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101.
In most design applications such as alignment of the berthing structure and breakwater alignment, it becomes necessary to determine the direction of design wave. There are two different approaches to determine wave direction. One involves the use of first order Fourier coefficients (mean wave direction) while the other uses second order Fourier coefficients (principal wave direction). Both the average wave direction over the entire frequency range (0.03–0.58 Hz) and the direction corresponding to the peak frequency are used in practice. In the present study, comparison is made on wave directions estimated based on first and second order Fourier coefficients using data collected at four locations in the west and east coasts of India. Study shows that at all locations, the mean and principal wave directions for frequencies ranging from 0.07 to 0.25 Hz (±0.5 times peak frequency) co-vary with a correlation coefficient of 0.99 but at lower and higher frequencies, difference between the parameters is large. Average difference between the mean wave direction at peak frequency and the average over the frequency related to spectral energy more than 20% of maximum value is less, around 13°. Study shows that average difference in the sea and swell directions is around 39°. 相似文献
102.
Linearized water wave theory is used to show that a submerged long circular cylinder suitably constrained by springs and dampers to make small harmonic oscillations, can be extremely efficient in absorbing the energy in an incident regular wave whose crests are parallel to the axis of the cylinder. Experimental results are described which confirm the theory for small amplitude waves and which suggest that the device can still be fairly efficient in waves of moderate amplitude. 相似文献
103.
Tiago M. Alves Vasilios Lykousis Dimitris Sakellariou Stamatina Alexandri Paraskevi Nomikou 《Geo-Marine Letters》2007,27(1):41-61
Bathymetric, 9.5-kHz long-range sidescan sonar (OKEAN), seismic reflection and sediment-core data are used in the analysis
of two tectonic troughs south of Crete, Eastern Mediterranean Sea. Here, up to 1.2 s two-way travel time (TWTT) of strata
have accumulated since the Middle Miocene in association with extension in the South Aegean region. The study area comprises
>100-km- long by >25-km-wide basins filled by sediments subdivided into two seismic units: (1) an upper Unit 1 deposited in
sub-basins which follow the present-day configuration of the southern Cretan margin; (2) a basal Unit 2, more than 500 ms
(TWTT) thick, accumulated in deeper half-graben/grabens distinct from the present-day depocentres. Both units overlap a locally
stratified Unit 3 comprising the pre-Neogene core complex of Crete and Gavdos. In this work, the interpreted seismic units
are correlated with the onshore stratigraphy, demonstrating that denudation processes occurring on Crete and Gavdos in response
to major tectonic events have been responsible for high sedimentation rates along the proximal southern Cretan margin. Consequently,
topographically confined sedimentary units have been deposited south of Crete in the last 12 Ma, including turbidites and
other mass-flow deposits fed by evolving transverse and axial channel systems. Surface processes controlling facies distribution
include the direct inflow of sediment from alluvial-fan systems and incising mountain rivers onto the Cretan slope, where
significant sediment instability processes occur at present. In this setting, seismic profiles reveal eight different types
of stratigraphic contacts on basin-margin highs, and basinal areas show evidence of halokinesis and/or fluid escape. The acquired
data also show that significant changes to the margin’s configuration occurred in association with the post-Alpine tectonic
and eustatic episodes affecting the Eastern Mediterranean. 相似文献
104.
We present a numerical model of the dynamics of Lake Donuzlav, which enables one to perform simultaneous numerical analyses
of the currents, sea level, waves, and sediment transport. The model is based on the hydrodynamic block and the spectral wave
model. For typical storm situations, we study the specific features of the integral circulation of waters and the three-dimensional
structure of currents, investigate the wind-induced wave fields, and evaluate the flows of sediments and deformations of the
bottom. The presence of intense eddy structures is revealed in the field of currents caused by the bottom topography. A significant
intensification of waves in the south part of the lake is established in the case of penetration of storm waves through the
strait. It is shown that the account of waves leads to qualitative changes in the structure of circulation in the lake and
to the formation of well-pronounced areas of wave-induced elevations and lowerings of the sea level.
