Sheet flow and suspension of sand in oscillatory boundary layers

after revisionTime-dependent measurements of flow velocities and sediment concentrations were conducted in a large oscillating water tunnel. The measurements were aimed at the flow and sediment dynamics in and above an oscillatory boundary layer in plane bed and sheet-flow conditions. Two asymmetric waves and one sinusoidal wave were imposed using quartz sand with D₅₀ = 0.21 mm. A new electro-resistance probe with a large resolving power was developed for the measurement of the large sediment concentrations in the sheet-flow layer. The measurements revealed a three layer transport system consisting of a pick-up/deposition layer, an upper sheet flow layer and a suspension layer.In the asymmetric wave cases the total net transport was directed “onshore” and was mainly concentrated in the thin sheet flow layer (< 0.5 cm) at the bed. A small net sediment flux was directed “offhore” in the upper suspension layer. The measured flow velocities, sediment concentrations and sedimenl fluxes showed a good qualitative agreement with the results of a (numerical) 1DV boundary-layer flow and transport model. Although the model did not describe all the observed processes in the sheet-flow and suspension layer, the computational results showed a reasonable agreement with measured net transport rates in a wide range of asymmetric wave conditions.     

The linearisation of three dimensional drag force in random seas with current

A frame invariant linearisation method for three-dimensional drag force in random seas with current is presented. Numerical results are compared with those obtained from a commonly used linearisation method which is based on a non-frame invariant approximation to the drag force. Significant differences are discovered and the present method is found to show closer agreement with computed time histories of the true drag force.     

Dynamics of an elastically moored floating body by the three-dimensional infinite element method

The three-dimensional problem of the dynamics of a moored floating object under the action of regular waves is solved numerically as a boundary value problem by use of the finite-infinite element method. The cross-sectional shape of the floating body and the mooring arrangements may all be arbitrary. The mathematical formulations of the problem and procedures of the numerical method are presented in this paper. A corresponding computer program WALOAD has been developed, which is capable of computing wave forces on fixed and floating structures. Numerical computations using this program could give very accurate results, even though rather coarse meshes were used. The program is easy to use and is readily applicable in many practical situations.     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.     

Effects of taxonomic uncertainty on species diversity indices

As a result of taxonomic uncertainty, generic and higher taxonomic ranks (family, order, class or phylum) are often treated as units in calculating diversity indices, instead of species. In this paper, the errors introduced by such practices are examined for various diversity indices (Shannon - Wiener Index, Maximum Information Index, Evenness, Margalef's Species Richness Index and Hurlbert's Probability of Interspecific Encounter). The use of higher taxonomic ranks may invalidate comparison of diversity indices. In a single study, substantial error and erroneous conclusion may arise, even if consistent practices are adopted.     

Geotechnical aspects of fine-grained mass flow deposits: California Continental Borderland

Seismic reflection profiling demonstrates the importance of mass movement in the north-central California Borderland. Bulk properties of surficial hemipelagic sediments in the Santa Barbara, Santa Cruz, and San Nicolas basins show that different types of mass-transported sediments have different properties, although their general sedimentologic characteristics are very similar. Slump deposits have moderate water contents (48% wet weight basis), high plasticity indices (46%), and moderate activities (1.6). For debris flows these values are low: 28%, 5%, and 0.3, respectively, and for other types (liquefied flow, mudflows, and turbidities) the values are high: 54 to 63%, 49 to 58%, and 1.2 to 1.5, respectively.     

Using ocean ambient noise for array self-localization and self-synchronization

Estimates of the travel times between the elements of a bottom hydrophone array can be extracted from the time-averaged ambient noise cross-correlation function (NCF). This is confirmed using 11-min-long data blocks of ambient noise recordings that were collected in May 1995 near the southern California coast at an average depth of 21 m in the 150-700 Hz frequency range. Coherent horizontal wavefronts emerging from the time derivative of the NCF are obtained across the array's aperture and are related to the direct arrival time of the time-domain Green's function (TDGF). These coherent wavefronts are used for array element self-localization (AESL) and array element self-synchronization (AESS). The estimated array element locations are used to beamform on a towed source.     

Degradation in Cemented Marine Clay Subjected to Cyclic Compressive Loading

The influence of cyclic loading on the strength and deformation behavior of cemented marine clay has been studied. This marine clay is of recent Pleistocene origin and deposited in a shallow water marine environment. Open pits were dug in sheeted enclosures and from these pits, undisturbed samples were taken for strength testing. A series of standard triaxial shear tests and stress controlled one-way cyclic load tests were conducted at consolidation stress ranges below and above the preconsolidation pressure. For the stress levels below the preconsolidation pressure, the cyclic loading has brought about the collapse of the cementation bond through an increase in strains, and at higher pressure ranges, the soil behaves like typical soft clay. This experiment studied the rate of development of strain and pore water pressure and shows that rate is a function of number of cycles, applied stress, and stress history. In addition, soil degradation during cyclic loading is studied in terms of Degradation Index. Attempt has been made to predict stain, pore water pressure, and degradation index through an empirical model.     

Null broadening with snapshot-deficient covariance matrices in passive sonar

Adaptive-array beamforming achieves high resolution and sidelobe suppression by producing sharp s in the adaptive beampattern. Large-aperture sonar arrays with many elements have small resolution cells; interferers may move through many resolution cells in the time required for accumulating a full-rank sample covariance matrix. This leads to "snapshot-deficient" processing. In this paper, the -broadening technique originally developed for an ideal stationary problem is extended to the snapshot-deficient problem combined with white-noise constraint (WNC) adaptive processing. Null broadening allows the strong interferers to move through resolution cells and increases the number of degrees of freedom, thereby improving the detection of weak stationary signals.