Harmonic generation past a submerged porous step

Experiments were conducted in a wave flume to study the differences between harmonic evolution of monochromatic waves as they propagate over a submerged impermeable or porous step under non-breaking conditions. Results are used as a preliminary analysis to establish some engineering design criteria on harmonic generation on submerged porous structures. The root-mean-squared wave height evolution is also studied and compared to linear models as a first approximation. It is shown that porous structure increases the effective relative depth and decreases the relative wave height, resulting in a lower Ursell number and a lower chance to generate harmonics. The effective water depth over a step as defined in the paper, provides information to evaluate the potential harmonic generation.     

Data assimilation for a coastal area morphodynamic model: Morecambe Bay

This paper investigates the use of data assimilation in coastal area morphodynamic modelling using Morecambe Bay as a study site. A simple model of the bay has been enhanced with a data assimilation scheme to better predict large-scale changes in bathymetry observed in the bay over a 3-year period. The 2DH decoupled morphodynamic model developed for the work is described, as is the optimal interpolation scheme used to assimilate waterline observations into the model run. Each waterline was acquired from a SAR satellite image and is essentially a contour of the bathymetry at some level within the inter-tidal zone of the bay. For model parameters calibrated against validation observations, model performance is good, even without data assimilation. However the use of data assimilation successfully compensates for a particular failing of the model, and helps to keep the model bathymetry on track. It also improves the ability of the model to predict future bathymetry. Although the benefits of data assimilation are demonstrated using waterline observations, any observations of morphology could potentially be used. These results suggest that data assimilation should be considered for use in future coastal area morphodynamic models.     

Bathymetric segregation of sea urchins on reefs of the Canarian Archipelago: Role of flow-induced forces

We examined whether adults of three species of sea urchins species (Diadema antillarum, Arbacia lixula, and Paracentrotus lividus) exhibit a consistent depth-dependent partitioning pattern on rocky reefs of the Canarian Archipelago (eastern Atlantic). Hydrodynamic experiments were carried out to quantify the resistance to flow-induced dislodgement in these three species. We tested the model that different morphology can result in habitat partitioning among these sea urchins. Abundances of D. antillarum increased with depth. In contrast, A. lixula and P. lividus showed the opposite zonation pattern, coexisting in high abundances in the shallowest depths (<5 m), and occurring in low densities in the deepest part of reefs (>7 m). Both A. lixula and P. lividus had greater adhesion-surface to body-height ratios than D. antillarum. Similarly, A. lixula and P. lividus showed a greater ability to resist flow-induced dislodgement compared with D. antillarum. The mean “velocity of dislodgement” was 300% and 50% greater for A. lixula and P. lividus, respectively, relative to D. antillarum, for any particular size. As a result, A. lixula and P. lividus are better fitted to life in high-flow environments than D. antillarum. We conclude that the risk of dislodgement by water motion likely play a relevant role in the vertical distribution patterns of these sea urchins in the eastern Atlantic.     

A shipborne magnetic survey in Hudson Bay

A marine magnetic total-field survey of Hudson Bay was conducted from 1975 to 1978. Approximately 62 000 line-km of data, or 35 000 five-minute averages, were acquired. The data were corrected for secular variation by means of a polynomial in latitude, longitude, and time, first fitted to annual mean differences from nine observatories and then integrated over time. The data were corrected for diurnal and transient variations by means of a linear interpolation, over geomagnetic latitude, of running hourly mean values from two neighbouring magnetic stations (numbering seven in all). Crossover differences are analysed in terms of a mixture of normal distributions resulting from the intermittent transient variations, and indicate the effectiveness of the corrections. The variance of the data is reduced, as a result of the corrections, by 87% during quiet periods and by 53% during disturbed periods, the weighted variance being reduced by 66%. Navigational accuracy is estimated, from a novel method utilizing crossover differences and field gradients, to be approximately 300 m. Anomalies are presented in profile form, and discussed briefly.Contribution from the Earth Physics Branch No. 973.     

A low level supplementary heating system for free divers

A simple and effective method of heating divers in extreme cold water has been developed. The local heating concept utilizes a uniformly distributed granular mixture of magnesium and iron particles packed in small sachets. Upon activation by sea water, the two metal mixture behaves as a multitude of short-circuited electrolytic cells, producing thermal energy rather than electrical energy. The 45 mm-square sachets may be placed where heating is required on the diver's body, thus giving rise to the term “local heating”, obviously, the heating system requires no pumping device, or distribution network. Heating rate and duration of output of the sachets are controlled by particle size, and mixture ratio of the constituent Mg and Fe particles.This paper described the development, testing and performance of the heating sachets. Results of live tests in different dive situations are also presented and discussed.     

Chemical leaching and specific surface area measurements of marine sediments in the evaluation of mercury contamination near cinnabar deposits

This paper investigates mercury contamination in recent marine sediment of the Tyrrhenian continental shelf near the mouths of three rivers draining an area with cinnabar deposits (M. Amiata, Italy). By means of chemical leaching, two fractions of the total mercury were distinguished: a ‘non-leachable’ fraction, consisting of mercury held in relatively stable forms and a ‘leachable’ fraction, composed of forms that are more weakly bound to the sediments. The two Hg fractions are correlated to the organic matter content, the distribution of which is strictly dependent on the sediment surface area.In order to eliminate the effects of grain size variations among the samples, the Hg concentrations were normalized to the unit of surface area (ng/m²). Following this procedure, the ‘non-leachable’ Hg was found to be concentrated mostly in a belt along the coast, while the ‘leachable’ Hg fraction was shown to accumulate largely in the zones with high depositional dynamics near the mouths of the rivers.Hypotheses to account for the discrepancy between the low concentrations of ‘leachable’ Hg in the sediment of the outer continental shelf and the high concentrations in the fauna of the same area, reported in previous papers, are presented.     

Organo- and lithofacies of glacial-interglacial deposits in the Norwegian-Greenland Sea: Responses to paleoceanographic and paleoclimatic changes

Based on a multiparameter approach a combined litho- and organofacies concept was developed for glacial and interglacial sediment sections along an E-W transect through the central part of the Norwegian-Greenland Sea (NGS).

Modern and past surface water regimes are clearly displayed by specific litho- and organofacies patterns. Interglacial conditions reveal specific Atlantic water associated lithofacies (A and B3) in the eastern and central sector of the Norwegian-Greenland Sea (NGS). Corresponding interglacial organofacies in general are not well correlated to lithofacies due to strong diagenetic degradation of labile, e.g. autochthonous organic matter (OM). While in near-surface sediments a marine-dominated organofacies (I-1) is preserved under Atlantic water masses, this correlation is not evident for lower Holocene and Isotope Stage 5 deposits. However, during Isotopic Event 5.5.1 increased proportions of marine OM are recorded in a high accumulating core on the Vøring Plateau. Glaciomarine background lithofacies (B and C) indicate minor input of ice rafted debris (IRD) and seasonal variable sea-ice cover. Corresponding organofacies (II-1, non-oxidized and II-2, oxidized) are dominated by allochthonous OM. Most spectacular are glacial diamictons (Lithofacies E and F) evidencing short-term sediment pulses due to a sudden disintegration of far advanced tide water ice margins on the outer shelves. These diamictons bear specific organofacies (III-1 and III-2) with a clear predominance of terrigenous and reworked OM.

Some of the diamictons seem to occur contemporaneous with the so called “Heinrich-layers” H1 and H2, suggesting a common trigger-mechanism for the almost simultaneous disintegration of huge continental ice masses along the shelves of North America and the eastern margin of the NGS.

Application of a combined organo- and lithofacies concept provides essential information on spatial and temporal variations of water mass characteristics, the oceanic effects of ice sheet dynamics and circulation models.     

Tank wall effects on broadside current forces on barge models

Three different barge sizes were tested in uniform current in a tank of limited width. One of the barges was tested with and without bilge keels. Tests were conducted in both deep and shallow water. The barges were placed broadside to the current flow and the lateral forces on the barges were measured. The effect of the tank walls on these forces is clearly shown.     

False waves in wave records

A methodology to define discrete waves from free sea surface elevation time series is presented. The method allows an objective discrimination of false waves among small waves, avoiding the use of arbitrary criteria associated with zero-up-crossing, zero-down-crossing, or other definitions. The method uses the Hilbert Transform and the representation of the time series in the complex plane. A discrete wave corresponds to a 2π phase-advance in the complex plane. The waves between zero crossings which do not show 2π phase advance are considered false waves. Wave rider buoy records, measured off the west coast of Portugal, were employed in assessing some of the statistical implications of this methodology.