Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.     

The behaviour of 59Fe in marine microhabitat

Under the artificial condition the 59Fe morphology in sea water, its concentration in sediment and phytoplankton, its distribution and metabolism in tissue organs of marine animals were studied. The results showed that the morphology of 59Fe was in a particulate state in sea water. The adsorption rule of 59Fe by three kinds of sediments was similar. The concentration ability of 59Fe by phytoplankton was very strong. The critical concentration organs of S9Fe by marine animals were viscera. The gross radioactivity of 59Fe was mainly concentrated in protein. The concentration factor of 59Fe by DNA was the highest one. After excretion experiment, 59Fe of all the tissue organs was not detected. Small part of59Fe remained in the organic acid and protein state. There was a redistribution process in sediment for59Fe.     

High-resolution measurements of chromophoric dissolved organic matter in the Mississippi and Atchafalaya River plume regions

Chromophoric dissolved organic matter (CDOM) was measured in the spring and summer in the northern Gulf of Mexico with the ECOShuttle, a towed, instrumented, undulating vehicle. A submersible pump mounted on the vehicle supplied continuously flowing, uncontaminated seawater to online instruments in the shipboard laboratory and allowed discrete samples to be taken for further analysis. CDOM in the northern Gulf of Mexico was dominated by freshwater inputs from the Mississippi River through the Birdfoot region and to the west by discharge from the Atchafalaya River. CDOM was more extensively dispersed in the high-flow period in the spring but in both time periods was limited by stratification to the upper 12 m or so. Thin, subsurface CDOM maxima were observed below the plume during the highly stratified summer period but were absent in the spring. However, there was evidence of significant in situ biological production of CDOM in both seasons.The Mississippi River freshwater end member was similar in spring and summer, while the Atchafalaya end member was significantly higher in the spring. In both time periods, the Atchafalaya was significantly higher in CDOM and dissolved organic carbon (DOC) than the Mississippi presumably due to local production and exchange within the coastal wetlands along the lower Atchafalaya which are absent along the lower Mississippi. Nearshore waters may also have higher CDOM due to outwelling from coastal wetlands. High-resolution measurements allow the differentiation of various water masses and are indicative of rapidly varying (days to weeks) source waters. Highly dynamic but conservative mixing between various freshwater and marine end members apparently dominates CDOM distributions in the area with significant in situ biological inputs (bacterial degradation of phytoplankton detritus), evidence of flocculation, and minor photobleaching effects also observed. It is clear that high-resolution measurements and adaptive sampling strategies allow a more detailed examination of the processes that control CDOM distributions in river-dominated systems.     

A late Pliocene diatom Ge/Si record from the Southeast Atlantic

As a result of both culture and sediment core studies, the ratio of germanium (Ge) to silicon (Si) in diatom shells has been proposed as a proxy for monitoring whole-ocean changes in seawater Ge/Si, a ratio affected by changes in continental weathering. However, because of the difficulties of extracting and cleaning diatom frustules from deep-sea sediments, only samples from highly pure diatom oozes in the Antarctic region have been previously analyzed. Here we present data on diatom Ge/Si ratios, (Ge/Si)_opal, for the time interval between 3.1 and 1.9 Ma from a mid-latitude, coastal upwelling area where significant terrigenous sediment input complicated the sample processing and analyses. In general, our (Ge/Si)_opal values show the same decreasing trend after 2.6 Ma than previously measured in Antarctic sediments (Shemesh et al., 1989. Paleoceanography 4, 221–231), but with a noisier background that may reflect the local imprint of proximal continental input superimposed upon global changes in the ocean reservoir. The time of initiation of large-scale North Hemisphere glaciation at 2.6 Ma is characterized by a declining pattern of diatom Ge/Si ratios, which could have resulted from a global increase in the input of riverine Si due to enhanced silica weathering and/or equatorward (northward) intrusions of subantarctic waters enriched in silica. High (Ge/Si)_opal ratios are associated with high opal contents from the same sediment samples and with warm climate as indicated by depleted benthic foraminiferal δ¹⁸O values from the North and Equatorial Atlantic. Cold periods signified by enriched benthic δ¹⁸O values, on the contrary, are associated with lower (Ge/Si)_opal ratios. We interpret diatom Ge/Si values to reflect the prevailing weathering state on the continents, with greater chemical weathering during warm and wet periods of the Pliocene and less during cooler and drier intervals.     

