Tidally incised valleys on tropical carbonate shelves: An example from the northern Great Barrier Reef, Australia

The formation of incised valleys on continental shelves is generally attributed to fluvial erosion under low sea level conditions. However, there are exceptions. A multibeam sonar survey at the northern end of Australia's Great Barrier Reef, adjacent to the southern edge of the Gulf of Papua, mapped a shelf valley system up to 220 m deep that extends for more than 90 km across the continental shelf. This is the deepest shelf valley yet found in the Great Barrier Reef and is well below the maximum depth of fluvial incision that could have occurred under a − 120 m, eustatic sea level low-stand, as what occurred on this margin during the last ice age. These valleys appear to have formed by a combination of reef growth and tidal current scour, probably in relation to a sea level at around 30–50 m below its present position.

Tidally incised depressions in the valley floor exhibit closed bathymetric contours at both ends. Valley floor sediments are mainly calcareous muddy, gravelly sand on the middle shelf, giving way to well-sorted, gravely sand containing a large relict fraction on the outer shelf. The valley extends between broad platform reefs and framework coral growth, which accumulated through the late Quaternary, coincides with tidal current scour to produce steep-sided (locally vertical) valley walls. The deepest segments of the valley were probably the sites of lakes during the last ice age, when Torres Strait formed an emergent land-bridge between Australia and Papua New Guinea. Numerical modeling predicts that the strongest tidal currents occur over the deepest, outer-shelf segment of the valley when sea level is about 40–50 m below its present position. These results are consistent with a Pleistocene age and relict origin of the valley.

Based on these observations, we propose a new conceptual model for the formation of tidally incised shelf valleys. Tidal erosion on meso- to macro-tidal, rimmed carbonate shelves is enhanced during sea level rise and fall when a tidal, hydraulic pressure gradient is established between the shelf-lagoon and the adjacent ocean basin. Tidal flows attain a maximum, and channel incision is greatest, when a large hydraulic pressure gradient coincides with small channel cross sections. Our tidal-incision model may explain the observation of other workers, that sediment is exported from the Great Barrier Reef shelf to the adjacent ocean basins during intermediate (rather than last glacial maximum) low-stand, sea level positions. The model may apply to other rimmed shelves, both modern and ancient.     

Experimental investigation of forces and geometry of a net cage in uniform flow

A scale model of a flexible circular net with different weights attached to the bottom was tested in a flume tank. Global forces and net deformation were measured for different steady current velocities. Three different sizes of bottom weights were used in the tests. The results from these tests are presented and discussed with the emphasis on the dependency between the forces and the geometry. Comparison is also made to empirical based formulas for calculation of drag and lift forces on net structures. Findings show that i) the forces on, and deformation of a flexible net structure are mutually highly dependent on each other; ii) estimates of global forces on a flexible net structure calculated using simple drag formulas derived from stiff net panel experiments give large errors when compared to experimental measurements; iii) numerical models taking into account the dependency between force and deformation should be used to obtain accurate estimates of forces on flexible net structures; and iv) the forces on a flexible net structure are dependent on Reynolds number, and their dependency are similar to that of a regular cylinder.     

An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves.     

A review of eastern tropical Pacific oceanography: Summary

The collection of articles in this volume reviewing eastern tropical Pacific oceanography is briefly summarized, and updated references are given. The region is an unusual biological environment as a consequence of physical characteristics and patterns of forcing – including a strong and shallow thermocline, the ITCZ and coastal wind jets, equatorial upwelling, the Costa Rica Dome, eastern boundary and equatorial current systems, low iron input, inadequate ventilation of subthermocline waters, and dominance of ENSO-scale temporal variability. Remaining unanswered questions are presented.     

Side-scan and acoustic subbottom characterization of the sea floor near the Dry Tortugas, Florida

 Between 2 and 6 February, 1995, a 25 km² area at the Dry Tortugas (Florida Keys) was surveyed with a 100 kHz side-scan sonar system and 3.5-kHz subbottom profiler. The side-scan system revealed a pattern of alternating high and low backscatter. The subbottom profiler showed areas with no acoustic penetration between sediment troughs. The combination of both methods allowed delineation of the boundaries in high-backscatter regions, and sediment samples allowed correlations between high backscatter and coarser-grained sediments.     

Gravity at sea

This is a review article on the types of gravity-measuring instruments used or tested at sea since 1903, on the various extraneous accelerations that affect sea measurements, and on results obtained in several gravity surveys using one type of meter. Free-air gravity anomaly maps are included of: (1) the Gulf of Mexico; (2) a strip west of the coast from northern California to the southern tip of Alaska; and (3) north of Hawaii. Hypothetical crustal and subcrustal sections, consistent with gravity anomalies and seismic refraction data, are included for selected regions.     

