JONSWAP's parameters: Sorting out the inconsistencies

The original prognostic equations for the JONSWAP-spectrum contained inconsistencies. A subsequent paper (Hasselmann et al., 1976, J. phys. Oceanogr.6, 200–208) attempted to regularise the situation. This paper shows that there were still inconsistencies in the prognostic equations giving overestimations of the first moment of the spectrum and consequently the significant wave height. The prognostic equations are reworked systematically and results presented. It is shown that variable σ_a, σ_b and γ must be used to achieve consistent results     

The influence of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbon residues on natural phytoplankton biomass

The effect of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbons in the environment on phytoplankton biomass measured as chlorophyll a was studied near the oil tanker route in the southern Bay of Bengal. In the transect from 5° N, 77° E to 5° N, 87° E the concentrations of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbons were negatively correlated with phytoplankton biomass, whereas in the 0° N, 87° E to 1° N, 79° E transect they were positively correlated with phytoplankton biomass. The mean petroleum hydrocarbon concentrations in the two transects were 12·12 ± 4·67 μg litre⁻¹ and 11·23 ± 4·5 μg litre⁻¹, respectively.It is surmised that the effect of dissolved petroleum hydrocarbons on phytoplankton biomass varies depending on the nature rather than the quantity of petroleum hydrocarbons present. Culture studies with unialgal Nitzschia sp. in seawater collected from selected stations in the study area as well as in artificial seawater spiked with the water-soluble petroleum hydrocarbon fraction of light Arabian Crude support this.     

Study of fluoride in polluted and unpolluted estuarine environments

Mindhola River estuary, which receives industrial waste containing high concentrations of fluoride, and Purna River estuary, which is free from fluoride contamination, have been investigated. While fluoride behaved conservatively in Purna River estuary, significant deviation from the theoretical dilution line (TDL) in the chlorinity range 0·5–8‰ was observed in Mindhola River estuary due to the externally added fluoride which largely remained in solution. The excess of fluroide over the theoretically calculated value was at a maximum around a chlorinity of 3‰. High natural fluoride content of the river waters resulted in F/Cl ratios exceeding 300 × 10⁻⁵ at low chlorinities. The ratio decreased rapidly with increasing chlorinity and the value near to that of seawater was observed at chlorinities above 14‰.     

A clay mineral investigation of six cores from the Gulf of Mexico

Samples were studied from each color change along six gravity cores from nearshore to deep-sea areas in the Gulf of Mexico. Analytical methods and techniques used to characterize the sediments were X-ray diffraction, differential thermal analysis, cation exchange capacity, particle size distribution and fractionation of the clay-size material with the supercentrifuge.     

Geoacoustic and physical properties of carbonate sediments of the Lower Florida Keys

 Near-surface sediment geoacoustic and physical properties were measured from a variety of unconsolidated carbonate sediments in the Lower Florida Keys. Surficial values of compressional and shear speed correlate with sediment physical properties and near-surface acoustic reflectivity. Highest speeds (shear 125–150 m s^-1; compressional 1670–1725 m s^-1) are from sandy sediments near Rebecca Shoal and lowest speeds (shear 40–65 m s^-1; compressional 1520–1570 m s^-1) are found in soft, silty sediments which collect in sediment ponds in the Southeast Channel of the Dry Tortugas. High compressional wave attenuation is attributed to scattering of acoustic waves from heterogeneity caused by accumulation of abundant shell material and other impedance discontinuities rather than high intrinsic attenuation. Compared to siliciclastic sediments, carbonate sediment shear wave speed is high for comparable values of sediment physical properties. Sediment fabric, rather than changes due to the effects of biogeochemical processes, is responsible for these differences.     

Influence of Wind on Dynamics and Flushing of Shallow Estuaries

Observations of two small estuaries in Cape Cod, U.S.A. indicate large variations in salinity structure that are forced by variations in along-estuary wind stress. During onshore winds, the estuarine circulation is reduced, and the along-estuary salinity gradient increases as freshwater accumulates. During offshore winds, the surface outflow is enhanced, freshwater is flushed out of the estuary, and the along-estuary salinity gradient becomes weak. Constrictions block the wind-induced flushing, resulting in strong salinity fronts across the constrictions. The residence time of one of the estuaries varies by more than a factor of three in response to variations in wind-induced flushing. The other estuary has little variation of flushing associated with winds, due to a constriction at the mouth that inhibits the wind-induced exchange. The strong influence of winds on the flushing of these estuaries is due in part to their shallow depths, which accentuates the influence of wind stress relative to the effects of the horizontal density gradient. In addition, the residence times of the estuaries are comparable to the time scale of wind forcing, allowing large changes in water properties during wind events.     

Observation of clouds and solar radiation over the Pacific Ocean as relation to global climate

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Quaternary geology of the Amazonian Lowland

The Quaternary history of the Amazon lowlands is characterized by deposition of sediments of Andean provenance and by the influences of changing sea levels. Areas well above the present water tables were not reached by Pleistocene high-water stages. These areas have been intensively weathered since the Tertiary, forming hard lateritic weathering horizons. These weathering horizons are best explained by the relatively constant, humid tropical climate throughout the Quaternary. In the western Amazonian Lowland, flood plains corresponding to the different Pleistocene sea-level heights were formed. During low sea level, erosion in the drainage areas increased and the water levels of the central Amazon River system were lowered. Valleys drowned and lakes formed in the lower reaches of rivers and creeks during high sea-level stages. These lakes (ria lakes) remained in the valleys with rivers having a low sediment load. Seismic profiling (3.5 kHz) in some of these lakes clearly showed deposits of the three last periods of Quaternary high sea-level stages.     

A quantitative analysis on the Egyptian Mediterranean waters

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