Velocity predictions for shoaling and breaking waves with a Boussinesq-type model

In this paper, the performance of a 1-D Boussinesq model is evaluated against laboratory data for its ability to predict surf zone velocity moments. Wave evolution over a plane beach and a complex bathymetry both extending into the surf-zone is examined for six cases. For the plane beach, these comprise two cases, a spilling and a plunging cnoidal wave. For the complex bathymetry, these comprise four cases of longer and short wavelengths (spilling and plunging breakers), with regular and irregular periodicity. The model evaluation places emphasis on parameters of the wave field that could be used for the prediction of sediment transport; orbital velocity, undertow, velocity skewness, kurtosis and asymmetry. It is found that, despite an overestimation of the depth-averaged horizontal velocity in the regular waves cases, the predicted higher order velocity moments and undertow are in good agreement with the laboratory data. A bispectral analysis demonstrates that the nonlinear transfers of energy amongst the low order harmonics are well reproduced, but energy exchanges with the higher harmonics are less well predicted. As a result, the model handles velocity moments better in the shorter wave tests than in the long wave cases where triad interactions are stronger. Of the four parameters describing wave breaking, the model behaviour is most sensitive to the critical wave front slope φ_B, especially with regard to velocity skewness and kurtosis predictions. It is also found that increasing the thickness of the surface roller for the case of plunging breakers improves the model's performance.     

A revised method for determining the direct and diffuse components of the total short‐wave radiation

A relationship, derived by Liu and Jordan (1960), under which the total short‐wave radiation may readily be subdivided into its direct and diffuse components is shown to vary both spatially and seasonally. This variability is attributed to changes in the importance of the multiple reflection of short‐wave radiation between the earth's surface and atmosphere. A revised relationship, which incorporates the influence of this process, is shown to have applicability at a large number of Canadian locations.     

A method of determining proximity of marginal seas to an ocean

On any area of continental shelf the foraminiferal assemblage in the bottom sediment is likely to be composed of an indigenous benthic component and an allochthonous planktonic component sedimented from the water column above. Planktonic forminiferids are essentially oceanic and it seems clear that their presence in shelf sediments is often due to transport from an oceanic source. Evidence from the Celtic Sea, northwestern Gulf of Mexico, Persian Gulf and Andaman Sea shows that with passage away from the ocean there is a reduction in the planktonic—benthic ratio in the bottom sediment, a progressive decrease in size of the planktonic tests and a reduction in diversity of the planktonic assemblage. Thus a study of the relationships between the planktonic and benthic foraminiferids in these areas gives a measure of proximity to or isolation from the ocean. It is suggested that these relationships are useful tools in the interpretation of palaeoecology and in the reconstruction of former patterns of water circulation.     

The dissolution of opaline silica of diatom tests in sea water

Two different series of measurements have been made of the solubilities and rates of solution in sea water of acid-washed siliceous tests of the diatomsThalassiosira decipiens andRhizosolenia hebetata. The kinetic approach was carried out on the assumption that the tests behave as identical solid spheres. If the tests were present in considerable excess over that required for saturation of the water with respect to silica, the dissolution obeyed first order reaction kinetics and its rate was proportional to the surface area of the exposed tests. When the tests were not in excess the kinetics of dissolution appeared to be more complex. This was considered to be due to a decrease in specific surface area as dissolution proceeded. An expression developed to allow for the change of surface area as a sphere dissolves offers a partial explanation of the kinetics when the tests are not present in excess.     

Interpretation of Mauna Loa atmospheric transmission relative to aerosols,using photometric precipitable water amouts

Precipitable water measurements made coincident in time and space with direct broadband solar irradiance measurements are used in conjunction with an atmospheric transmission model to derive a parameter whose major dependence is on total aerosol extinction. Irradiance measurements are used to calculate an atmospheric transmission factor (ATF) that is independent of the instrument calibration and the extraterrestrial solar constant. The dependency of the ATF on precipitable water is determined using LOWTRAN5, an atmospheric transmission model with high spectral resolution. Precipitable water measurements are then used to adjust the measured ATF to correspond to an ATF value obtained for a constant precipitable water amount. The remaining variability in the adjusted ATF is due mostly to aerosol extinction. The technique is applied to a 6-year period (1978–1983) for clear-sky mornings at Mauna Loa, Hawaii (MLO). MLO ATF aerosol residuals are compared with independently measured monochromatic aerosol optical depth. Results show that the ATF aerosol residual is nearly equal to the 500 nm aerosol optical depth prior to the eruption of E1 Chichon, at which time a nonlinear time-dependent relationship between the two quantities is evident. ATF aerosol residuals reflect the spectrally integrated aerosol influence on transmission and, therefore, could indicate better than monochromatic optical depth the radiation balance perturbations due to aerosols. The 6-year precipitable water record for MLO, determined from a dual-channel sunphotometer, has a mean value of 0.3 cm. An annual cycle in precipitable water is evident, as is a 4-month 5-standard-deviation drought from December 1982 through March 1983.     

