A new efficient 3D non-hydrostatic free-surface flow model for simulating water wave motions

A new three-dimensional, non-hydrostatic free surface flow model is presented. For simulating water wave motions over uneven bottoms, the model employs an explicit project method on a Cartesian the staggered gird system to solve the complete three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations. A bi-conjugated gradient method with a pre-conditioning procedure is used to solve the resulting matrix system. The model is capable of resolving non-hydrostatic pressure by incorporating the integral method of the top-layer pressure treatment, and predicting wave propagation and interaction over irregular bottom by including a partial bottom-cell treatment. Four examples of surface wave propagation are used to demonstrate the capability of the model. Using a small of vertical layers (e.g. 2–3 layers), it is shown that the model could effectively and accurately resolve wave shoaling, non-linearity, dispersion, fission, refraction, and diffraction phenomena.     

Sample Disturbance in Soft and Sensitive Clays: Analysis and Assessment

Despite the sophisticated methods employed to obtain high quality samples, they are prone to disturbance, due to stress release, let apart, due to sampling tools and techniques adopted. Critical reappraisal of different methods suggest that any method of sample quality assessment involving strength and deformation parameters would enable easier implementation and correct other engineering parameters for estimated sample disturbance. In this technical paper, sample disturbance index, using merely the slopes of compression paths, (representing mechanical response), in the pre- and post-yield stress regimes under odeometric loading conditions is proposed. This method is based on single oedometer test results on samples of unknown degrees of disturbance during sampling and handling. The unique feature of this approach is that the ideal rigid plastic material behavior is taken as reference. This eliminates the need for any additional experimental data or any calculations from the relationships formulated with any set of assumptions.     

Recent and Late Holocene environments on the southeastern shelf of the Laptev Sea as inferred from microfossil data

The study of diatoms and benthic foraminifers from the southeastern shelf of the Laptev Sea shows that their most diverse and abundant recent assemblages populate the peripheral underwater part of the Lena River delta representing the marginal filter of the sea. This area is characterized by an intense interaction between the fresh waters of the Siberian rivers and the basin seawater, the Atlantic one included. Local Late Holocene (～last 2300 years) environments reflect the main regional and global paleoclimatic changes, the Medieval Warm Period (～600–1100 years B.P.) and the Little Ice Age (～100–600 years B.P.) inclusive. In addition, the composition and distribution of planktonic foraminifers implies a strong influence of the Atlantic water during the Holocene optimum ～5100–6200 years B.P.     

Wave runup on a concentric twin perforated circular cylinder

The regular wave interaction with a twin concentric porous circular cylinder system consisting of an inner impermeable cylinder and an outer perforated cylinder was studied through physical model and numerical model studies. The experiments were carried out on the twin concentric cylinder model in a wave flume to study the wave runup and rundown at the leading and trailing edges of the perforated cylinder. It was found that the maximum wave runup on the perforated cylinder is almost same as the incident wave height. The experimental results were used to develop the predictive formulae for the wave runup and rundown on the perforated cylinder, which can be easily used for design applications. The wave runup profiles around the perforated cylinder for different values of ka and porosities were studied numerically using Green's Identity Method. The results of the numerical study are presented and compared with the experimental measurements.     

On the radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas

The radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas of finite depth is investigated. The analytical expressions for the radiated and diffracted potentials are derived as infinite series by use of the method of separation of variables. The unknown coefficients in the series are determined by the eigenfunction expansion matching method. The expressions for wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients and reflection and transmission coefficients are given and verified by the boundary element method. Using the present analytical solution, the hydrodynamic influences of the angle of incidence, the submergence, the width and the thickness of the structure on the wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients, and reflection and transmission coefficients are discussed in detail.     

Estimation of the oxygen and CO2 mean exchange between the ocean and the atmosphere in key areas of the ocean

Current estimations of gas exchange between the ocean and the atmosphere are based on the concepts about diffusive gas transfer across the interface and about a stationary character of the processes; however, under a strong wind, these concepts are invalid. Transfer equations for gas constitutents of the air are incorporated into a numerical model of a nonstationary upper layer of the ocean. These equations contain the source function—gas transfer by bubbles, which becomes noticeable even at a wind speed of 8–10 m/s. The fluxes of oxygen and CO₂ are calculated at a specified wind speed, dependences of these fluxes on the wind speed are constructed, and estimates for the average annual fluxes are obtained for several areas of the Gulf Stream and Kuroshio. A substantial change in the difference of the air-water gas contents under a strong wind, caused by the turbulent exchange growth and appreciably affecting the gas exchange, is noted. The influence of the carbonate system of seawater on the CO₂ transfer during a storm is estimated. The results obtained are compared to the estimates based on the traditional approach.     

