Data assimilation for a coastal area morphodynamic model: Morecambe Bay

This paper investigates the use of data assimilation in coastal area morphodynamic modelling using Morecambe Bay as a study site. A simple model of the bay has been enhanced with a data assimilation scheme to better predict large-scale changes in bathymetry observed in the bay over a 3-year period. The 2DH decoupled morphodynamic model developed for the work is described, as is the optimal interpolation scheme used to assimilate waterline observations into the model run. Each waterline was acquired from a SAR satellite image and is essentially a contour of the bathymetry at some level within the inter-tidal zone of the bay. For model parameters calibrated against validation observations, model performance is good, even without data assimilation. However the use of data assimilation successfully compensates for a particular failing of the model, and helps to keep the model bathymetry on track. It also improves the ability of the model to predict future bathymetry. Although the benefits of data assimilation are demonstrated using waterline observations, any observations of morphology could potentially be used. These results suggest that data assimilation should be considered for use in future coastal area morphodynamic models.     

Reference sediment core and paleogeography of the underwater Slupsk river foredelta in the Baltic Sea

Core Psd-590 (length 947 cm, water depth 124 m) penetrated the entire sequence of marine (Littorina) mud (730 cm) and stopped in gray lacustrine (Ancylus) clays with hydrotroilitic films. The Littorina mud is gray-colored, microlaminated in the interval of 730 to 700 cm, and dark gray with hydrotoilitic films and obscure microlamination higher in the section. According to the diatom data, typical marine sediments begin at the level of 620 cm, while the lithological-geochemical data indicate this change at the level of 730 cm. This level is marked by a considerable increase in the concentrations of SiO_2amorph, CO₂, C_org, and Mn in the sediments. In the interval of 730 to 620 cm, diatoms are represented by both freshwater and brackish-water species. The Littorina transgression began in the form of individual flows of saline North Sea waters into the Baltic Sea, which is evident from the microlamination and sharp peaks in the concentrations of the chemical elements. The transgression exhibits two weakening and one strengthening (core interval of 380 to 220 cm) stages; the latter was marked by the maximal water salinity. The post-Littorina mud contains molluscan shells and fish bones and is enriched in the fraction of 0.05–0.01 mm. The microlaminated Littorina mud was deposited during periods with stagnant conditions in the bottom water layer, while the homogenous sediments accumulated during periods of its aeration.     

A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.     

Linkages between Alaskan sockeye salmon abundance, growth at sea, and climate, 1955–2002

We tested the hypothesis that increased growth of salmon during early marine life contributed to greater survival and abundance of salmon following the 1976/1977 climate regime shift and that this, in turn, led to density-dependent reductions in growth during late marine stages. Annual measurements of Bristol Bay (Bering Sea) and Chignik (Gulf of Alaska) sockeye salmon scale growth from 1955 to 2002 were used as indices of body growth. During the first and second years at sea, growth of both stocks tended to be higher after the 1976–1977 climate shift, whereas growth during the third year and homeward migration was often below average. Multiple regression models indicated that return per spawner of Bristol Bay sockeye salmon and adult abundance of western and central Alaska sockeye salmon were positively correlated with growth during the first 2 years at sea and negatively correlated with growth during later life stages. After accounting for competition between Bristol Bay sockeye and Asian pink salmon, age-specific adult length of Bristol Bay salmon increased after the 1976–1977 regime shift, then decreased after the 1989 climate shift. Late marine growth and age-specific adult length of Bristol Bay salmon was exceptionally low after 1989, possibly reducing their reproductive potential. These findings support the hypothesis that greater marine growth during the first 2 years at sea contributed to greater salmon survival and abundance, which in turn led to density-dependent growth during later life stages when size-related mortality was likely lower. Our findings provide new evidence supporting the importance of bottom-up control in marine ecosystems and highlight the complex dynamics of species interactions that continually change as salmon grow and mature in the ocean.     

On the recent warming of the southeastern Bering Sea shelf

During the last decade, the southeastern Bering Sea shelf has undergone a warming of 3 °C that is closely associated with a marked decrease of sea ice over the area. This shift in the physical environment of the shelf can be attributed to a combination of mechanisms, including the presence over the eastern Bering Sea shelf of a relatively mild air mass during the winter, especially from 2000 to 2005; a shorter ice season caused by a later fall transition and/or an earlier spring transition; increased flow through Unimak Pass during winter, which introduces warm Gulf of Alaska water onto the southeastern shelf; and the feedback mechanism whereby warmer ocean temperatures during the summer delay the southward advection of sea ice during winter. While the relative importance of these four mechanisms is difficult to quantify, it is evident that for sea ice to form, cold arctic winds must cool the water column. Sea ice is then formed in the polynyas during periods of cold north winds, and this ice is advected southward over the eastern shelf. The other three mechanisms can modify ice formation and melt, and hence its extent. In combination, these four mechanisms have served to temporally and spatially limit ice during the 5-year period (2001–2005). Warming of the eastern Bering Sea shelf could have profound influences on the ecosystem of the Bering Sea—from modification of the timing of the spring phytoplankton bloom to the northward advance of subarctic species and the northward retreat of arctic species.     