__________
Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 2, pp. 43–65, March–April, 2006. 相似文献
105.
Lysosomal sequestration of polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons (PNAHs), a major class of environmental contaminant, is a well-established phenomenon;1 considerably less is known about their pathological effects on lysosomes. Marine molluscs contain a number of lysosome-rich tissues and PNAHs are known to induce deleterious alterations in lysosomal structure and latency of lysosomal enzymes.2 The latter are presumed to involve destabilisation of the lysosomal membrane, resulting in increased permeability and reduced enzyme latency. If lysosomal injury involves derangement of membrane-lipid structure due to the interaction of PNAHs then it would be expected that membrane damage would be closely linked to the structural characteristics of the intruding molecule. Our results show that the effects of the isomeric PNAHs phenanthrene and anthracene on digestive cell lysosomal stability were markedly different in the marine mussel (Mytilus edulis) over the same range of tissue concentrations. Lysosomal membrane stability was determined using a cytochemical test for enzyme latency.3 相似文献
106.
A new algorithm for calculating the vertical velocity is suggested. Horizontal current velocity components are expressed through
level inclination and wind/temperature forcing. The acquired relations are given in the difference form, with the accuracy
being sufficiently high. The algorithm is tested using cases where a numerical solution is matched up with an exact one. The
derived data are subsequently analysed.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
107.
The influence of inhomogeneities of surface currents on the intensity of breaking wind waves is considered and a model for the relation between whitecap contrasts and the tensor of current gradients is developed. The imagery of typical patterns of ocean currents is discussed. The results of field observations supporting this model are given.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov. 相似文献
108.
An application of a Markov-chain model of shore erosion for describing the dynamics of sediment flux
Acquisition of coastline retreat rate time sequences (RRTS) is an important component of Arctic coastal monitoring. These data can be used not only to estimate sediment input into the sea during a fixed time period, but also to dynamically simulate sediment flux intensity. The RRTS were investigated at the Marre-Sale (Kara Sea) and Malii Chukochii Cape (East Siberian Sea) key sites. Statistical analysis demonstrated that the RRTS possess Markov characteristic. This allowed coastline dynamics to be described using a Markov-chain model. A model is discussed that combines Markov characteristic and information about the composition and structure of the permafrost sediments to describe sediment flux dynamics. 相似文献
109.
The results of simultaneous measurements of the bottom (6.25 and 35 m above the bottom) currents, deep currents, and surface currents made at three points in the north-east tropical Pacific Ocean are given. The bottom intensification of the current velocity is revealed in a layer of 35–25 m above the bottom. The estimation of the thickness of the bottom boundary layer (BBL) indicates that the velocity intensification is observed over the boundary layer upper border. A 10-day long benthic storm with a maximum measured velocity of 13 cm/s was revealed 6 m above the bottom. As was found, the origin of the benthic storm is associated with the penetration of an anticyclonic eddy down to the bottom.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov. 相似文献
110.
V. A. Ivanov S. P. Lyubartseva N. Mikhailova N. B. Shapiro 《Physical Oceanography》2001,11(6):509-524
We analyze the results of numerical calculations performed according to the three-dimensional interdisciplinary model of an
ecological system of the Black-Sea shelf zone near the estuary of the Danube. The complete system of equations of hydrothermodynamics
is solved together with transport equations of the advection-diffusion-reaction type used to describe the transformation of
a substance (nitrogen) between the components of the characteristic vectors of the ecosystem: plankton, detritus, and biogenic
elements (nitrates). We describe the distinctive features of the circumcontinental distribution of components obtained as
a result of numerical experiments and present arguments for the conclusion that the ecosystem of the Danube estuary water
area plays the role of a buffer zone between the press of the Danubian biogenic pollutions and the neighbouring areas of the
shelf zone and open sea.
Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev 相似文献