Principal features of the World Ocean climate change in the Cenozoic and their possible causes

The objective of this study was to present details of the evolution of the thermal field of the ocean during the last Cenozoic glacial megacycle. The main causes of the phenomena observed are discussed based on the generalization of original data accumulated during many years and numerous publications. It is shown that, in the Eocene and Early Oligocene, the climatic conditions in the World Ocean were uniform and featured no evident zonal differences, the meridional temperature gradients were low, and the mean global temperature was close to the present-day value. Starting from the Late Oligocene and throughout the entire Neogene, the meridional contrasts in the temperature and hydrological conditions have increased, and, in the Late Pliocene, the climatic pattern resembled the present-day situation. The general tendency in the climate changes since the Eocene until the Pliocene consisted of its latitudinal differentiation and growing contrasts rather than of general climate cooling. In the Pleistocene, with the onset of the glaciation in the Northern Hemisphere, the character of the temperature field changed and variations in the mean global temperature values began to dominate. The factors that result from the climate changes observed are discussed and the causes are shown that lead to the differences between the author’s data and the existing concepts.     

Palynological characterization of gassy sediments in the inner part of Ría de Vigo (NW Spain). New chronological and environmental data

Palynological characterization of the pollen assemblages from core ZV-01 offers a reliable age record of shallow ‘gas seal’ and ‘gas reservoir’ sediments from the Ría de Vigo (NW Spain). Gassy sediments show a direct correspondence with the palynological assemblage zones (LPAZ) 2, 3 and 4, which range in age from 950 to 1510 a.d. for the interval 81–176 cm where gas is found. The facies acting as a seal would correspond to the sedimentation in the ria starting from 1510 a.d. These assemblages also provide significant data which make it possible to reconstruct the palaeoenvironmental changes recorded in the sedimentary infill of the Ría de Vigo. The gassy horizon corresponds to the phase when riparian and mesophilous forest were better represented. This coincides with a relative high abundance of Lingulodinium machaerophorum, which indicates that the waters of the ria had been less renewed by oceanic waters and had a plentiful supply of continental nutrients. At that time, anoxic conditions resulted from restricted vertical circulation of seawater and/or high biological productivity. The dinocyst assemblages overlying and underlying the gassy horizon in core ZV-01 are clearly different from those concomitant with the accumulation of the gassy sediments. This suggests that oceanographic conditions in the Ría de Vigo may have changed several times during the time interval covered by our record. The weaker relationship between L. machaerophorum/Spiniferites spp., and simultaneous significant increases in Impagidinium spp. and Bitectatodinium tepikiense may indicate a greater intrusion of colder, more oceanic waters into the Ría de Vigo, which may have provoked intensification in upwelling during two periods, ca. 700–850 a.d. and ca. 1500–1750 a.d.     

Quaternary evolution of the Gulf of İzmit (NW Turkey): a sedimentary basin under control of the North Anatolian Fault Zone

The Quaternary evolution of the Gulf of İzmit, situated on the tectonically active North Anatolian Fault Zone (NAFZ), was investigated using seismic reflection, paleontologic, and sediment textural data. On the basis of seismic stratigraphic and sedimentologic-paleontologic interpretations, four depositional units were distinguished within the Plio-Quaternary sequence of the Gulf of İzmit. According to these data, Plio-Quaternary deposits supplied from the northern terrestrial area started to accumulate during a progradational phase, in a south-facing half-graben. A coarse-grained sedimentary unit prograding into the gulf from the south since 200 ka b.p. indicates a dramatic variation in the evolution of the gulf, with the initiation of a new strike-slip fault of the NAFZ and a corresponding uplift of the Armutlu Peninsula in the south of the gulf. During the evolution of this fault from a wide shear zone consisting of right-stepped strike-slip faults and pull-apart basins to a localized principal fault zone, sediments were deposited under the influence of northerly prograding terrestrial and shallow-marine conditions due to relative sea-level fluctuations in the Marmara Sea. During this period, the Gulf of İzmit was invaded mainly by Mediterranean and partly by Black Sea waters. In the latest glacial period, shallow areas in the gulf became subaerially exposed, whereas the central and western sub-basins of the gulf turned into lakes. The present evolution of the Gulf of İzmit is controlled by the after effects of the new rupture of the NAFZ and the estuarine nature of the gulf environment.