外差激光雷达测量水体布里渊散射可行性研究

该文分析外差激光雷达测量水体布里渊散射的可行性。借助测量水体布里渊散射的频移 ,可得到水体声速或温度。文中利用两条 12 7I2 吸收线锁定激光输出频率 ,产生稳定的频差约为7.5 GHz发射激光和激光本振。通过对 12 7I2 吸收线稳定度、激光频率稳定度、系统信噪比和反演精度的分析和计算机模拟 ,得出水体深度 2 5 m以内水体布里渊散射频移的测量误差可以控制在2 .5 MHz以内 ,达到水中声速 0 .6 m/ s或温度 0 .1℃的测量精度。     

国外海洋机器人技术发展动态

世界海洋机器人随着海洋事业的发展和军事上的需要正在迅猛发展,一批智能化的用途广泛的海洋机器人,如“深潜万米机器人”、“机器鱼”、“机器龙虾”、“六足蟹”、水下“飞机”和深海“呼吸器”等,相继研制成功,尚在研制中的机器人还有“机器金枪鱼”和“机器蛇”。     

6-O-羧甲基壳多糖的细胞毒性效应研究

采用溶血试验和细胞毒性试验研究6 -O-羧甲基壳多糖的细胞毒性效应,结果表明：1% 浓度的6-O-羧甲基壳多糖对红细胞溶 血率小于5%,说明该材料无溶血现象。以手术缝合线和500μg/mL的苯酚为对照研究不同分 子量的6-O-羧甲基壳多糖分别在1000μg/mL和2000μg/mL浓度下对大白鼠皮肤成纤维细胞 生长的影响,经过2d,4d,7d细胞培养,细胞增殖率均大于100%,说明该材料对成纤维细胞 无毒性效应且对大白鼠皮肤成纤维细胞有促进生长的作用,分子量越小促生长作用越强,随 着培养时间延长促生长作用亦增强。此研究在一定程度上证明,6-O-羧甲基壳多糖作为医 用生物材料在细胞毒性方面是安全的。     

天然矿泉水特殊组分的地球化学初步研究

本文以ＧＢ８５３７－８７《饮用天然矿泉水国家标准》为依据，从理论上阐述了天然矿泉水特殊组分（锂、氡、锶、铁、锌、溴、氟、碘、钼、偏硅酸、偏硼酸、硒、二氧化碳）的物理化学性质，分布、岍存形式及迁移规律，以便对我国矿泉水勘察和开发能有所裨益。     

An alternative approach to the structural motion analysis of wedge-beam offshore structures supporting a load

For convenience of dynamic analysis, some offshore structures such as fixed-type platforms are often modeled as the wedge beams supporting tip lumped masses. It is well-known that, due to the effect of the surrounding water, the natural frequencies of a beam in air (or dry beam) are different from those of the same beam immersed in water (or wet beam). However, if the natural frequencies and the associated mode shapes of a dry beam are calculated by taking account of the “added mass” for the immersed beam, then the last natural frequencies and mode shapes will be equal to the corresponding ones of the wet beam. Based on the last concept, the closed form solutions for natural frequencies and the associated mode shapes of the dry beam were determined first, then the partial differential equation of motion for the wet beam was transformed into a matrix equation by using the expansion theorem and the foregoing closed form solutions of free vibration responses for the dry beam. Solving the last matrix equation will give the required natural frequencies and the associated mode shapes of the wet beam. The formulation of this paper is available for the fully or partially immersed double tapered beams with either circular, square or rectangular cross-sections. The taper ratio for width and that for depth may be equal or unequal. The numerical results of this paper were compared with the existing results or the finite-element-method results and good agreement was achieved.     

Optimum design of filament-wound multilayer-sandwich submersible pressure hulls

Submersible pressure hulls with fiber-reinforced multilayer-sandwich constructions have been developed in recent years as substitutes for classical metallic ring-stiffened pressure hulls. This study aims to optimize the design of filament-wound multilayer-sandwich submersible pressure hulls, taking into consideration the shell buckling strength constraint, the angle-ply laminated facing failure strength constraint and the low-density isotropic core yielding strength constraint under hydrostatic pressure using the hybrid genetic algorithm (HGA). The thickness of the facing, the thickness of the core layer, the orientation angle of the fibers in the facings and the shear modulus of the core material are taken as design variables. A sensitivity analysis is performed to study the effects of the operational depths and the hull shell geometry parameter, the length-to-diameter ratio (L/D), on the optimal design of filament-wound multilayer-sandwich submersible pressure hulls with graphite/epoxy, glass/epoxy and boron/epoxy composite facings. The results reveal that the optimal weight of various sandwich pressure hulls increases linearly with the operational depth, but it is almost unchanged as the geometry paramter. Furthermore, Graphite/Epoxy is the best choice for the material of the facings in a light-weight design. With reference to wall design, Boron/Epoxy is the best choice for the material of the facing at shallow depths, but Graphite/Epoxy is the best choice at extreme depths. Results of this study provide a valuable reference for designers of underwater vehicles.