Algorithm for non-hydrostatic dynamics in the Regional Oceanic Modeling System

A non-hydrostatic algorithm for the Regional Oceanic Modeling System (ROMS) is proposed. It is based on a decomposition technique for hydrostatic and non-hydrostatic pressure. The algorithm has a pressure-correction scheme with split-explicit time-stepping for baroclinic and barotropic vertical modes with a free surface. The algorithm implementation requires solving a Poisson equation for a non-hydrostatic pressure that has a non-symmetric matrix in discrete form. The efficiency of a different class of solvers and preconditioners were tested. The algorithm is successfully implemented with several examples where non-hydrostatic effects are important. These include standing external gravity waves; strongly nonlinear internal wave generation and transformation; stratified shear instability and its associated mixing; and nonlinear internal tidal generation over a ridge. The corresponding changes in the pre-processing and post-processing infrastructure in the existing hydrostatic ROMS code were performed to implement parallel elliptic solvers and a new set of dynamical equations.     

Bathymetric segregation of sea urchins on reefs of the Canarian Archipelago: Role of flow-induced forces

We examined whether adults of three species of sea urchins species (Diadema antillarum, Arbacia lixula, and Paracentrotus lividus) exhibit a consistent depth-dependent partitioning pattern on rocky reefs of the Canarian Archipelago (eastern Atlantic). Hydrodynamic experiments were carried out to quantify the resistance to flow-induced dislodgement in these three species. We tested the model that different morphology can result in habitat partitioning among these sea urchins. Abundances of D. antillarum increased with depth. In contrast, A. lixula and P. lividus showed the opposite zonation pattern, coexisting in high abundances in the shallowest depths (<5 m), and occurring in low densities in the deepest part of reefs (>7 m). Both A. lixula and P. lividus had greater adhesion-surface to body-height ratios than D. antillarum. Similarly, A. lixula and P. lividus showed a greater ability to resist flow-induced dislodgement compared with D. antillarum. The mean “velocity of dislodgement” was 300% and 50% greater for A. lixula and P. lividus, respectively, relative to D. antillarum, for any particular size. As a result, A. lixula and P. lividus are better fitted to life in high-flow environments than D. antillarum. We conclude that the risk of dislodgement by water motion likely play a relevant role in the vertical distribution patterns of these sea urchins in the eastern Atlantic.     

Three Kings Ridge: a west-facing arc

The Three Kings Ridge has been described as a remnant arc or an east-facing arc on the western side of the South Fiji Basin under which symmetric South Fiji Basin magnetic anomaly lineations have been lost. We find evidence of neither arc-trench morphology on the eastern flank of the ridge nor collision tectonism within the adjacent South Fiji Basin that might have obliterated it. We believe there is room for the missing magnetic lineations within the South Fiji Basin and we recognize the distinctive island-arc morphology characteristic of a west-facing arc on the western flank of the Three Kings Ridge. Our interpretation requires that arc volcanism postdated formation of much of the South Fiji Basin and that oceanic lithosphere from the adjacent Norfolk Basin must have been subducted beneath the west-facing Three Kings Arc.     

Organo- and lithofacies of glacial-interglacial deposits in the Norwegian-Greenland Sea: Responses to paleoceanographic and paleoclimatic changes

Based on a multiparameter approach a combined litho- and organofacies concept was developed for glacial and interglacial sediment sections along an E-W transect through the central part of the Norwegian-Greenland Sea (NGS).

Modern and past surface water regimes are clearly displayed by specific litho- and organofacies patterns. Interglacial conditions reveal specific Atlantic water associated lithofacies (A and B3) in the eastern and central sector of the Norwegian-Greenland Sea (NGS). Corresponding interglacial organofacies in general are not well correlated to lithofacies due to strong diagenetic degradation of labile, e.g. autochthonous organic matter (OM). While in near-surface sediments a marine-dominated organofacies (I-1) is preserved under Atlantic water masses, this correlation is not evident for lower Holocene and Isotope Stage 5 deposits. However, during Isotopic Event 5.5.1 increased proportions of marine OM are recorded in a high accumulating core on the Vøring Plateau. Glaciomarine background lithofacies (B and C) indicate minor input of ice rafted debris (IRD) and seasonal variable sea-ice cover. Corresponding organofacies (II-1, non-oxidized and II-2, oxidized) are dominated by allochthonous OM. Most spectacular are glacial diamictons (Lithofacies E and F) evidencing short-term sediment pulses due to a sudden disintegration of far advanced tide water ice margins on the outer shelves. These diamictons bear specific organofacies (III-1 and III-2) with a clear predominance of terrigenous and reworked OM.

Some of the diamictons seem to occur contemporaneous with the so called “Heinrich-layers” H1 and H2, suggesting a common trigger-mechanism for the almost simultaneous disintegration of huge continental ice masses along the shelves of North America and the eastern margin of the NGS.

Application of a combined organo- and lithofacies concept provides essential information on spatial and temporal variations of water mass characteristics, the oceanic effects of ice sheet dynamics and circulation models.     

False waves in wave records

A methodology to define discrete waves from free sea surface elevation time series is presented. The method allows an objective discrimination of false waves among small waves, avoiding the use of arbitrary criteria associated with zero-up-crossing, zero-down-crossing, or other definitions. The method uses the Hilbert Transform and the representation of the time series in the complex plane. A discrete wave corresponds to a 2π phase-advance in the complex plane. The waves between zero crossings which do not show 2π phase advance are considered false waves. Wave rider buoy records, measured off the west coast of Portugal, were employed in assessing some of the statistical implications of this methodology.