Secondary flow caused by differential roughness,Langmuir circulations,and their effect on the development of sand ribbons

The process of Differential Roughness Secondary Flow (DRSF), hitherto little recognized, recently was demonstrated in a wind tunnel and in a flume. It is suggested here the DRSF may, in the natural environment, play an important part in the persistence and sharp definition of sand ribbons, previously initiated by other processes. In 1980 Karl described a series of sand ribbons, alternating with exposed substrate, which he attributed to the effect of Langmuir circulations. Although Langmuir Circulation Secondary Flow (LCSF) may indeed, in some cases, initiate sand ribbons, the sharply-defined edges typical of these features are explained better by DRSF.     

Vertical migration and mortality of benthos in dredged material: Part II—crustacea

Benthic invertebrates have many characteristics which make them prime candidates for burial studies in dredged material. A major concern in dredging and disposal projects is the effect of burial on the survival of benthic invertebrates. The purpose of the research reported in this paper was to determine the ability of estuarine benthos—in particular three species of molluscs (Mercenaria mercenaria, Nucula proxima and Ilyanassa obsoleta)—to migrate vertically in natural and exotic sediments and to determine the survival of benthos when exposed to particular amounts of simulated dredged material.Mortalities generally increased with increased sediment depth, with increased burial time and with overlying sediments whose particle size distribution differed from that of the species native sediment. Temperature affected mortalities and vertical migration. It was concluded that vertical migration is a viable process which can significantly affect rehabilitation of a dredged disposal area. Under certain conditions, vertical migration should be considered, together with larval settling and immigration from outside impacted areas, as a mechanism of recruiting a dredgedump site.     

Lethal and sublethal effects of short term acute doses of Kuwait Crude Oil and a dispersant Corexit 9527 on bay scallops, Argopecten irradians (Lamarck) and two predators at different temperatures

Investigations of short term acute exposure of bay scallops, Argopecten irradians and two scallop predators, the oyster drill Urosalpinx cinerea and the common starfish Asterias forbesi, to oil, dispersant, and oil-dispersant mixtures (Kuwait Crude Oil and Corexit 9527) suggested that predator and prey have different lethal susceptibilities. Scallops were most sensitive to dispersant and dispersant mixed with oil, starfish were only sensitive to dispersant while the oyster drill seemed unaffected even though all were exposed to dilutions of identically prepared stock solutions. Scallops were least susceptible during winter months and most susceptible at summer temperatures. Treatment had less effect on predators than on scallops at summer temperatures. Sublethal concentrations of dispersant and oil-dispersant mixtures diminished the behavioural ability of scallops to recognise drills and starfish. The degree of effect increased with temperature. Predator detection of prey at the same concentrations was more complex. The feeding response or posturing reflex of starfish was significantly slowed by all treatments. In contrast, drills were unaffected in their recognition of scallop effluent in a choice chamber after treatment.     

Artificial upwelling induced by ocean currents —Theory and experiment

A submerged apparatus, which consists of a buoy, several horizontal contraction and expansion tubes (Venturi-type tubes) and a long pipe, is expected to be used to pump the subsurface sea-water (200–300 meter depth) containing abundant nutrients to surface layer (50–100 m) by the dynamic of ocean currents. i.e. an artificial upwelling without energy cost. A preliminary experiment and analysis are undertaken and shows that the capacity of pumping the nutrient-rich sea-water is worth to build a pilot prototype model.     

The formation and evolution of East Australian current warm-core eddies

Data on East Australian Current (EAC) warm-core eddies were obtained over the period 1976–1978 by the Department of Defence and the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization (CSIRO). In that time we have learned that warm eddies form by pinch-off of poleward EAC meanders, can coalesce with the EAC and appear generally similar to Gulf Stream, Kuroshio and other current system eddies. Two eddies were tracked over 1977–1978 with satellite buoys and one (eddy B) was repeatedly studied over eleven months. A deep winter core formed by winter convective cooling and the following summer a new surface mixed layer formed on top of the core. The seasonal changes have been analysed for heat content and changes in dynamic relief. The eddy decayed with a time constant of 650 ± 150 days, due to upwelling below the seasonal thermocline. Surface cooling had little effect on eddy lifetime. The eddy contracted horizontally, possibly after some interaction with the EAC, giving rise to eddy spin-up with increasing age. Surface currents increased after eleven months to 2.0 m s^?1. The dynamic relief during summer was also apparently boosted by contact with the EAC. Eddy B was observed to coalesce with a new meander of the EAC rather than drift away to the south. It is proposed that the formation of these eddies is governed by the westward propagation of the baroclinic Rossby wave known as the Tasman Front. Pinch-off of eddies adjacent to the coast and the variable flow of the EAC may be caused by the baroclinic wave ‘breaking’ on the coast. The eddy formation rate is about two per year and most eddies coalesce with the EAC and do not escape to the south. Eddies coalesce and re-separate, creating many subsurface isothermal layers from old cores south of 34°S.     