The Burren: a glacial,karstic and biokarstic expression of a limestone plateau in western Ireland

The term glaciokarst describes a landscape where both glacial and karstic processes have contributed to geomorphological evolution and has been applied to a range of environments from the high arctic to the alpine Mediterranean. Nevertheless, glaciokarstic environments globally often exhibit significant variation in geomorphological processes and landforms due to these geographical differences. The Burren, County Clare, Republic of Ireland, is often quoted as a quintessential glaciokarstic landscape. However, the Burren and other similar environments would appear to lean towards one end of the glaciokarst spectrum, where solutional and biological processes have been dominant throughout the Holocene, in contrast to ice‐dominated glaciokarsts where karstic and biokarstic processes are temperature‐limited and cryospheric processes remain the principal geomorphological agents. Holocene landscape evolution and the development of a range of meso‐, micro‐ and nano‐scale karren features on limestone surfaces appears to be largely biokarstic in origin. Karstification of many glacially scoured limestone pavements would have begun under acidic soil cover, with biological soil processes contributing to smooth, rounded cryptokarstic surface forms. Holocene soil erosion is attributed to anthropogenic activity, climatic fluctuations and the evolution of the karstic groundwater system leading to vertical soil loss through widening grikes. Exposed limestone pavements subject to subaerial conditions often exhibit extensive lichen colonization which has been shown to influence the overall rate of karstification and contribute to the development of micro‐ and meso‐scale bioweathering features. Where cryptokarstic features have been exhumed from beneath soil cover, their evolution under subaerial conditions leads to intermediate, polygenetic karren features. In light of our current understanding of the Burren landscape, it is proposed that the term glaciobiokarstic may be a better expression to encompass the biological processes that have played a fundamental role in the evolution of the Burren and similar landscapes, without neglecting the contribution of glacial and inorganic karstic processes. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

双参数混合正则化方法及在电导率反演成像中的应用

通过引入带有二阶正则算子的正则化项,建立了一种双参数混合正则化方法.为确定最佳正则化参数,这里主要应用L-曲线法、偏差原理和广义交叉校验准则的优化组合来确定.首先对理论模型进行了数值模拟,通过与截断奇异值分解法、共轭梯度法及标准Tikhonov正则化法的结果比较,表明该方法不仅精度高,而且对于数据的随机扰动具有稳定性.然后将此方法应用于对电导率反演成像的计算中,得到的电导率反演成像精确细致可靠,也符合实际情况.这表明该方法求解地球物理反问题时,在增强反演的稳定性及减少多解性的同时,还能进一步提高反演计算速度.     

Sedimentary facies and depositional history of the Swan Islands,Honduras

Swan Island is a Honduran possession in the western Caribbean, located on the southeastern side of the Cayman Trench. Two sedimentary assemblages are found on the island: an older bedded sequence of mid-Tertiary age (Aquitanian or Burdigalian) and a younger sedimentary sequence of Late Pleistocene age. The older sequence is composed of a series of calcarenites, calcilutites, and siliciclastic mudstones; capping these are cliff-forming reefal carbonates of the younger sequence.The rocks of the older bedded sequence accumulated in deep water. Sedimentation consisted of a constant rain of pyroclastic debris interrupted by the episodic introduction of upslope carbonate material by turbidity currents. Uplift and deformation of this sequence was initiated sometime after the Early Miocene. By the Late Pleistocene, uplift had brought the rocks into water depths conducive to coral growth. Pleistocene sedimentation on the island was controlled by the interaction between tectonic uplift and eustatic sea-level changes. The primary controlling force on the tectonic history of the island is its proximity to the boundary between the North American and Caribbean plates.     

Cosmogenic-nuclide ages for New England coastal moraines, Martha's Vineyard and Cape Cod, Massachusetts, USA

Cosmogenic-nuclide exposure ages for 13 glacially transported boulders atop the Martha's Vineyard moraine, MA, USA, indicate that the southeastern margin of the Laurentide ice sheet reached its maximum extent during the last glaciation 23,200±500 yr ago. Another 10 age determinations from the younger Buzzards Bay moraine near Woods Hole, MA, indicate that this moraine complex was formed 18,800±400 yr ago. These ages correlate approximately with the terminations of cooling cycles recorded in Greenland ice cores and coeval ice-rafting events, suggesting that the marginal position of this sector of the ice sheet was tightly coupled to North Atlantic climate during the last glacial maximum.