A Nonlinear Model of Surf Beat

A nonlinear short-wave-averaged (surf beat) model is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called weighted-averaged flux (WAF) method (eg Watson et al., 1992), with time-operator splitting used for the treatment of some of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modelling breaking long waves. The short-wave (or primary-wave) energy equation is solved using a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. Results of validation indicate that the model performs satisfactorily in most respects.     

Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth

Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.     

Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

—In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water.     

A Modified Form of Mild-Slope Equation with Weakly Nonlinear Effect

Nonlinear effect is of importance to waves propagating from deep water to shallow water.Thenon-linearity of waves is widely discussed due to its high precision in application.But there are still someproblems in dealing with the nonlinear waves in practice.In this paper,a modified form of mild-slope equa-tion with weakly nonlinear effect is derived by use of the nonlinear dispersion relation and the steady mild-slope equation containing energy dissipation.The modified form of mild-slope equation is convenient to solvenonlinear effect of waves.The model is tested against the laboratory measurement for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach given by Berkhoff et al,The present numerical results are also comparedwith those obtained through linear wave theory.Better agreement is obtained as the modified mild-slope e-quation is employed.And the modified mild-slope equation can reasonably simulate the weakly nonlinear ef-fect of wave propagation from deep water to coast.     

Application of Line Boundary Technique to 2D Tidal Current Simulation

To deal with the problems concerning the shore boundary,moving boundary and engineeringboundary which are encountered frequently in 2D tidal current simulation by the finite difference method,theconcept of line boundary is introduced and studied here,and then the line boundary technique in common useis proposed in this paper.Analysis of some calculation cases shows that this technique is practical,effective,and simple in 2D tidal current simulation involving different boundaries.     

Modal Wave Number Tomography for South China Sea Front

1 .IntroductionTheSouthChinaSealiestothesoutheastpartoftheChinesecontinent.TheKuroshioflowsbytheeastsideoftheLuzonStraitfromsouthtonorthinwinter ,spring ,andautumn .TheKuroshioaf fectsnearcurrentfieldsandtemperaturefields,changingtheoceanenvironmentparametersandsoundpropagation .Thus ,theoceanacoustictomographytechniqueisofpotentialtolong term ,largescalemonitoringoftheocean .Themodalwavenumbertomographymethod (Rajanetal.,1 987;Frisketal.,1 989)isusedtoobtainthesoundspeedprofileinwatercol…     

振动系统的逆与优化问题(Part-Ⅱ)部分边界值再构内部场(I)理论(英文)

研究由一振动体的部分边界测量数据再构振动体内部场的逆问题。提出基于偏微分方程控制方法的一种算法 ,并证明原用于处理散射问题的 Null- field method可用来求解优化问题的随伴问题。     

1990s年代际转型前后南海季风系统的季节变化

利用多变量经验正交分解(MV-EOF)等方法,研究了在季节变化尺度上南海季风系统的时空分布特征。结果表明:南海夏季风的爆发时间在1993—1994年前后存在显著的年代际转型,由爆发偏晚转变成爆发偏早。第一模态表现为冬夏反位相的年周期变化,但爆发早年夏季风持续时间略长于爆发晚年,空间上都反映了南海中央海盆区的夏季强降水和850 hPa上南海北部的气旋性环流异常,但夏季风爆发早年中国华南沿海降水加强而南海南部降水偏少。相应的大范围环流场上主要反映了南海夏季风爆发后进入盛夏时节亚太地区大范围的环流特征,南海夏季风爆发偏早年索马里越赤道气流偏强,东亚季风槽位置偏北,爆发偏晚年则相反。第二模态反映了南海季风系统春秋反位相的季节变化,且秋季的振幅更强,空间降水场上对应着秋季华南沿海和南海北部与南海中南部北旱南涝的跷跷板式分布,850 hPa风场上则主要表现为异常的东北季风,该模态时空特征表明南海夏季风爆发偏早年的秋季,冬季风建立也偏早,越南及周边地区的降水偏多。相应的大范围环流场上则主要反映了冬季风的环流特征,在南海夏季风爆发偏早年的秋季,菲律宾以东的热带对流减弱,PJ波列增强,爆发晚年则相反。     

珠江口滨海湿地退化现状、原因及保护对策

2007年和2008年秋季对珠江口滨海湿地进行了环境现状综合调查,结果表明,珠江口滨海湿地退化主要表现在4个方面:天然湿地面积减少、湿地生产力不断下降、湿地环境状况持续恶化和湿地景观破碎化。珠江口滨海湿地退化的原因主要为滩涂开发与围填海、污染物排放、养殖污染、海平面上升、过度捕捞、海砂开采和港口码头建设以及水土资源开发等因素。滨海湿地保护与利用对策主要有:制定有关滨海湿地保护的法律法规和湿地保护与利用规划;加强人才队伍建设和滨海湿地有关技术研究;建立滨海湿地动态监测体系;加大滨海湿地保护区建设的力度;加强宣传和教育。     

单点高频地波雷达资料估算潮能耗散的方法

使用嵊泗站所布设的地波雷达观测获取的径向流数据,以及嵊泗、芦潮港、岱山3个潮汐观测站水位资料,采用两点近似投影方法反演流场全矢量流速,并用T-Tide程序计算调和常数,分别计算O1、K1、M2、S2各分潮流速场及迟角场,并计算各点上的潮能通量及潮能耗散,得到嵊泗岛以西杭州湾口区域潮能耗散同地形存在良好对应关系,充分证明了采用地波雷达观测数据进行潮能耗散计算这一方法的可行性,供相关工作者作进一步研究和讨论.