Morphodynamics of a bar-trough surf zone

A field study was made of the distinguishing morphodynamic processes operating in a surf zone which perennially exhibits accentuated bar-trough topography (the “longshore-bar-trough” and “rhytmic-bar-and-beach” states as described by Wright and Short, 1984). Characteristic features of the morphology include a shallow bar with a steep shoreward face, a deep trough, and a steep beach face. This morphology, which is favored by moderate breaker heights and small tidal ranges, strongly controls the coupled suite of hydrodynamic processes. In contrast to fully dissipative surf zones, the bar-trough surf zone is not at all saturated and oscillations at incident wave frequency remain dominant from the break point to the subaerial beach. The degree of incident wave groupiness does not change appreciably across the surf zone. Infragravity standing waves which, in dissipative surf zones, dominate the inshore energy, remain energetically secondary and occur at higher frequencies in the bar trough surf zone. Analyses of the field data combined with numerical simulations of leaky mode and edge wave nodal—antinodal positions over observed surf-zone profiles, indicate that the frequencies which prevail are favored by the resonant condition of antinodes over the bar and nodes in the trough. Standing waves which would have nodes over the bar are suppressed. Sediment resuspension in the surf zone appears to be largely attributable to the incident waves which are the main source of bed shear stress. In addition, the extra near-bottom eddy viscosity provided by the reformed, non-breaking waves traversing the trough significantly affects the vertical velocity profile of the longshore current. Whereas the bar is highly mobile in terms of onshore—offshore migration rates, the beach face and inner regions of the trough are remarkably stable over time.     

Extension of the Narmada — Son lineament on the continental margin off Saurashtra,Western India as obtained from magnetic measurements

Magnetic total intensity values and bathymetric data collected on the continental margin off Saurashtra were, used to prepare magnetic anomalies and bathymetric contour maps. The magnetic anomalies are considered to have been caused by the Deccan Trap flood basalts which underlie the Tertiary sediments. Interpretation of the magnetic data using two-dimensional modelling method suggests that the magnetic basement is block faulted and deepens in steps from less than 1.0 km in the north to about 8.0 km towards the southern portion of the study area. The WNW-ESE trending faults identified in the present study extend across the Saurashtra continental margin between Porbandar and Veraval and appear to represent a major linear tectonic feature. The relationship of these fault lineaments with the regional tectonic framework have been discussed to indicate that they conform better as the northern boundary faults of the Narmada rift graben on the continental margin off Saurashtra.     

Morphology and tectonics of the Galapagos Triple Junction

We describe the results of GLORIA and SEABEAM surveys, supplemented by other marine geophysical data, of the Galapagos Triple Junction where the Pacific, Cocos and Nazca plates meet. The data allowed detailed topographic and tectonic maps of the area to be produced. We located each spreading axis with a precision of about 1 km. All three plate boundaries change character as the triple junction is approached to take on morphologies typical of slower spreading axes: the fast-spreading East Pacific Rise develops the morphology of a medium-spreading rise, and the medium-spreading Cocos-Nazca Rise takes on the appearance of a slow-spreading ridge. The axis of the East Pacific Rise was found to be completely continuous throughout the survey area, where it runs along the 102°05 W meridian. The Cocos-Nazca axis, however, fails to meet it, leaving a 20-km-wide band of apparently normal East Pacific Rise crust between its tip and the East Pacific Rise axis. As a consequence there must be considerable intra-plate deformation within the Cocos and Nazca plates. A further 40 km of the Cocos-Nazca axis is characterised by oblique faulting that we interpret to be a sign of rifting of pre-existing East Pacific Rise crust. We infer that true sea-floor spreading on the Cocos-Nazca axis does not begin until 60 km east of the East Pacific Rise axis. Other areas of similar oblique faulting occur on the Pacific plate west of the triple junction and along the rough-smooth boundaries of the Galapagos Gore. We present a model involving intermittent rifting, rift propagation, and sea-floor spreading, to explain these observations.     

Behavioural Effects of Chemically Dispersed Oil and Subsequent Recovery in Diploria strigosa (Dana)

Abstract. Survival and behaviour of the hermatypic coral Diploria strigosa was studied during 6–24 h doses with water-accomodated fractions of chemically dispersed crude oil, and for a subsequent recovery period of 1 month. Experiments utilized a flow-through laboratory dosing procedure and incorporated petroleum hydrocarbon measurements in order to simulate a major but short-term oil spill in shallow subtidal benthic reef environments. Chemically dispersed oil treatments consisted of Arabian Light Crude oil with Corexit 9527 or BP1100WD at 1–20 ppm concentrations of oil.
In general, effects observed were sub-lethal, temporary, and associated with the highest concentrations tested. Responses to the presence of dispersed oil at 20ppm for 24 h included mesenterial filament extrusion, extreme tissue contraction, tentacle retraction and localized tissue rupture. The nature and severity of reactions during the dosing phase varied between colonies and treatments, but colonies typically resumed normal behaviour within 2 h to 4 d of the recovery period. It therefore seems unlikely that observed biological effects would impair long-term viability.     

Calibration of visual observations of wave period

Visual observations of wave properties are an important source of statistical information needed for the prediction of design and operational conditions of ocean structures. In particular, mean wave periods are important parameters for predicting the response of ocean structures. The existing calibration studies were based on data sets with a poor correlation between observations and measurements. The data set analysed here show a good correlation indicating the feasibility of collecting further good data sets to provide an adequate calibration to the existing statistical compilations of wave data.