On the adequacy of second-order models to predict abnormal waves

The paper is intended to extend the investigations about the nature of abnormal waves that have been reported in the work of Guedes Soares et al. (Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea states. Applied Ocean Research 25, [337–344]). The same dataset gathered at the oil platform North Alwyn in the North Sea during the November storm in 1997 is used along with the time series from the Draupner platform, in which an abnormal wave occurred. The data are reanalyzed from the viewpoint of the applicability of second-order models to fit large waves. The observed results confirm that the second-order approximation is not adequate to describe highly asymmetric and abnormal waves.     

The impact of wave loads and pore-water pressure generation on initiation of sediment transport

The build-up of pore-water pressure by waves can lead to sediment liquefaction and subsequent transport by traction currents. This process was investigated by measuring pore-water pressures both in a field experiment and laboratory wave tank tests. Liquefaction was observed in the wave tank tests. The results suggest that sand is less susceptible than silts to wave-induced liquefaction because of the tendency to partially dissipate pore-water pressures. However, previous studies have determined that pore-water pressures must approach liquefaction before current velocities necessary to initiate transport are reduced. Once liquefaction has occurred more sediment can be transported.     

Wavelet analysis of bathymetric sidescan sonar data for the classification of seafloor sediments in Hopvågen Bay - Norway

In this paper we examine the use of bathymetric sidescan sonar for automatic classification of seabed sediments. Bathymetric sidescan sonar, here implemented through a small receiver array, retains the advantage of sidescan in speed through illuminating large swaths, but also enables the data gathered to be located spatially. The spatial location allows the image intensity to be corrected for depth and insonification angle, thus improving the use of the sonar for identifying changes in seafloor sediment. In this paper we investigate automatic tools for seabed recognition, using wavelets to analyse the image of Hopvågen Bay in Norway. We use the back-propagation elimination algorithm to determine the most significant wavelet features for discrimination. We show that the features selected present good agreement with the grab sample results in the survey under study and can be used in a classifier to discriminate between different seabed sediments.     

Beginning integrated coastal management efforts in Madagascar

Integrated coastal management (ICM) is an emerging approach in East Africa for the solution of various coastal issues. This paper is intended to provide an update on the current practical aspects concerning the ICM process and related policies and strategies in Madagascar. Efforts are being made in Madagascar for the mutual integration of numerous coastal projects and activities within the Environment Program of the National Environmental Action Plan. The foundations for an ICM program, built during an ICM workshop, which took place at the end of 1996 upon existing activities, are being expanded presently. These developments concern, above all, the institutional aspects related to the formulation of an ICM program. Therefore, the actual situation sees an overgrowing collaboration of the national and international agencies involved in the implementation of coastal projects, in an expandingly integrating way, within an institutional framework that grows progressively stronger. The case of Madagascar suggests reflections on how ICM can mitigate potential sectoral conflicts as well as on, how the sometimes complex nature of the social and cultural issues may influence the development of an ICM program. The need for monitoring ICM is stressed and the role of outside partners clarified.     

Modified mild slope equation and open boundary conditions

A numerical model to compute wave field is developed. It is based on the Berkhoff diffraction-refraction equation, in which an energy dissipation term is added, to take into account the breaking and the bottom friction phenomena. The energy dissipation function, by breaking and by bottom friction, is introduced in the Berkhoff equation to obtain a new equation of propagation.The resolution is done with the hybrid finite element method, where lagrangians elements are used.     

Effects of benthic biology on bottom boundary layer processes, Dry Tortugas Bank, Florida Keys

 An instrumented tetrapod was deployed for three weeks on the Dry Tortugas Bank at a depth of 26 m in February 1995. Bottom roughness was dominated by shrimp burrows and worm mounds with rms roughness amplitudes ranging from 0.47 to 1.75 cm. Logarithmic velocity profiles show apparent total roughness heights ranging from 0.30 to 1.45 cm, values consistent with observed biological roughness. The bed sediments were weakly bound by an algal crust at the sediment–water interface. When this bound layer was scraped away by a mooring that was accidentally dragged, sharp-crested wave-induced ripples appeared within the resulting swath. We conclude that physically induced roughness is biologically suppressed, but if dominant, would be significantly higher than the prevailing biological roughness.     

Exchange flow of oil and sea-water in a ruptured submarine pipeline

The rupture of a submarine oil pipeline starts various mechanisms leading to an oil spill. Among these mechanisms the leakage of oil driven by the difference in specific gravities of oil and sea-water is difficult to estimate. A simple mathematical model has been developed and laboratory experiments have been carried out to obtain an insight into the density-driven exchange flow and to determine the leak rate. The mathematical model is predictive and takes account of the effects of friction, inclination of the pipeline, and inertia of the fluid. The experiments were done in a horizontal model pipeline. Theoretical and experimental results are in satisfactory agreement.     

3,4-benzopyrene and perylene in mussels, Mytilus sp., from the Laguna Veneta,North-East Italy

From July, 1975 to November, 1976 mussels from the Laguna Veneta, north-east Italy, and the adjacent Adriatic Sea were collected bimonthly at ten stations and analysed for 3,4-benzopyrene (BaP) and perylene (Pe) content. Mean concentrations were in the range 12·0–135·1 μg/kg dry weight for BaP and 1·5–16·9 μg/kg for Pe, but values as high as 327 μg/kg for BaP and 71 μg/kg for Pe have been measured. The distribution of BaP and Pe closely matches previous results on petroleum hydrocarbon contamination in mussels from this area and indicates that the major portion of BaP and Pe in these bivalves is due principally to human activities.