Using benthic macrofauna to assess environmental quality of four intertidal mudflats in Hong Kong and Shenzhen Coast

Abstract-Intertidal zone is a significant wetland between land and ocean. It plays an important rolein maintaining local ecological balance. Both Mai Po and Futian intertidal mudflats are located in Shen-zhen Bay and are important "refueling" point along the East Asian/Australian flyway of migratory birds.The environmental quality of Mai Po and Futian mudflats have aroused great concern due to rapid eco-nomic developments in Hong Kong and Shenzhen in recent decades. Microinfauna of Mai Po and Futianmudflats was investigated in December 2000 and the faunal data were used to assess their environmentalquality. Two other mudflats, namely Ma Wan Typhoon Shelter (a more disturbed area) and Luk Kengintertidal mudflat (a place with relatively less human disturbance), were also sampled for macroinfaunaand used as reference mudflats. Shannon-Weaver species diversity index (I_(sd)), biotic coefficient (C_b)and macrofaunal pollution index (I_(mp)) of the macrofauna community on four intertidal mudflats wereused to     

Benthic macrofauna changes in areas of Venice lagoon populated by seagrasses or seaweeds.

Two areas of the Venice lagoon populated by seagrasses (three stations covered by Cymodocea nodosa (Ucria) Asherson, Zostera marina Linnaeus, Zostera noltii Hornemann) or seaweeds (two stations: one covered by Ulva rigida C. Agardh and another at present without seaweed biomass) were monitored by means of six surveys over a year in order to study macrofaunal composition and seasonal changes. The seagrass stations showed a mean species richness (28-30 S m(-2)), individual abundance (1854-4018 N m(-2)) and biomass (22.3-37.7 g m(-2) ash-free-dry-weight, AFDW) ca. 3-8 times higher than those populated by seaweeds (10-15 S m(-2), 494-1395 N m(-2) and 5.6-13.7 g m(-2) AFDW). Differences among seagrass or seaweed stations were much lower. The Ulva-dominated station showed a macrofauna completely different both from the other stations and the communities recorded ca. 30 years ago, before the prolific growth of Ulva. In this station, frequent biomass decompositions and anoxic crises created critical conditions for life favouring organisms with reduced life cycles, younger individuals and the epifaunal species instead of the infaunal ones. In particular, Ulva grazers and scrapers such as Gammarus aequicauda Stock and Gibbula adriatica Philippi were found to be by far the most abundant species, whereas the taxa characteristic of the associations found in the past, in the presence of seagrasses or seaweeds and typical of low eutrophicated environments, appear strongly reduced. Marked differences in the macrophyte dominance and in the bio-physico-chemical variables which characterise the main environmental conditions of the Venice lagoon support the different distribution and composition of macrofaunal communities. Seaweed stations appear mainly governed by the seasonal cycles of these un-rooted macrophytes which, by alternating periods of production and decomposition, are responsible for the drastic reduction of macrofauna biodiversity and biomass. Conversely, seagrass stations exhibit a better oxidisation of the environment and show conditions more favourable for macrofauna colonisation, especially in the presence of macrophytes which are characterised by very well developed below-ground systems such as Cymodocea nodosa.     

Design and projected performance of a flapping foil AUV

The design and construction of a biomimetic flapping foil autonomous underwater vehicle is detailed. The vehicle was designed as a proof of concept for the use of oscillating foils as the sole source of motive power for a cruising and hovering underwater vehicle. Primary vehicle design requirements included scalability and flexibility in terms of the number and placement of foils, so as to maximize experimental functionality. This goal was met by designing an independent self-contained module to house each foil, requiring only direct current power and a connection to the vehicle's Ethernet local area network for operation. The results of tests on the foil modules in the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) Marine Hydrodynamics Water Tunnel and the MIT Ship Model Testing Tank are both used to demonstrate fundamental properties of flapping foils and to predict the performance of the specific vehicle design based on the limits of the actuators. The maximum speed of the vehicle is estimated based on the limitations of the specific actuator and is shown to be a strong function of the vehicle drag coefficient. When using four foils, the maximum speed increases from 1 m/s with a vehicle C/sub D/ of 1.4 to 2 m/s when C/sub D/=0.1, where C/sub D/ is based on vehicle frontal area. Finally, issues of vehicle control are considered, including the decoupling of speed and pitch control using pitch-biased maneuvering and the tradeoff between actuator bandwidth and authority during both the cruising and hovering operation.