On the radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas

The radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas of finite depth is investigated. The analytical expressions for the radiated and diffracted potentials are derived as infinite series by use of the method of separation of variables. The unknown coefficients in the series are determined by the eigenfunction expansion matching method. The expressions for wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients and reflection and transmission coefficients are given and verified by the boundary element method. Using the present analytical solution, the hydrodynamic influences of the angle of incidence, the submergence, the width and the thickness of the structure on the wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients, and reflection and transmission coefficients are discussed in detail.     

Uncertainty in predictions of oil spill trajectories in open sea

A method is introduced to calculate and to account for the uncertainties in the predictions of oil spill trajectories using a classic oil spill model. The method considers the output of the oil spill model as a function of random variables, which are the input parameters, and calculates the standard deviation of the output results which gives a measure of the uncertainty of the model given the uncertainties of the input parameters.Instead of a single trajectory that is calculated by the oil spill model using the mean values of the parameters, a band of trajectories can be defined when various simulations are done taking into account the uncertainties of the input parameters. This band of trajectories defines envelopes of the trajectories that are likely to be followed by the spill given the uncertainties of the input.The method is applied to an oil spill that occurred in open sea near Madeira Islands, in the Atlantic Ocean, in December 1989. The simulations allow the understanding of how a change in the wind direction drove the spill towards the Islands.The envelope of likely trajectories that is obtained with the uncertainty modelling shows a band of trajectories that is in better agreement with the observations than the single trajectory simulated by the oil spill model, based on mean parameters.     

Dynamics of arrays of floating point-absorber wave energy converters with inter-body and bottom slack-mooring connections

If point absorbers are employed in the extensive exploitation of the offshore wave energy resource, they should be deployed in arrays, the distance between the elements in the array being possibly tens of meters. In such cases, it may be more convenient that the array is spread moored to the sea bottom through only some of its elements, located in the periphery, while the other array elements are prevented from drifting and colliding with each other by connections to adjacent elements. An array of identical floating point absorbers located at the grid points of an equilateral triangular grid is considered in the paper. A spread set of slack-mooring lines connect the peripheric floaters to the bottom. A weight is located at the centre of each triangle whose function is to pull the three floaters towards each other and keep the inter-body mooring lines under tension. The power take-off system (PTO) is a linear damper activated by the buoy heaving motion. The whole system–buoys, moorings and power take-off systems–is assumed linear, so that a frequency domain analysis may be employed. Hydrodynamic interference between the oscillating buoys in array is accounted for. Equations are presented for a set of three identical point absorbers. This is then extended to more complex equilateral triangular grid arrays. Results from numerical simulations, with regular and irregular waves, are presented for the motions and power absorption of hemispherical converters in arrays of three and seven elements and for different mooring parameters and wave incidence angles. Comparisons are given with the unmoored and independently-moored buoy situations.     

The effect of recreational impacts on soil and vegetation of stabilised Coastal Dunes in the Sharon Park, Israel

Coastal sand dunes are considered among the most susceptible habitats to recreational use. The aim of this study was to monitor the impact of visitor use on soil and annual plants on long-established trails in the stabilised coastal dunes of the Sharon Park, Israel. The results indicate that:

1. The vegetation cover, height and species richness and diversity, as well as soil organic matter content were lower on trails subjected to high visitor use than that on trails under low use. However, soil compaction and moisture on high-use trails were higher than that on low use.

2. The rate of change in each of the vegetation properties moving outwards from the centre of the trail towards the undamaged area on its margins and beyond, was higher on trails under high visitor use than on low-use trails.

3. The impact of high visitor use is localised and limited to the trail boundaries and their immediate surroundings (6 m axis perpendicular to the trails), while the effect on low-use trails is dispersed over a larger area, apparently because the trail borders are less visually defined to the visitor.

The conclusion derived from this study is that the spatial damage caused to the park by the numerous low-use trails is higher than that caused by the trails under high visitor use. Thus, there is an immediate need to reduce the number of this type of trails and to rehabilitate them.     

Impact of grazing by benthic eukaryotic organisms on the nitrogen sediment–water exchange in the North Sea

The metabolic inhibitor cycloheximide was used to estimate the influence of primarily unicellular eukaryotes (heterotrophic protozoa) on nutrient recycling in different types of sediments in the North Sea. Fluxes of dissolved inorganic nitrogen across the sediment–water interface were measured in undisturbed sediment cores (controls) and compared to fluxes in sediment cores with cycloheximide added. If eukaryotes play an important role in nutrient recycling, one would expect to find lower nitrogen sediment–water effluxes in cores with cycloheximide due to the inactivation of eukaryotes. This important role hypothesised for eukaryotes was not generally observed: Only at four of the nineteen stations were ammonium effluxes significantly higher in controls than in cores with cycloheximide, and at five stations nitrate effluxes were significantly higher in the controls than in the cores with cycloheximide. Eukaryotic activity apparently contributed to the sediment–water exchange of ammonium through mineralisation of organic matter, nitrification and the subsequent release of ammonium and nitrate at these stations. At most other stations no differences were obtained between controls and cores with cycloheximide. This suggests that bacteria were the most important nutrient mineralisers at these stations at the time of the cruises.     

The Effect of Macrofauna on Porewater Profiles and Nutrient Fluxes in the Intertidal Zone of the Humber Estuary

Macrofauna, nutrient fluxes, porewater chemistry and sediment characteristics were measured at six intertidal mudflat sites in the Humber Estuary, U.K., during the different seasons. Nereis diversicolor , Macoma balthica and Corophium volutator were found to be the dominant macrofauna. Salinity was the baseline control on macrofauna distribution but this was overprinted by periodic impoverishment due to sediment mobilization. High resolution gel probe porewater samplers provided direct evidence for the impact of burrows on porewater chemistry. The macrofauna modified nutrient fluxes during periods of mud flat stability. Nereis caused a decrease in silicate and phosphate effluxes but enhanced ammonia release and nitrate uptake. Macoma enhanced ammonia and nitrite release. The impact of Corophium was not possible to discern. The Humber is a large, highly dynamic macrotidal estuary in which sediment resuspension has a large impact on porewater profiles, nutrient fluxes and macrofaunal communities. Simple patterns and inter-relationships which are seen in small sheltered estuaries are not observed in the Humber.     

North Brazil current: vertical structure

On the basis of the data ofin situ measurements of the velocities of currents and basic hydrophysical parameters (such as temperature and salinity) carried out during Cruise 41 of the R/VAkademik Vernadsky, we analyze the structure of the North Brazil Current near the continental slope and in the equatorial abyssal part of the ocean in winter, establish the regularities of changes in the current velocity with depth, and compare the structures of the North Brazil and Guiana Currents. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Breaking Criteria for Regular Waves on Gentle Slopes

Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion(H/d)_b for gentle slopes(i<1/100),inwhich H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point,is smaller than that for beachslopes of i>1/100),i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6.Goda indicatedthat the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study,so it should be alsocorrect and can be used for gentle beaches,i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be still largerthan 0.7.By use of high order nonlinear wave theory,this problem is analyzed in this study and the reasonwhy there is a large difference between different studies is explained.Moreover,the bottom energy loss dur-ing wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed.     

Spatial structure of the southern polar frontal zone of the Atlantic Ocean

On the basis of the many-year-average seasonal data array of temperature and salinity presented on a scale of one-degree averaging, by using a special quantitative criterion, we reveal a climatic frontal zone and determine both its physical and hydrological characteristics (such as the length width, and thickness of the frontal layer and the temperature, salinity, and density gradients) and its geographic coordinates. The many-year average seasonal variability of these characteristics is analyzed. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev