A phase-resolving cross shore sediment transport model for beach profile evolution

A phase-resolving wave transformation module is combined with an intra-wave sediment transport module to calculate the on-/offshore sediment transport rates. The wave module is based on the Boussinesq equations extended into the surf zone. The vertical variation of the mean undertow and the intra-wave sediment concentrations are calculated. The net sediment transport rates are calculated, and the equation for conservation of sediment is solved to predict the beach profile evolution. The results of the present paper showed that the undertow contribution to the sediment transport rates is not dominating in all parts of the surf zone, even for eroding beaches, suggesting that other contributions should not be neglected. The present model also showed that for the same offshore wave energy the time series of the oscillatory motion is important and that the effect of wave groups cannot be disregarded.     

An overview and general results of the Lopez island OBS experiment

The purpose of the experiment was to determine the effects of coupling and bottom currents on ocean bottom seismometers. Twelve operational OBSs, three specially designed three-component systems, and a hydrophone were compared with each other. Unlike seismometers placed on hard rock at land stations, ocean bottom seismometers can be affected by soft sediments (which act as lossy mechanical springs) and by buoyancy. Coupling through soft sediments can modify the response to ground motion much as a low pass filter does, and high buoyancy tends to counteract this effect. These effects are observed in the Lopez data, which consist of signals from mechanical transient tests, cap shots, airgun pulses, and general background noise. The modification of response is pronounced for some instruments and barely noticeable in others. Instruments that stand high in the water relative to their base width tend to be susceptible to rocking motion that shows up as a mechanical cross coupling between horizontal and vertical motion. Correlation of Lopez results with coupling theory suggests that it is possible to design ocean bottom seismometers that will couple well to any sediment. Current levels at the Lopez site (<5 cm s^-1) were too small to produce noticeable effect on any of the instruments; however, the same design criteria that will minimize coupling problems will also lessen problems caused by ocean currents.Hawaii Institute of Geophysics Contribution No. 1171.     

The use of controlled experimental ecosystems: A review

During the past 20 years, the controlled experimental ecosystem has found wide-spread use in marine sciences. Uses have included the study of natural ecology, environmental pollution and computer model analysis. In all these roles, the experimental ecosystem serves as a model of nature and results can be used to obtain greater insight into the oceanography of the sea. Four different types of experimental apparatus are described, and experimental procedures and results are reviewed and discussed.     

Changes in a rocky shore community: An evaluation of monitoring

The basic aim of this study was to record the changes in the communities on a moderately exposed rocky shore by a programme of repeated non-destructive sampling (‘monitoring’) and to determine the causes of these changes. Possible causative factors were investigated by the combined approach of analysing detailed sea-temperature and meteorological data for the period of the study and establishing manipulative field experiments.Fixed quadrats (2 m by 1 m) at three levels were visited at 6–8 weekly intervals for 30 months and the abundance and spatial pattern of major species assessed. In the ‘High’ quadrat the balance between Fucus spiralis and F. vesiculosus changed, and an outburst of ephemeral algae occurred following a decline in overall canopy cover. In the ‘Mid’ quadrat F. vesiculosus decreased considerably from its initial cover and virtually disappeared by the end of the study. In the ‘Low’ quadrat F. vesiculosus increased from being absent to comprising 20% of the canopy, whilst Semmibalanus (= Balanus) balanoides and ‘understorey’ algae decreased in cover. Actinia equina, Nucella lapillus and Patella vulgata showed marked changes in number at all levels where they occurred.Only certain of these changes could be attributed to the physical environment—most were biologically controlled. For example, manipulative experiments showed that the blooms of ephemeral algae and the decline of Patella in the high-shore quadrat, and the decline of Actinia in the mid-shore quadrat, were due to decreases in the fucoid canopy. These canopy changes were, in turn, the result of biological cycles which are characteristic of these communities. However, even with the support of manipulative experiments, it was not possible to account for (or predict) all of the observed natural changes. The extent of these fluctuations poses a serious obstacle to the recognition of any but very gross pollution-induced effects. The conclusion must be that the monitoring of rocky shores as a means of detecting and measuring pollution is likely to be an unproductive investment of time and resources.     

Influence of stratification and irradiance regime on summer phytoplankton composition in coastal and shelf seas of the British Isles

The effect of interaction between stratification and irradiance regimes on phytoplankton community structure was investigated in three shelf/coastal regions of the British Isles, each of which displayed ranges of vertical stability and light attenuation. Relationships between vertical stability, light penetration and community structure were indicated by the ordination of dominance (assessed using cell volume) of the main phytoplankton phyletic groups—diatoms, dinoflagellates and microflagellates—on a surface defined by a bulk stratification index () and water column depth, scaled by transparency (λh). Diatom- and dinoflagellate-dominated communities occupied distinctly different domains on the - λh surface, diatoms being favoured in well-mixed water columns with high values for λh and dinoflagellates dominating where stratification was strong and λh was low. Microflagellates were not abundant in any of the study areas and showed no clear ordination on the - λh surface. The domain of co-dominance of diatom and dinoflagellates on the - λh surface was narrow with small changes in the irradiance or stratification regime resulting in a switch to diatom or dinoflagellate dominance. It is suggested that loss of non-motile diatom communities in strongly stratified water columns might be a strong selective force in favour of dinoflagel-lates. However, in water columns with intermediate stratification and optical properties, the outcome of competition may be decided by physiological attributes of the two groups with respect to growth in low and fluctuating irradiances.     

PCDD/F and PCB in harbour seals (Phoca vitulina) from British Columbia: response to exposure to pulp mill effluents

Blubber of harbour seals (Phoca vitulina) sampled from the Strait of Georgia, BC, in 1991 and 1992 contained higher concentrations of polychlorinated dibenzo-p-dioxins and furans (PCDD/F) than did samples from Quatsino Sound on western Vancouver Island. The higher proportions of 1,2,3,6,7,8-hexachlorodibenzodioxin and 2,3,7,8-tetrachlorodibenzofuran in the Strait of Georgia samples probably reflect contamination arising from the discharge of effluents from bleached kraft mills. Higher concentrations of non-ortho- and mono-ortho substituted polychlorinated biphenyls were also found in the Strait of Georgia samples, probably as a result of general industrial activity in the region. Principal components analysis showed that residues were distributed differently between males and females. Within males, concentrations of PCDD, PCDF and PCBs appeared to increase with age. Toxic equivalents (TEQ) to 2,3,7,8-tetrachlorodibenzodioxin in the Quatsino Sd. samples were close to the working guidelines for edible fish used by Health Canada; TEQ calculated for the Strait of Georgia samples exceeded these guidelines by up to a factor of five.