary current (DWBC) encounters an unstable continental margin where it flows across the New Zealand convergent plate boundary. Seismic profiles show the DWBC was intercepted by several submarine landslides, the latest (~38-100 ka) being the newly discovered Matakaoa debris flow. Occupying ~650 km³, the flow extends 200 km from Matakaoa re-entrant to Kermadec Ridge to form a 37-68 m high lobe in the current's path. This deposit appears to have (1) reduced the size of gaps in the western boundary, thereby reducing leakage of the DWBC, and (2) temporarily reduced the terrigenous supply into the flow by impeding the passage of turbidity currents from New Zealand.     

Controls on erosion patterns and sediment transport in a monsoonal,tectonically quiescent drainage,Song Gianh,central Vietnam

The Song Gianh is a small‐sized (~3500 km²), monsoon‐dominated river in northern central Vietnam that can be used to understand how topography and climate control continental erosion. We present major element concentrations, together with Sr and Nd isotopic compositions, of siliciclastic bulk sediments to define sediment provenance and chemical weathering intensity. These data indicate preferential sediment generation in the steep, wetter upper reaches of the Song Gianh. In contrast, detrital zircon U‐Pb ages argue for significant flux from the drier, northern Rao Tro tributary. We propose that this mismatch represents disequilibrium in basin erosion patterns driven by changing monsoon strength and the onset of agriculture across the region. Detrital apatite fission track and ¹⁰Be data from modern sediment support slowing of regional bedrock exhumation rates through the Cenozoic. If the Song Gianh is representative of coastal Vietnam then the coastal mountains may have produced around 132 000–158 000 km³ of the sediment now preserved in the Song Hong‐Yinggehai Basin (17–21% of the total), the primary depocenter of the Red River. This flux does not negate the need for drainage capture in the Red River to explain the large Cenozoic sediment volumes in that basin but does partly account for the discrepancy between preserved and eroded sediment volumes. OSL ages from terraces cluster in the Early Holocene (7.4–8.5 ka), Pre‐Industrial (550–320 year BP) and in the recent past (ca. 150 year BP). The older terraces reflect high sediment production driven by a strong monsoon, whereas the younger are the product of anthropogenic impact on the landscape caused by farming. Modern river sediment is consistently more weathered than terrace sediment consistent with reworking of old weathered soils by agricultural disruption.     

Azimuthal structures in the wind and chromosphere of the herbig Ae star ab aur. preliminary results from the MUSICOS 1992 campaign

MUSICOS (for MUlti-SIte COntinuous Spectroscopy) is an international project to facilitate and organize world-wide multi-site campaigns in high resolution spectroscopy, in view of obtaining a complete time coverage of various types of variable stellar phenomena.In the framework of this project a vast spectroscopic campaign was organized in December 1992, involving 8 sites well distributed in longitude around the Earth. The observations concerned three scientific programs, among which was the study of azimuthal structures in the wind and chromosphere of the pre-Main-Sequence Herbig Ae star AB Aur.The Hei 5876 line of AB Aur, which is formed in the expanding chromosphere of this star, in the innermost parts of its wind, was monitored at a resolution of 30000, nearly continuously for about 4 days. A spectacular variability of this line was discovered, the profile changing from pure emission to a composite profile including a deep absorption component in the course of a few hours. This variability can be the signature of azimuthal structures in the wind of AB Aur.We present the data collected during the campaign, and discuss possible interpretations of the spectacular variations of the Hei 5876 line.ESA/VILSPAUniversity of British Columbia CanadaBased on observations obtained during the MUSICOS 92 MUlti-SIte COntinuous Spectroscopic campaign from the National Solar Observatory McMath/Pierce 1.5 m, University of Hawaii 2.2 m, Beijing Observatory Xinglong 2.16 m, La Palma 4.2 m William Herschel Telescope, and Observatoire de Haute-Provence 1.52 m telescopes.Presented at the Cosmic Winds and the Heliosphere Conference in Tucson, Arizona, U.S.A., October 18–22, 1993.Visiting Astronomer, Kitt Peak National Observatory, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, which is operated by the Association of Universities for Research in Astronomy, Inc., under cooperative agreement with the National Science Foundation.Visiting Astronomer National Solar Observatory, National Optical Astronomy Observatories, which is operated by the Association of Universities for Research in Astronomy, Inc., under cooperative agreement with the National Science Foundation.     

Volunteer health and emotional wellbeing in marine protected areas

Citizen science monitoring programs in the marine environment frequently focus on volunteer collected data precision for conservation and resource use of marine biota. Few studies have examined the social science aspects of volunteer engagement in marine monitoring programs in a quantifiable manner. This research focuses on emotional attitudes of Sea Search volunteers who monitor Marine National Parks and Marine Sanctuaries in Victoria, Australia. Volunteers responded that their participation in Sea Search activities made them feel good emotionally and mentally, with active learning, such as remembering names of marine biota, stimulating brain activity and memory. Volunteer monitoring efforts generated personal satisfaction through their contributions, feelings of enjoyment, and socialising with others. Sea Search volunteers gain a sense of want to protect and conserve the marine environment through positive behaviour change. By understanding and having a sense of meaning towards the marine environment, the volunteers felt a sense of pride in themselves. The concepts of volunteer connection to the natural environment and positive mental and emotional health are important for any citizen science monitoring program and should be used in the program’s aims and strategies as an effective means to attract volunteers. A functional framework which clearly communicates and assesses not only the scientific expectations from a citizen science program, but also the health and wellbeing connections to nature, need to be addressed in Government marine and coastal strategies.